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Post by razmoo on May 10, 2011 3:28:34 GMT -5
:sos:
i recently bought a Yup relatively cheap and have done some mods to it.
replaced the restricted boss, main jet #90, free flow filter, technigas next r exhaust and 5.5g rollers.
i bought a set of torque & clutch springs (1000, 1500, 2000 rpm) and was wondering what ones i should use.
on google, it seems people are using 1000 or 1500 springs with the next r exhaust.
i would of changed the springs today (when i changed the rollers) but i couldn't get the darned nut off the clutch.
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Post by 90GTVert on May 10, 2011 5:48:09 GMT -5
Start out with the 1,000RPM and if it doesn't rev as high as you'd like move up to the next one.
If you don't have a vice it's probably a 38mm/1.5" socket that's needed. An impact gun is the easiest way to remove it.
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Post by razmoo on May 10, 2011 6:05:55 GMT -5
ah ok thanks!
i actually meant the clutch bell. its super tight.. i guess factory tight.
i might do it like this:
ill do it like the video you posted when i get up to it.
and did you mean 1000 for both types of springs (clucth and torque) . i'm not really sure how both types of springs work together/with the whole setup, etc.
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Post by 90GTVert on May 10, 2011 6:51:30 GMT -5
Sorry, 1000RPM for the contra. Maybe 1500 or 2000 for the clutch springs.
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Post by reveeen on May 10, 2011 7:33:15 GMT -5
I kinda set things up a bit different here............
I use the clutch springs to match the pipe. When you install a pipe the low down power disappears, so you want to raise the engagement RPM (with heavier springs). (I just usually install the heaviest)
The contra (or take-up) spring has to be heavy (or strong) enough to prevent belt slippage. If your belt is slipping you will see black marks on the pulley faces. On a relatively stock engine (internally), I leave the stock spring in there, unless I see black marks (then I would only install the 1000rpm spring.....1st heavier). Before you bolt the assembly together (while installing the spring) make sure the sliding surfaces are clean and the spring you are installing doesn't bind (if it binds, inside, or outside, it isn't EVER going to work properly).
Roller weights have to be heavy enough to counteract the force of the take-up spring. So, the stronger the take-up spring the heavier the rollers. On a 2 cycle with a stock rear spring I have been as light as 3.5g and as heavy as 4g. A 1st heavier (1000RPM) I would be running 4.5g-5g rollers.
This is all dependent on bike/rider weight and final drive ratio. What works for me might not work for you, but might give you a starting point.
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Post by 90GTVert on May 10, 2011 7:39:38 GMT -5
I agree with reveen. That's the right way to set it up. It's not part swapping, it's tuning. You need to make the proper changes for your scoot and your preferences. I was just trying to give you ideas since it sounded like you just wanted to swap in some stuff and see what happened. If you don't really understand the whole CVT just yet, and even once you do, it's best to do one change at a time so you can clearly see what is affected by each change.
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Post by reveeen on May 10, 2011 8:37:13 GMT -5
This stuff is kinda important. 4HP, or 20HP, if you can't get it to the ground in a controlled fashion neither will do you much good.
I *think* you have to be a pretty slick engine tuner to have to change the contra (take-up) spring on a 50cc motor. The clutch springs you should be able to "get" through the holes with needle nose pliers.
So, what I would do for now is:
Change the clutch springs, try some 3.5-4g rollers, and check for black marks on the variator (front pulley) faces (in about a week).
(not everyone has a workshop, a work bench, a vise, a 1 1/2 socket etc. etc)
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Post by razmoo on May 10, 2011 9:14:39 GMT -5
ah cool thanks guys. yeh ive never tuned anything before but hope to learn some.
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Post by Fox on May 10, 2011 10:15:04 GMT -5
Something missing here is the need for an impact wrench to loosen/tighten the clutch bell nut. It's a lot easier than whacking a wrench with a hammer which could round off the nut. The impact I use is like the one in the link below. It's made for changing car tires on the road. It uses a 12 volt source so the scooter's battery will run it or a car cigarette lighter socket. It's great for removing the flywheel, variator, clutch and rear wheel lug nut on your scooter. It winds up and then WHACK! The sockets it comes with are cheap and will crack. You can get good impact sockets that won't crack in sets or individually. You should be able to find one of them locally at an auto supply or a tool outlet. They are relatively cheap and a must have for anyone who wants to service their own scooter. cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=380338697043I think this guy here has a good idea as well: |
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Post by razmoo on May 11, 2011 2:38:32 GMT -5
ive seen those 12v wrenches on ebay, but was a bit skeptical as to how much power it would have.
but if you think it would do the job, i might get one. cheers.
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Post by reveeen on May 11, 2011 4:09:56 GMT -5
Me too! I went this way: www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/drills/12-electric-impact-wrench-68099.htmlNor specifically that way, but I bought a Chinese no-name, in a box, with a handful of sockets for $40. *you must be VERY CAREFUL* using an impact tool of ANY kind on these nuts (they are supposed to be made of softer material than the shafts they bolt to, but that is no guarantee that you will not ruin a crankshaft/transmission input shaft by over tightening with an impact gun) far, far, better to make these nuts "not so tight" using locktite to keep them there, than to strip the threads on these shafts (cheaper too!). The threads are 10mm X1 (just in case you have to buy a die to clean up a "problem"). |
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Post by Fox on May 11, 2011 8:01:07 GMT -5
ive seen those 12v wrenches on ebay, but was a bit skeptical as to how much power it would have. but if you think it would do the job, i might get one. cheers. Yeah it's powerful enough to loosen any bolt on the scooter. Sometimes it takes a few whacks but it'll get the job done. I hit the nuts 5-10 times when tightening depending on the nut. They hit a lot harder when hooked to a car battery which is why I like to use the scooter's battery. Less chance of stripping off a nut. I've had mine for a few years now and it still works good. I carry it in the work van all the time for flat tires. |
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Post by razmoo on May 21, 2011 7:31:50 GMT -5
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Post by razmoo on Jun 1, 2011 21:30:46 GMT -5
Just to let anyone interested know, I installed 5g rollers and a 1000rpm contra spring last night and its running sweet now!!
the flat spot i was having, might of been due to stale fuel or something. seems to be gone if i regularly ride (its winter atm).
so atm my setup is: 5g rollers, 1000rpm contra spring, 2000rpm clutch springs, 90 main jet, technigas next r exhaust & K&N style air filter.
thanks for everyones help and all the articles in the tech section!!
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Post by 90GTVert on Jun 2, 2011 7:53:12 GMT -5
Good news. Thanks for the update.
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