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Post by albongo on Jan 25, 2015 16:40:58 GMT -5
The 'metal ring' sounds like a crush gasket. You might not get a good seal if you reuse it. When I changed my exhaust the old gasket was mashed. Then again it might be fine.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 26, 2015 17:49:50 GMT -5
I still don't think I've got these vacuum lines correct. It just doesn't want to idle for very long.
Does anybody else have a TaoTao 50cc who is willing to snap a couple of pictures of their vacuum lines?
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Post by Deleted on Jan 26, 2015 18:49:54 GMT -5
Update: Got it idling and just took it for a spin around the block Huge improvement over stock. It's only going to get better as I get things adjusted. I used this vid here www.youtube.com/watch?v=QCskx5LO33cSince I had the carb vent line, the fuel inlet, and the carb drain line figured out.. Towards the end he shows the one from the intake manifold goes to some emissions system or something.. I don't have that so that info didn't help. But he showed the one from the valve cover goes to the back of the intake before the carb. This left me with only 3 other vacuum lines I wasn't sure about. And since I had a 3 way T, and 3 lines, they all obviously connect to each other. One thing that's bothering me though is I keep having to adjust the valve gaps. I'm guessing that this is just part of breaking it in, but after running for only 5 mins, the valve gap is way off, usually it's tightened up, but last time it was waaay loose. I'm adjusting from top dead center.
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Post by scooterpimp on Jan 26, 2015 18:58:11 GMT -5
Valve lash shouldn't change that quickly , set valves on a cold engine , when @ tdc verify there isnt any lobe lift on rocker.before setting lash. Turn engine over by hand a few times then recheck before closing up.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 3, 2015 19:17:53 GMT -5
Well everything works. Only problem now is that my O-ring is toast. It just leaks a ton of oil everywhere. I went up and around the block with it and there's a steady stream of oil, not just drops but a steady stream coming off the back of the variator. I pulled the O-ring and well..
When I put the damn thing in, I pushed it in too far so I had to pull it back out. When I pulled it back out, I tore it up pretty bad and didn't have the cash on paypal to order a new one. It worked moderately well with only minor seepage up until recently.
When I pulled it out, the spring that is supposed to be in the o-ring is gone. I'm thinking it got sucked up into the engine. What's the prognosis on this? Worst case scenario? I'm thinking the spring is made of such a thin steel it probably just got ground up by the engine a long time ago, and that explains the metal bits I found in the oil filter.
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Post by Upgrayedd on Feb 3, 2015 21:22:30 GMT -5
yes the valve lash will not be the same when cold vs when warm or hot. i think the gap narrows when heated on most engines, but i hear some widen too. i suppose it depends on the setup.
take care not to strip the threads on those pins if ur in there a lot.
good luck getting it all set right. it sounds like you got a grip on it and will have it fixed up before long.
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Post by Fox on Feb 3, 2015 23:58:43 GMT -5
Listen to these guys^^^ You set the valves when the engine is cold/room temp. Metal expands when hot so the gaps will change. Check them two or three times a year. And adjust that mixture screw on the carb a few times a year when the weather changes from hot to cold and back to hot again.
The metal in the engine isn't the end of the world but I would stop riding it til you fix that seal cause you are gunking up the clutch and the belt case with oil. It's not good. If you use a small wood block and a hammer to gently tap the seal in it will stop flush with the engine case. Make sure the little lip on the seal doesn't flip out toward you when you slide it on the crankshaft.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 6, 2015 23:27:34 GMT -5
Yeah I'm definitely not running it until I get the oil seal fixed. I just managed to order the new seal today. www.ebay.com/itm/171649728869The package includes 2, "High performance" blue oil seals. Not sure what the difference is but I'm willing to give it a shot. And if I screw it up, there's a 2nd one to get it right. Or replace mine again down the road, or maybe make a few bucks replacing somebody else's. There's a bit of a scooter crowd here in Vegas. Not too many people seem to know how to work on them, most people want nothing to do with wrenching on these, even seasoned mechanics. So I think if I can get decent enough at working on these I might find some side work doing this stuff. I also ordered a replacement for my variator fan that got all torn up. www.ebay.com/itm/221676408354The good news that came from having the o-ring go out.. Before I realized it was this bad.. I took it up to the corner store and back as a test, and yes, the oil is definitely causing problems in the transmission, lots of slippage it seems. When I came back home to pull it into the side yard, all the oil I was leaking made a nice mess out of my parents' pavers which are due for a re-sealing. I managed to clean it up without staining the pavers, but because of the mess, my scooter has earned itself a spot in the garage since it's the only place I can park it without oil being an issue. And yes, I'm at the parents' house again. When I first got the scooter I was at a roommates, but I'm 26 and back with the parents now. That's why they call us the "boomerang generation". I blame the economy
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Post by Deleted on Feb 12, 2015 23:20:23 GMT -5
I got the seals in yesterday and the fan in the day before. So I put everything together today. It ran okay for a while, but after a few miles I noticed the rpms started to stutter, especially when going from a full stop. RPMs seem to go up and down rhythmically at all speeds at the same rate. Top end now seems to be about 30mph. It just seems like it's bogged down. Tonight I opened up the CVT case again and cleaned out any remaining oil from the last oil seal. I hit the entire CVT with brake cleaner so every part and crevice is squeaky clean.
When I was taking it apart, and when I put it back together, I noticed the plate where the rollers slide against fit a bit tight onto the main drive shaft. I had to force it on there. Am I putting it together wrong? It seems like there's only one way to put this thing together and have all the parts working.
The order I put things in; back plate, variator, bushing, belt, front plate, fan, kick-start gear, washer, nut. I used a pneumatic impact wrench to remove and replace the two nuts.
Shouldn't the variator be free-spinning? Isn't that why the whole thing except for the back plate rides on the bushing?
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Post by niz76 on Feb 12, 2015 23:28:41 GMT -5
Sounds like you got the vari on right. it isn't free spinning. Seems pretty common to have to force the plate onto the shaft a bit... Hopefully somebody has some ideas for your RPM issues!
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Post by Fox on Feb 12, 2015 23:32:13 GMT -5
Usually a pulsing engine means an air/vacuum leak somewhere. The rubber elbow the carburetor fits into will crack sometimes and cause havoc. Also it's not unheard of to have a tear in the carburetor diaphragm. If the variator was free spinning then the scooter would never go anywhere.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 13, 2015 0:13:18 GMT -5
Thanks for the info I figured maybe it was just the outside edge that was supposed to be fixed to the drive shaft since the slider plate doesn't really have anything to grip onto other than the smooth surface of the drive shaft. I did set some zip ties onto all of my lines today. Prior to that everything was just loosely connected. And I think I might have seen a slight crack on the intake manifold. I'll re-check my vacuum lines in the morning and maybe apply some permatex gasket maker to the outside of the intake manifold where I saw that crack. Also, on another subject, I've seen videos and pictures of people with roughed up variators, so the belt has something to grip onto other than a shiny slick surface. I noticed that all of the surfaces where my belt grips have nearly a mirror-like surface. Would it be a good idea to sand things up a bit to help the belt grip more? And I'm pretty sure I've asked this before, but should there be air bubbles in the fuel lines? I replaced my fuel lines with clear stuff so I can see what's going on inside. There's a big air pocket in the line just before the petcock, and another just before the carb drain line. I noticed some air bubbles coming up at a pretty fast rate from the carb drain line. I checked the valve at the end and it seems to be tightly closed and the connection between the valve and the line is air-tight. I also couldn't see any fuel leaking anywhere, and the valve felt dry. It just doesn't seem normal to me. Wouldn't fuel flow much easier without air bubbles in the lines?
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Post by Fox on Feb 13, 2015 0:35:23 GMT -5
Sanding the variator won't make any difference. If you got grease on the clutch pads and clutch bell that caused slippage the clutch pads may have a shiny glaze on them that you can scuff off with some sandpaper. Scratching up the clutch bell some can't hurt either.
If your belt looks shiny on the sides then it has gotten too hot and it's on it's way out.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 13, 2015 0:54:11 GMT -5
Awesome info. Thanks again. Fox. I'll post an update soon
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Post by 90GTVert on Feb 13, 2015 10:41:00 GMT -5
Where the ramp plate and drive boss ride on the crank should be smooth. Neither should have to be forced on. They need to be sort of snug, so there's not much clearance, but should slide on easily. If you have to use force then you should inspect the ID of the ramp plate and check the shaft as well for burrs or roughness. Even on the Minarelli where there are splines on the crank all the way back, the splined ramp plate should not have to be forced on or off.
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