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Post by jhobe6678 on Nov 20, 2014 17:42:22 GMT -5
Yea gloves are a must in the cooler temps man! I had the same issues with my headlight flickering at over idle rpms clean your engine to frame ground and all the others while you're at it. If that doesn't help its the rectifier. Also its not a bad idea to paint the ground after its bolted back to the frame to stop future rust. I'll give that a check. I have a new Rectifier on the way just in case, can't hurt to have a spare. But I am going to check the ground and may apply some dielectric grease to the connectors from the stator as well. A good clean ground is a must. I know there's a lug on the engine to ground it to the frame that I once removed to do the valve adjustment so that will be looked at too. I'll trace it back and make sure it's all connected well, even if I have to tin all of the connections with solder.
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Post by jhobe6678 on Nov 20, 2014 19:43:03 GMT -5
I got the new cam from Scrappy today. Damn that thing is tiny! I also got a universal flywheel puller too. I'm waiting on a few other things in the mail to come still. Though I don't think much will get done this weekend as my car really needs to be my priority. And I know that's going to hurt doing that job, providing my hubs aren't seized onto the axles.
Don't worry. With thanksgiving coming up and my christmas vacation (11 days off in a row PAID!!!) plus I have a week of time I need to use still as well, I'm going to get this crap started at least by the end of the year lol.
I smell new gears soon.
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Post by 90GTVert on Nov 21, 2014 11:20:58 GMT -5
my christmas vacation (11 days off in a row PAID!!!) Is your company hiring? I'd like to start a few days before Christmas and need work till about a week after.
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Post by jhobe6678 on Nov 21, 2014 11:55:50 GMT -5
my christmas vacation (11 days off in a row PAID!!!) Is your company hiring? I'd like to start a few days before Christmas and need work till about a week after. Sure. If you don't mind soldering wires the size of a human hair to SMD resisters the size of two grains of pepper together. Or you could be the cryogenic liquid fetch boy and fill my Dewar with liquid nitrogen?
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Post by jhobe6678 on Nov 21, 2014 21:00:31 GMT -5
So it turned out that the rectifier I ordered was the wrong one. Looks like I'll have a spare. *sigh* I ordered the right one today so I won't get to see if the lights will stop flickering till maybe Tuesday.
I did check the connections again. Started with the connection from the Stator, pulled it and put some Dielectric grease in it. Then I took the front apart and checked and greased the light connections. No dice. It still flickers at high RPM and only stabilizes when I engage another electric device like the brake lights, horn or turn signals. I checked the ground on the valve cover and back to the frame, all seems tight. No real visual though because it was dark.
Turns out I can't do the car work this weekend, I assumed the hubs would slide into place but that's because the rear was like that. I forgot that I had to take the entire hub/knuckle assembly off and have THAT all pressed together. *sigh* So I have a free weekend for once. Hmm. What to do. *looks over at the VX50 and winks*
I tried to do some more reading on the headlight flickering though. I read on some place that some guy jumped his scoot with his car and that seemed to put things out of whack. It made me think, I've used a jump pack to start the scoot a few times. I killed the battery trying to prime the carb a few times in the past from jet changes and such. Could that have fried the rectifier? I really should grab a wiring diagram for this thing.
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Post by Elektrey on Nov 21, 2014 22:41:03 GMT -5
Sounds like maybe the battery is overvolting and then when you engage another electronic it brings it back down into an allowable voltage ? I don't know much about electronics just a thought. At high speeds the magneto could be overcharging the battery maybe?
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Post by jhobe6678 on Nov 21, 2014 22:50:02 GMT -5
Sounds like maybe the battery is overvolting and then when you engage another electronic it brings it back down into an allowable voltage ? I don't know much about electronics just a thought. At high speeds the magneto could be overcharging the battery maybe? I've thought about that. I've been testing it mostly at night. I would like to hook my meter up to it during the day and watch it but I'm not sure it would be fast enough. The meter that is. It's almost like once I hit a certain RPM above idle, it does a steady frequency of cycles. I'm pointing my finger to the rectifier, but the headlights run off of AC so I don't know. I'm tempted to patch in a DC line to them and see how they work. It wouldn't be a big deal to me because I can easily modify with connectors so I'm not cutting harness wires and I have tons of toggle switches to put in line to turn the lights on and off before the dimmer switch itself. There is a difference though when running them on Low beam, they run steady then. It's only on the high beam setting when they freak out. I'm hoping it's not the bulbs themselves, they weren't exactly cheap.
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Post by Elektrey on Nov 21, 2014 23:06:37 GMT -5
well my thought process was basically: -> identify link to RPM -> what does RPM change electrically -> connected to magneto
So that's where the problem would seem to be originating or anything that is directly effected by the magneto.
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Post by Sitticuss on Nov 21, 2014 23:44:44 GMT -5
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Post by Clank on Nov 22, 2014 0:23:17 GMT -5
:rofl: :disco:
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Post by Mrx2002 on Nov 22, 2014 1:48:00 GMT -5
Sounds like maybe the battery is overvolting and then when you engage another electronic it brings it back down into an allowable voltage ? I don't know much about electronics just a thought. At high speeds the magneto could be overcharging the battery maybe? I've thought about that. I've been testing it mostly at night. I would like to hook my meter up to it during the day and watch it but I'm not sure it would be fast enough. The meter that is. It's almost like once I hit a certain RPM above idle, it does a steady frequency of cycles. I'm pointing my finger to the rectifier, but the headlights run off of AC so I don't know. I'm tempted to patch in a DC line to them and see how they work. It wouldn't be a big deal to me because I can easily modify with connectors so I'm not cutting harness wires and I have tons of toggle switches to put in line to turn the lights on and off before the dimmer switch itself. There is a difference though when running them on Low beam, they run steady then. It's only on the high beam setting when they freak out. I'm hoping it's not the bulbs themselves, they weren't exactly cheap. Resistance is futile all your base are belong to us!
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Post by jhobe6678 on Nov 22, 2014 8:44:41 GMT -5
well my thought process was basically: -> identify link to RPM -> what does RPM change electrically -> connected to magneto So that's where the problem would seem to be originating or anything that is directly effected by the magneto. I'll have to check what the voltage is at different points. Even if I have to rig the wrong rectifier up to work temporarily.
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Post by jhobe6678 on Nov 28, 2014 9:41:50 GMT -5
I've been doing some reading, I know that's dangerous... I saw a post talking about the piston rings in these BBK. I believe it was stroker that said don't use the rings that come with the kits? Go for a Hoca or some other brand, but that means i have to buy the piston and rings and hope it's the exact size of what I have already. I don't see on PFS the rings themselves. I got my BBK for this scooter from ValleyScooters. I was thinking of putting it in this weekend since I've got 4 days off and only so much I can do to my VX50. It's not going to be a DAILY driver of a scooter, but it will be backup/casual cruising if anything.
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Post by 90GTVert on Nov 29, 2014 10:17:44 GMT -5
I'd expect Taiwan and Japanese made rings, like other parts, to be a bit better quality and to better tolerances. That said, there are an awful lot of people using cheap BBKs that aren't talking about compression and oil control issues.
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Post by jhobe6678 on Nov 29, 2014 10:23:17 GMT -5
I'd expect Taiwan and Japanese made rings, like other parts, to be a bit better quality and to better tolerances. That said, there are an awful lot of people using cheap BBKs that aren't talking about compression and oil control issues. Yeah, I hear ya. I think I'm just over thinking it all at this point. The Baccio has me so damn frazzled that I'm afraid to touch this thing right now. Clank even has me worried too lol. I don't know. I'm thinking of dropping the engine, bringing it inside (it's way cleaner and safer in the house) so I can take my time and put this one together. Working on both projects at the same time is probably stupid, but I need a break from the VX I think with all the issues I'm having there.
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