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Post by yongvx50 on Oct 7, 2014 14:35:18 GMT -5
Sorry in advance for the long post that I know that this is going to be and thanks for any advice you guys and gals can provide. This is my first scooter though I have owned cycles and 3 wheelers in the past but this is my first 2T of any kind so bare that in mind when explaining things please. Now for the background information on the scooter. I am disabled and fixing to move into town so I will be needing transport for short, quick trips to the store and the doctor from my soon to be new apartment. My sisters ex-boyfriend bought a new scooter and owed her some money so he gave her the scooter which she in turn gave to me as a birthday gift in Sept. I took the title to town and registered it and picked up a set of medium speed tags, under 35 mph, since my brother who had rode it said that was about the top speed on it when he rode it. What he didn't tell me was it will probably go faster if the think was running right to start with so once fix I'll most likely be having to upgrade more than the scooter but be upgrading the tags and my TN DL too. The scooter has been wrecked before but not too much damage, just a side panel, the mirrors, and the left rear blinker cover are broke as well as the speedometer cover and a piece of plastic on the rear rack. I can live with the missing panel and broke plastic but I can not put it on the road with the rest not fixed. I measured the mirror bolts and they are right at 8mm so finding a set of them might not be too hard it I don't try to find a set like the originals. I do not have an owners manual since he didn't have one ether and I have not found any online yet ether. The Baccio website is about useless but for some specs and not all of them are right. The DXL 50 has the 150 bore and stroke specs so I know that is not right. One other part I need is one I don't even know the correct one to order because it is not there to measure and that is the speedometer cable. The P.O. had it "repaired" and from the looks of things they didn't know what they were doing and incompetent to boot since they didn't even put the cable back on the thing. While looking for the motor ID stamp, which I still have not found on it, I saw missing bolt, the bottom bolt on the starter motor not all the way screwed in, a cable tie missing off the fuel line where it is just about hanging on the top of the rear tire, and a leak at the exhaust port where the pipe is not bolted on straight.
Since I am moving close to the first of the month and I am on a fixed income I'll have to get parts as I get the funds. I am also having total knee replacement surgery on my right knee on Nov 5th so I will not be riding it anytime soon which gives it time to be fixed with help from my Dad and Brother doing most of the labor since I won't be able to for awhile after surgery. This is what is going on running wise right now.
The electric starter is not working like it should, when it does kick in right it will turn the engine over for about 6 seconds or so. Other times it will not do anything but click, grind, and just spin the starter without turning over the engine so that will need to be fixed. When the engine is cold, weather was hot, the only way I have got it to start is giving it a shot of starting fluid through the air intake box. Once it starts and warms up it will start with one kick of the starter, in this case I use my hand on the kick start to start it. I took it for what turned out to be a very short ride and a even longer walk Sunday and ran into a headache. The tank was almost sitting on empty so I bought a fuel can and some fresh fuel and topped off the tank with fuel. I started it up, with help from the starting fluid, and let it run for about 5 minutes to warm up. Put my helmet on and started out for my first ride on a scooter and and the first two wheel ride I have had in over 10 years. I live on top of a hill so I rode it down the hill to the flat section of road at the bottom. I gave it some gas and at first it started to get up and go till I hit about 3/4 throttle and it acted like it was running out of fuel so I let off of it some and it picked up speed again but only for a few second and then it started to bog down and I could go over 1/2 throttle. This kelp going on till I could get over 1/4 throttle on it. I had already turned it around and was heading back to the house and got as far as my neighbors house which is at the bottom of the hill not 250 feet or so from our property. Called up to the house and Dad drove down the hill to look at it and though the carb might be clogged. He put some 2T carb cleaner he uses in his outboard motors fuel in the take and it seemed to help some but not much even after letting it run for a long while and revving the motor up trying to clear any trash out of the system. We couldn't load the scooter up in the back of the truck since we had two Ford engines in the back that is going in the explorer and the F150 trucks. The way it was running there is no way it was going to pull me up that hill as I weigh as much as the scooter does, 265 LBS, I walked beside the "bike" giving it some fuel to try to get it up the hill, it would go about 10 or 15 feet and act like it was running out of fuel again and I would let it idle for a minute and do it again. About a half hour later and Dad taking over about half way up the hill because my knee would take anymore punishment we got it home and the rear stand on a block so the wheel was off the ground enough. We let it run a good half hour letting the carb cleaner do it's job and it is still not ride-able. The "bike" had a over 6196 miles on it before they removed the speedometer cable so I figure I am going to have to redo the top end at least soon and if I am going to have to do that I might as well put a Big Bore Kit on it. For now what can I do to get this thing street-able again and where can I find a copy of the owners manual for it? I would like to get back in practice riding it before I go under the knife and move into town from out here in the middle of nowhere. Thanks for any help.
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Post by niz76 on Oct 7, 2014 15:22:20 GMT -5
First of all: ! You are in the right place my friend! There's a ton of info here to get that baby purring! You can use the search function and be sure to head over to the tech section. The members here are awesome and always willing to help! We have the best Moderator ever 90GTVert and some amazing talented and experienced folks. After spending some time here you will see... Many consider 2T (2 strokes) superior over those 4 pokes so you have a great scoot there! Haha to be fair 4T's are cool too and either provide their advantages/disadvantages. I also owned a Baccio VX50 as well as a few members here. As far as finding the owners manual, after a while you will see that these Chinese 2T scoots are quite similar to each other barring the few different 2T motors available, and having a manual to your specific scoot is not that important. Here's a manual to scoot that's very similar to yours: HERE. Your scoot engine code should be 1PE40QMB. It is located on the rear of the engine near the airbox and where the shock mounts. You may have to clean some grime off to read the engraving. You'll find that your scoot may go by many different names in the U.S., they are manufactured in China and whomever imports them into the U.S. gives them whatever name they choose, so searching for parts by "Baccio VX50" will not be as fruitful as other search terms. If you're looking for body panels try this site: Eagle ATV Parts. They supply parts for TaoTao's, however if you scroll halfway down the scooter page you will see your VX50 model listed as a "CY 150 D LANCER". Your engine in your scoot is the popular "Minarelli" 2t. It is a China copy of a Yamaha engine. So when searching for performance parts use search terms like "Minarelli" or "Jog 50" or "Zuma BWS" or "1e40qmb". Confusing I know but you'll get the hang of it! Have fun!
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Post by yongvx50 on Oct 7, 2014 16:10:50 GMT -5
Thanks you have been a great help already Niz. I am finding things that I need that I have not been able to find. Mine doesn't look quite like the Lancer but it doesn't look like the one on the Baccio site ether. I am going to go out and take a few photos of it here in a few for comparison purposes. I have noticed that the speedometer looks different too than the images I have seen so far. I'll post some images once I get them taken and upload. Getting it to run right and street legal is the most important right now. Non-essential upgrades can wait.
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Post by jhobe6678 on Oct 7, 2014 16:46:39 GMT -5
The part that Niz was talking about as them being clones and all, means that you don't have to look for an exact part most of the times. I too have a Baccio VX50 (2007 I think) and I went NUTS looking for stuff. Till I came here and got schooled. I'm still a n00b to it all but I'm slowly digging my way out of that hole. There's many levels you can go, from simple repairs to rebuilding and modifying the engine casing to fit many custom parts. My Baccio has been named "Christine" because it seems to have a temper or gremlin haunting it. When I fix one thing, something else goes. It has close to 5k Miles on it and I just had someone from here help me with a fix. I have to say I was surprised that the motor still has high compression, albeit too high maybe. But it's pretty strong. The rest is what I need to work on first, then I'll move to a BBK. I even considered dumping a 150cc engine in it for the heck of it. You'll find out later why. Regards to your "bogging" issue. Fuel and Air supply (not the band...) are key. Check the slack in your throttle cable and make sure it's tight but not too tight. Once you know it's good, you may want to dig into the carburetor and take a peek. My first guess is to remove the throttle cable assembly and check that the needle is still clipped in properly. 90GTVert has a section here on doing a carb cleaning and his videos are spot on when it comes to a reference. The needle on mine fell out when I hit a bump and I had a similar issue to yours. It was idling fine (needle not important at idle) but when I pulled on the throttle, it acted like it was going to move but it died. Fuel starvation. I went round and round till I got brave enough to take the carb apart. When I did, the needle just fell out. If that happens, you may need a new needle/clip. I moved my clip down one notch (making it richer) for now but I've been searching for a rebuild kit for the Mikuni carb I have on there and have come up empty. I'm pretty sure there's a place to order the exact needle and clip though, I have to look into that as I need to bring my carb back to stock before I can really mess with it. I'm sure others will have more input. Niz had his baccio stolen from him, but he was in the middle of rebuilding it. I almost considered selling/trading him mine! There's also Sitticuss (sp?) who has one that is damn sharp looking and I haven't seen him complain much about it. There's no such thing as a stupid question and don't forget, pictures and videos make a huge difference when trying to get diagnostics done in most cases. So take advantage of a good photo hosting site and YouTube. You have time so patience I'm sure isn't an issue for you.
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Post by Elektrey on Oct 7, 2014 18:53:34 GMT -5
Mirrors just replace with aftermarket ones. Can be found on ebay for $8 shipped, nice looking pair.
Speedo cable I wouldn't bother with: just use a bicycle speedo instead it will be more accurate. Can find one on ebay for $3 but it needs a battery to go with or likely you can find it in a store near you.
I would say that the bogging is due to improper air to fuel ratio because of something improperly set but I think it's because of either clogged jets or clogged air filter. Take off the air filter and clean it and also take the carb out and give it a good cleaning.
Plastic parts don't have to be Baccio VX-50 specific. If it looks like it's the same, it most likely is.
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Post by yongvx50 on Oct 7, 2014 23:28:18 GMT -5
The part that Niz was talking about as them being clones and all, means that you don't have to look for an exact part most of the times. I too have a Baccio VX50 (2007 I think) and I went NUTS looking for stuff. Till I came here and got schooled. I'm still a n00b to it all but I'm slowly digging my way out of that hole. There's many levels you can go, from simple repairs to rebuilding and modifying the engine casing to fit many custom parts. My Baccio has been named "Christine" because it seems to have a temper or gremlin haunting it. When I fix one thing, something else goes. It has close to 5k Miles on it and I just had someone from here help me with a fix. I have to say I was surprised that the motor still has high compression, albeit too high maybe. But it's pretty strong. The rest is what I need to work on first, then I'll move to a BBK. I even considered dumping a 150cc engine in it for the heck of it. You'll find out later why. Regards to your "bogging" issue. Fuel and Air supply (not the band...) are key. Check the slack in your throttle cable and make sure it's tight but not too tight. Once you know it's good, you may want to dig into the carburetor and take a peek. My first guess is to remove the throttle cable assembly and check that the needle is still clipped in properly. 90GTVert has a section here on doing a carb cleaning and his videos are spot on when it comes to a reference. The needle on mine fell out when I hit a bump and I had a similar issue to yours. It was idling fine (needle not important at idle) but when I pulled on the throttle, it acted like it was going to move but it died. Fuel starvation. I went round and round till I got brave enough to take the carb apart. When I did, the needle just fell out. If that happens, you may need a new needle/clip. I moved my clip down one notch (making it richer) for now but I've been searching for a rebuild kit for the Mikuni carb I have on there and have come up empty. I'm pretty sure there's a place to order the exact needle and clip though, I have to look into that as I need to bring my carb back to stock before I can really mess with it. I'm sure others will have more input. Niz had his baccio stolen from him, but he was in the middle of rebuilding it. I almost considered selling/trading him mine! There's also Sitticuss (sp?) who has one that is damn sharp looking and I haven't seen him complain much about it. There's no such thing as a stupid question and don't forget, pictures and videos make a huge difference when trying to get diagnostics done in most cases. So take advantage of a good photo hosting site and YouTube. You have time so patience I'm sure isn't an issue for you. Thanks, I have been reading both your thread and Niz's thread on the VX50 and learned allot from both threads. I am sorry that Niz's got snatched and I hope he recovers it. I have a 20 foot 1/2" coil chain that I will be using to lock up mine at the new apartment and I'll get a cable or something for when I go to the store or somewhere. Also as you said I have plenty of time and as the old saying goes I have the patience of an oyster.
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Post by yongvx50 on Oct 8, 2014 0:41:35 GMT -5
Sorry for the double post but here is the photos that I took today before my batteries when dead. I have them on the charger now. I have two doctors appointments tomorrow so I will not have time to shoot any video of it running unless I do it in the morning and it is suppose to rain again so it is up to the weather and time to do it. Saw so other things wrong while shooting the photos that I will have to get access to a TIG to fix if it is not made of pot metal. This is where the side panel that is laying beside the house is suppose to be at but isn't. Also notice I have the stand on a block to get the back wheel off the ground though I do need a lower size block but this one was handy. Side view of the "bike" up on a wooden block. The missing lens cover and another place for touch ups. The missing side panel. This is how i found the fuel line almost touching the rear wheel. Surprised it hasn't got ripped off by the tire. Not sure what this is but where the yellow wire goes in it is melted some. Pipe flange is also busted, I didn't notice it till after I looked at the photos. The flash put more light on the subject. Leak and gap in the exhaust pipe. If I can get access to a mig or tig I'll fix where it is busted. The Japan made Carb that is on it. Pulled the fuel line out of the way of the rear wheel for now. The busted mirrors I took off. Front view of the lights and turn signals. Are the headlight covers suppose to be that yellow or are they supposed to be clear? Headlights that are different than what is on the Baccio website. Busted rack held on with packing tape. Needs a little touched up and painted. Removed the mirrors that were busted where they attach to the holders. Side View of the busted rack that after a closer look seems to be made of fiberglass. Busted speedometer lens This is the only tag on the engine I found so far.
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Post by niz76 on Oct 8, 2014 1:57:37 GMT -5
Looks like she could use some TLC, but not too bad. I miss my Baccio if only for the fact that it was so damn easy to access the carb with the rear facing intake puts it out in the open. All the forward facing intake carbs suck and have to be removed from scoot just to do a jet change. Looks like Baccio changed the body style up a bit and still called it a VX50. That's a very popular body style for the 150cc's. Should be easy as cake to find a speedo and any missing peices you may need. looking forward to hearing her run!
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Post by Sitticuss on Oct 8, 2014 4:36:54 GMT -5
That's what the lenses look like after a few years of sun. try some scratch out to clean them up a bit. You can buy the clear plastic piece to cover the gauges if they still work. I think i saw a whole new cluster for like twenty bucks. Basically the same design as mine with the body panels..Found some on eBay searching for "hunter phantom" parts. My center stand is mounted to the frame not the motor. I removed it anyway it hung to low and the scooter is pretty heavy to pull onto the stand. Probably why its broken. The engine number etc is under that bracket and air box stamped on the top of the motor next too and behind that tag you found. Looks like mine when I first bought it. Their a nice riding scooter.
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Post by jhobe6678 on Oct 8, 2014 4:51:22 GMT -5
The Speedo cluster is $30 in most places. I know I've seen it somewhere exactly how it is, minus the "Baccio" from it. So that's not a big deal. The wiring up front is easy to get to once you remove ALL THE SCREWS from the handlebar panels and the front panel. My headlights are small focused round glass lenses, not the same as yours. Otherwise our bikes are the same. Looks like there's a manual fuel valve on it, be mindful of turning it on and off when using the bike. Make sure it's fully open when you're driving, otherwise you can starve the motor. That burnt yellow wire looks to be going to your coil. Those are cheap, you can get an OEM coil for I think $10. There's not many choices fortunately for that so it shouldn't be too hard to find. Zip ties are your friend! As for the spoiler and body, worry about that last. I'm not sure where you see a break on the exhaust flange. It's supposed to be open and sort of has a "hook" design on both sides, it's not two closed in holes for the exhaust bolts/studs to go through. I had an exhaust leak on mine that I couldn't get sealed because I either was using the wrong gaskets or just doing it wrong. Dave here put an S6 gasket on and it seemed to work. Torque specs are around 15 ftbls? If you want a manual for the motor, look here in the tech section and get the manual for the Minerelli / Jog / ***40QMB motor. That's what you have. In fact, the numbers you say you saw, that's on the CVT Cover. The actual motor stamped number is just behind that, on the top of the swingarm. It's a bitch to see, but it's there. It also looks like you have the same carb as I do. Do a cleaning on it, if you're unsure you can always not take all the small stuff apart and just soak it overnight in carb cleaner or just warm soap and water. Dry it with compressed air and check the gasket on the bowl to make sure it still has enough puff up to seal the bowl. Make sure the bowl drain screw is tight so you're not peeing ga everywhere. I thought I was nuts about my center kickstand, it doesn't raise the wheel enough too. I'll have to get a block or brick for that like you have. Keep us posted young oyster.
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Post by yongvx50 on Oct 8, 2014 10:22:54 GMT -5
Just woke up and I have to take my meds, eat, and get ready to leave for the two appointments today. It is raining out right now so I am not going to fire it up in the rain. My mom is driving my to my appointments since she has somethings to do in town too today so I am not sure what time I will get back. My last appointment is at 2:30 and I'll be in there for at least an hour or more before she goes to Walmart. When she gets in there I might not get back before dark but if I get back in time and it is not raining I'll shoot the video today. I will not be able to upload it till midnight anyway I go at it anyway do to I have a limited band width on the net and it has a late night free zone time of midnight to five am. Didn't know it was suppose to be like that so I just have an oil leak in that area. I guess I'll find out once I get a new cable, but I am willing to bet that the digital part of the cluster is not hooked up ether. I know the fuel gauge works but the lens is so yellow it is hard to see if the digital part is working at all right now.
Yeah I had a whole bag of them in my tool box till my brother raided it when he was working on his sons vehicle so now I have to pick up some more and looks like hide them this time.
I plan on worrying about the cosmetics last. Since that one part is fiberglass it will give me something to practice on for when even I find the right boat I am looking and saving up to buy used if I ever need to go any glass work on it. The hardest part after getting this thing in shape is going to be keeping it that way once I have my boat. Getting it on and off the boat plus keeping it out of the ocean spray is going to be chore. Probably going to have to rig some type of loading rings on the bike and make a dog house for it on the sailboat. That is much further down the line to worry about, not for now. You will have to use a long block or two bricks, one brick isn't long enough. The block I am using is "firewood" we get them by the truck load. They are untreated scrap pieces cut from where they are making railroad ties at the local sawmill.
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Post by Elektrey on Oct 8, 2014 12:32:42 GMT -5
Get some headlight lens restorer and use it on the front lights and speedo cover to return them to the clear plastic they were.
maybe try some epoxy and clamps to put the rear rack back together. Would be careful putting alot on it though.
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Post by niz76 on Oct 8, 2014 12:41:35 GMT -5
I tried headlight restore kit on a few scoots... Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. Your headlights look really yellowed out- if the China plastic is yellowed all the way through no amount of sanding will get through it.
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Post by Elektrey on Oct 8, 2014 13:05:41 GMT -5
I tried headlight restore kit on a few scoots... Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. Your headlights look really yellowed out- if the China plastic is yellowed all the way through no amount of sanding will get through it. yeah thats true, it mainly just will polish it and remove the clouding.
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Post by jhobe6678 on Oct 8, 2014 13:11:29 GMT -5
There's always saran wrap?
Honestly I'd just replace the gauge cluster. That or just remove the plastic from it for now. As for the headlights, that's your call. I've used acetone to clear up some plastic lenses before. Have one cloth with water and one damp with the acetone. Swipe with acetone then chase with the water right after it. I mean you have to be Mr. Miagi on it and wipe on wipe off right away, or you'll start to melt and streak the plastic. That's a cheap way if you have some laying around and a few old socks or clothes. If you don't see any difference after a couple of swipes in a test area, then hope is lost and the plastic needs to be replaced.
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