|
Post by 90GTVert on Nov 13, 2014 19:31:06 GMT -5
|
|
|
Post by jhobe6678 on Nov 13, 2014 20:24:45 GMT -5
Right, I saw that post. So all I'd have to do is get the right rockers for it and slap a new cam and I wouldn't have to worry then? I'm debating if I want to get a BBK head at all. For the price, it's almost worth trying out really. But I was just wondering if there was any real benefit to the sizes. The rocker arms I can get cheap I'm sure.
|
|
|
Post by jhobe6678 on Nov 14, 2014 9:42:10 GMT -5
I ordered the Keihin Carb from 02Starrider on eBay. Since I heard good things about his store there I figured I'd order from him and he had it at a good price. I have the jets. So when it comes, I'll do a carb swap and report.
|
|
|
Post by 90GTVert on Nov 14, 2014 10:12:30 GMT -5
You don't have to swap the cam. Just rockers or rocker assembly. You can get a whole rocker assembly for about $20 IIRC for the 64mm. As far as performance, the only thing I can really thin of is the 64mm setup should be lighter if all else is equal. Lighter valves should put less stress on the other valvetrain bits. Is it enough to make an appreciable difference, I don't know. It's not something I'd be too concerned about.
|
|
|
Post by jhobe6678 on Nov 14, 2014 10:31:06 GMT -5
You don't have to swap the cam. Just rockers or rocker assembly. You can get a whole rocker assembly for about $20 IIRC for the 64mm. As far as performance, the only thing I can really thin of is the 64mm setup should be lighter if all else is equal. Lighter valves should put less stress on the other valvetrain bits. Is it enough to make an appreciable difference, I don't know. It's not something I'd be too concerned about. Well I would order the rocker assembly so I'm not taking apart the stock head, it would make for a quick swap in case i don't like how one is running and vice versa. So I'll tell him 64mm valves and just go with it. PS. The Carb I ordered from 02Starrider already shipped! He's fast! I'm pretty sure the Keihin carb is a 20mm? Or true 19? I don't know, I know it's big enough for the BBK I just wanted a better carb than the stock one now. Thanks Brent, this was good info as always. I just wasn't sure what the length difference would be. I know wider valves make a difference in exhaust and what not but I'm not going there. Ugh. Keeping track of my 2t and 4t upgrades is going to put me in the hospital lol.
|
|
|
Post by 90GTVert on Nov 14, 2014 11:33:10 GMT -5
Larger diameter valves (at the head) can increase flow, but in this case it's just a longer stem. When you hear of "big valve" heads, they should be referring to a larger diameter not the longer valves although I have seen the term used the opposite way.
I don't see it specified and no marking like mine has (PD19J from a different seller), but anything in the common 18-20mm range will be fine.
|
|
|
Post by jhobe6678 on Nov 14, 2014 11:41:24 GMT -5
Larger diameter valves (at the head) can increase flow, but in this case it's just a longer stem. When you hear of "big valve" heads, they should be referring to a larger diameter not the longer valves although I have seen the term used the opposite way. I don't see it specified and no marking like mine has (PD19J from a different seller), but anything in the common 18-20mm range will be fine. Ok cool. Thanks Brent. Also sorry for hijacking the Gearing thread in the other part lol. I'm still trying to figure it out and today with the free shipping on ScooterTunning, I was thinking of going ahead and ordering them. But I don't want to order them (for the VX50, not the M1 yet) and later down the road find out I still have the wrong ones.
|
|
|
Post by jhobe6678 on Nov 18, 2014 14:13:56 GMT -5
I ordered the A9 cam from Scrappy and I'm going to order the Big Bore head from Valley today as well. 64mm valves. So I'm looking around and I can't find a rocker arm assembly/kit, only the parts for them. Crap! I have to build one from scratch?!?! I don't want to remove the set from the stock head because I want to keep the heads in tact for a quick swap. In case I don't like how one works and what not. I'm thinking of tearing into one of the 4t's on my patio but I wrote a guy on CL last night who buys junk scoots and stuff. I'm waiting for him to respond and see if he's interested in taking them off my hands. If not, I'll drop the engines out of both, ditch the frames and have to start selling them off by piece.
|
|
|
Post by Mrx2002 on Nov 18, 2014 23:55:00 GMT -5
I ordered the A9 cam from Scrappy and I'm going to order the Big Bore head from Valley today as well. 64mm valves. So I'm looking around and I can't find a rocker arm assembly/kit, only the parts for them. Crap! I have to build one from scratch?!?! I don't want to remove the set from the stock head because I want to keep the heads in tact for a quick swap. In case I don't like how one works and what not. I'm thinking of tearing into one of the 4t's on my patio but I wrote a guy on CL last night who buys junk scoots and stuff. I'm waiting for him to respond and see if he's interested in taking them off my hands. If not, I'll drop the engines out of both, ditch the frames and have to start selling them off by piece. *Sigh* I would move from Fl at the wrong time. Im always in need of spare parts! <_<
|
|
|
Post by jhobe6678 on Nov 19, 2014 5:48:55 GMT -5
Don't feel bad. There's only me and 2TDave in this area that I know of. Everyone else is on the other side of the state and north. I decided to not order the big bore head, I'm going to use the factory head for now I think. I was looking and found heads on Parts For Scooters too, but they had different spacing on the bolt holes for the cylinder and the valve cover? They were not more than 1mm off according to their measurements though so it can't be hard to make them fit. But I also want to find a valve cover without the PAIR system so I can just remove the tubes and not have to fashion a plug for it. I think there's one on one of the old 4t's so I may try and fit that on there. But can you use a Non-Emissions cover on a head with emissions?
|
|
|
Post by Mrx2002 on Nov 19, 2014 7:09:23 GMT -5
|
|
|
Post by jhobe6678 on Nov 19, 2014 8:12:11 GMT -5
Thanks for the link! Though my issue wasn't so much as finding the parts, but buying the right parts and having them all match up. Plus I'm not even sure putting the bigger head on would be beneficial as I've read from many people here that using the factory head has served them well enough. So I think I'll hold off on ordering it. My question though was can I use a Non-Emissions valve cover instead of the existing one so if I remove the PAIR system and put that head on, would it affect anything. Sorry for the confusion
|
|
|
Post by jhobe6678 on Nov 19, 2014 18:36:39 GMT -5
I did a little work today while I had a couple of hours before I have to go somewhere. I tried out the slider weights I bought, not the ones from 2TDave because those were 6,7 & 8g weights. I bought some 4 & 5g sliders from someone else on eBay for $9 a set I think. Well I took out the 4g rollers that were in it already and put the 4g sliders in. I lost some top speed, wtf? So maybe I had them in backwards. I switched them and put them in the other way. A little better, but still nothing over 36mph. It's a little windy but nothing horrible. So I put the 4g rollers back in, able to get to 38.5mph easier and slowly creep to 40. Ok... Rollers it is for now I guess. I also decided while I had time to swap the carb. I put the Keihin carb in I got from 02Starrider. I had to use a different hose clamp for the fuel line because the inlet on this carb was a little smaller than on my stock carb. I left the main jet it came with in, it has a #78. I don't really have time to try jets now and tune. Figured I'd slap the carb in and see how she responds. I have to say the engine feels stronger. Not faster per-say, but it feels like it's got some better bottom end to it for sure. I'll have to fine tune it more later, but for now I'm taking it on a 10mile each way trip. It's so nice out and my car is feeling rough so any mileage I can save before putting the front end together I will take. Funny side effect. The flicker in my headlight seems to have gone away? Before it would flicker in "High Beam" real bad until I hit the brakes or something to "Stabilize" the current. Now it seems to be fine? Maybe it was the electric choke on the stock carb? I don't see how else the carb could affect the electrical. No, it's not an idle issue because the flicker happened at high RPM and was VERY noticeable even during the daytime. So that's the report for the day. See, at least I did SOMETHING this week. I also got the reed valve assembly from niz76 already for the VX50. So I'll hopefully get to that sometime this week too. Off I go!
|
|
|
Post by jhobe6678 on Nov 19, 2014 21:59:14 GMT -5
So a 20 mile trip and here's some thoughts.
1. Even if your body and legs are comfy in cooler weather, WEAR GLOVES YOU IDIOT!! 2. This was probably the longest I've ridden the scoot in one shot. All at night. Man it's fun! 3. The headlight flickering is still there. Funny thing though, it's steady when idle but flickers when the engine is rev'd up. Stabilizes when hitting the brakes, horn or turn signals. I'm thinking the rectifier may be on its way out so I'll order a new one and find out.
4. It stalled on me a couple of times at a light, like if I rev'd it up real fast it would idle really really low and just want to die unless I gave it gas for a steady few seconds. Even then a few times it still felt like it wanted to die. Keep in mind, new carb. 78 MJ and I haven't adjusted anything except for the idle speed screw on the side. I'd rather have it idle a little high than for it to constantly struggle when I stop. Otherwise the acceleration and response on the new carb are much better than the stock.
5. Having my GPS stuck to the dash to see true speeds was nice, it makes me want to go aftermarket on the speedo and get more accurate. I cruised around 38-40mph the whole way, slowest speed at WOT was 37. Not much wind out, mid 60's temps.
|
|
|
Post by Mrx2002 on Nov 20, 2014 11:00:43 GMT -5
Yea gloves are a must in the cooler temps man! I had the same issues with my headlight flickering at over idle rpms clean your engine to frame ground and all the others while you're at it. If that doesn't help its the rectifier. Also its not a bad idea to paint the ground after its bolted back to the frame to stop future rust.
|
|