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Post by Deleted on Jan 23, 2015 1:09:32 GMT -5
What's the purpose of the extra port Fox? Is it for a different model engine?
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Post by Deleted on Jan 23, 2015 2:14:07 GMT -5
I wonder if JB weld might work better instead of the block off plate. Or I could thread the hole and stick a bolt in there with some teflon tape
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Post by Deleted on Jan 23, 2015 9:32:44 GMT -5
I can't for the life of me figure out how to re-jet this carb. On the side is stamped Kai Hin CVK I only see 2 jets. Aren't there supposed to be 3? The 2 jets I can see are pretty long when removed. The ones that came with my bbk are small. I figured the jets were pretty standard since I didn't see any different kinds of jets, just different numbered jets. It looks almost identical to the one this guy is showing off in this vid. www.youtube.com/watch?v=gOZAtiVOEV4EDIT:: I figured it out.. www.youtube.com/watch?v=SCcdaTjuIL4
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Post by Fox on Jan 23, 2015 10:47:41 GMT -5
What's the purpose of the extra port Fox? Is it for a different model engine? That's for a smog device. It's called a P.A.I.R. System. It injects air into the exhaust pipe downstream of the valve to somehow reduce emissions. Re-burning the gasses or some crap. I don't know exactly how it works and whenever I see a system on a scooter I'm repairing I remove the thing and block that port off. Some states require it. Some don't but either way having it on a scooter just means something else that can go wrong and more tubes and stuff in the way. They have a special valve cover with a reed valve thingy, a metal tube, a canister and some rubber tubing and a vacuum line. 90GTVert aka Brent made a video
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Post by 90GTVert on Jan 23, 2015 16:43:01 GMT -5
Parts For Scooters has 19.8x30x5 seals (part#151-2) and you can get them on eBay. The main jet and pilot jet are the only ones you'd need to worry about. Main is in the center, pilot is the other near the center. The main jet is very small. The pilot jet is a long jet. Removing a jet.Tuning process.EDIT : Just realized you said you figured it out already.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 23, 2015 21:22:53 GMT -5
Update:
I have everything together except for the vacuum lines and fuel lines, and the auto-enricher electrical connector. I can't remember where the hell they go. I also figured out where the short was that was causing my starter to not work lol. Should make it easier having a starter again. There's a ground that connects to the bottom of the valve cover on one of the screws, and it came loose. Pretty sure the starter is gonna work again.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 23, 2015 23:41:36 GMT -5
Okay, so.. According to what I see going on in this vid. www.youtube.com/watch?v=gOZAtiVOEV4The top left is just for venting, the brass one on the bottom is for the drain, the grey one on the bottom is just a blank. Which is exactly what my mind is still drawing.. a blank.
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Post by Fox on Jan 24, 2015 0:19:54 GMT -5
One vacuum line is gonna go to the fuel valve on the bottom of the gas tank. Can't see any other reason for a vacuum line on a 50cc unless you have the evap canister for the fuel tank. (Black cylindrical thing with rubber hoses coming off it) That has a vacuum line.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 24, 2015 1:55:22 GMT -5
The Fuel inlet line is to the right side of the auto-choke. There's also the carb drain line at the bottom, carb vent line at the top. I have all of that figured out. And found the connector for the auto-choke.
What I have left is.. Line that connects at the intake manifold, line which connects to the petcock. Line which connects at the back of the variator. There's another line right between the air box and the carb. And 1 more line. I can't recall where it's at right now. There's a Y split, which connects 3 of these lines together. And the other two are connected to each other.
I decided to kick the kick starter a few times to see if everything was moving as it should, seems like it's a bit more difficult to kick now. I'm not sure if that's due to the bigger piston, newer rings and thus better compression, or just the fact that m old cylinder barely had any compression.
I'm a little out of it right now. Been up.. 31 hours now, worked for 15 on the scooter. I'm going to hit it with a rested mind and body in the morning.
Thanks for everybody's help so far.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 25, 2015 0:25:44 GMT -5
Another update..
Some things I've noticed. It looks like the vacuum lines and fuel lines run 2 different diameters. The vacuum lines are all larger than the fuel lines. So that simplifies it a bit.
I connected the fuel inlet line, and the carb drain line. I also connected the vacuum line from the valve cover to the T which leads to the line at the back of the variator and the petcock vacuum line.
I also replaced the fuel lines with new clear fuel line since the carb drain line was all cracked out and leaking. I wasn't able to do the vacuum lines since they're a larger diameter.
So I primed the carb and it started up. It won't idle unless I have my finger over the line that comes out of the intake manifold. And it is suuuper loud. There's about a 1/4" gap between the head and the tailpipe even though it's tightened all the way down. I'm guessing since it worked before the new head, that the head is warped. Will have to check it in the morning.
I will update with a few pictures as soon as I can find my phone. You'll get to see my custom block plate.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 25, 2015 2:19:02 GMT -5
I just went outside to check it out, because I know I won't be able to sleep tonight without knowing what's causing the exhaust to fit up correctly to the head. I figured the easiest first step would be to check and make sure the old head was level, because if it had a convex curve, it would have caused the exhaust to warp when tightened... it's straight as an arrow. Well, next easiest thing would be to take off the exhaust and check it, also fine. So, I got down and checked under the head. Bingo! This thing is just not flat, in any way whatsoever. Looks like poor machining to me but I can't say for sure. I will have to get a better look at it in the morning.
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Post by Fox on Jan 25, 2015 10:41:19 GMT -5
There is a gasket that goes between the exhaust and the head. If you didn't use one then that's an issue. Also, it's common for the pipe flange to have a bow shape cause the gasket is in the middle. I have straightened them out with a crescent wrench and brute force.
If you are careful you can pry the old gasket out of the old head and re-use it. I stick 'em onto the engine with silicone so it stays up on the head and then install the pipe.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 25, 2015 14:15:59 GMT -5
Fox, there didn't seem to be a gasket on the old head. I don't think there ever was an exhaust gasket on this scooter. The surface of the old head and the surface of the exhaust must have been flat enough to create a pretty good seal. I doubt that a gasket would fix a 1/4" gap. There are large ridges on the head where the 2 surfaces mate. They need to be ground down.
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Post by Fox on Jan 25, 2015 14:59:56 GMT -5
Id like to see pics of the old and the new as well as the pipe
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Post by Deleted on Jan 25, 2015 15:26:13 GMT -5
LOL okay, well, my bad haha. There's a metal ring on the old exhaust, when I saw it I assumed it was machined in there because I couldn't get it out. Well I managed to pop it out, going to put it in the new head.
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