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Post by Deleted on Feb 13, 2015 18:59:24 GMT -5
thanks for the info vert. I finally fixed the starter today. Turns out one of the pins on the big 9 pin connector at the front was bent. I probably did it when I forgot my keys when I went to pick up the scooter from work after leaving it over night. I pulled one of the connectors to hotwire it lol. Anyways, it's working now! I haven't done anything with the ramp that might cause the ID to be any smaller or any burrs. It's definitely snug, but takes a bit of force for it to slide on. I'm thinking since I haven't done anything to it, this must be the way it is stock. Would it be a good idea to open up the ID just a bit so it slides on easily? The drive boss and the part of the variator where the belt slides onto slide on easily. It's just the first piece that goes on that is a bit snug.
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Post by Fox on Feb 13, 2015 21:00:49 GMT -5
As long as it will slide on and off then it's okay cause it doesn't move once installed.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 14, 2015 15:33:21 GMT -5
Thanks for the affirmation of my suspicions Fox Working on getting the seat fixed up today. The metal piece the latch grabs onto has popped up through the plastic, with some plastic still attached. I globbed on some JB weld. The plastic cylinders where the seat bolts onto the chassy at the bottom are busted off. I fabricated some new ones using a bit of PVC with an oversized washer JB welded onto that, so it can bolt on to the frame. To attache the pvc pieces to the seat, I used some gorilla foaming glue to stick a piece of plywood to the underside of the seat, and gorilla glued the pvc to that. When it's all dried I'll drill holes out through the plywood to access the bolts through the top side of the seat. The plastic nubs where it bolts to the chassy at the top are also busted out. the nubs themselves are still there, but the bottoms of them are gone. I haven't decided yet what I'm going to do about them. Hopefully all the glue will hold. I think the JB weld should do fine. I don't think the plywood will come off the bottom of the seat, but it's possible the gorilla glue might come off the pvc. I might figure out a way to apply extra glue there just in case. Given the quality of the seat in original condition is not the greatest, and it still holds up for a while for most riders, I think my glue job should do just fine.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 14, 2015 15:48:03 GMT -5
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Post by katastroff on Feb 14, 2015 17:27:39 GMT -5
Nice sharp pointy wire cutting block plate.
I suggest a bit of filling/grinding on it.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 14, 2015 18:48:45 GMT -5
Yeah lol, that's the plan. It's a sawsall blade. The only piece of metal I had laying around that might be suitable . I'll either grind off the blade or order an actual block plate. It's still hesitating quite a bit and feels under powered. I removed the filter from the air box and tried running it like that for a bit and there's a HUGE increase in power. Now I'm thinking of getting one of those cone filters that just attache to the carb.
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Post by Fox on Feb 14, 2015 21:06:06 GMT -5
I like the sawzall blade. Very ingenuitive! Any time you modify the air flow you gotta check the plug color after a short 5-10 minute ride. Lean means POWER but it also means ENGINE DAMAGE form excessive heat. The electrodes should be brown with a ring of black on the thread ends. Brown with a slight touch of gray is also acceptable. You may be able to adjust the clip on the carburetor fuel pin to richen it up if need be with the increased air flow. Moving the clip down = richer. Running with no filter is not a good idea. Try a run and a plug check after reinstalling the filter element and removing the little rubber restrictor tube inside the air box cover. You can drill holes in the cover to increase flow as well without by-passing the filter element. The stock air boxes are just as good as a foam sock type if you drill holes in them. The trick is to drill just enough holes to get the brown plug. If you already know all this stuff then tell me to shut up. lol
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Post by Deleted on Feb 15, 2015 2:05:30 GMT -5
Fox, u da man bro! I just found that restrictor when I went to put the filter back on. AND I just thought of popping a couple holes in the box lol Nothing that big though, I was thinking of doing a few smaller sized holes one or two at a time until I can get it right. I will do a test tomorrow to check the plug for richness and see if I can get it dialed in with a few holes drilled I did step the pin down a notch when I re-jetted the carb as well
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Post by Deleted on Feb 15, 2015 15:38:39 GMT -5
Hey wouldn't it be a better idea to make the holes on the bottom to keep rain out of the air box?
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Post by Fox on Feb 15, 2015 15:58:09 GMT -5
Yeah probably. I never ride in the rain so I drilled the top on that one. Even drilling on the bottom it will probably still suck in some water spray coming off the tires but there's something that feels better mentally when you picture them on the bottom. I'm not sure but I don't think that the vacuum in the air box is so high that it would draw a bunch of water out of a soaked filter element into the engine. I think that any water that makes it's way into the box will stay in the filter and run to the bottom while still in the filter element and gravity drain out the hole that's already in the air box bottom just for that especially if the holes are drilled at the rear of the box furthest away from the carburetor.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 15, 2015 19:36:24 GMT -5
I think I've got it dialed in. I didn't have my phone with me to take a pic, but the spark plug has a very light orange tinge to it now, pretty much identical to "ideal" in the pictures of spark plugs I've seen. I was riding all day and heard a rubbing sound coming from the front end. I figured maybe my fender was rubbing so I tightened up the bolt that holds it in place. Still heard the sound coming from the front, and my steering felt a bit odd. I pulled in at the auto parts store to check.. Turns out I was riding around all day with a flat front tire. The valve stem looked pretty bad, and I can't afford tires right now, so I went ahead and replaced that real quick since I was at the auto parts store. Pulled it across the street to the gas station to air it up and managed to get the tire to seal and viola. No leaks. The glue dried up on my seat finally. I had to drill out the holes in the washer and bend the tabs on the frame where the seat mounts, but it fits nicely now It looks like shit now with plywood and glue, but it's holding up nicely, and it was basically a free fix. Original Gorilla Glue is awesome for bonding anything to wood. JB weld is the greatest at bonding anything else Both are tougher than nails when fully dry.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 15, 2015 21:11:57 GMT -5
It's running a lot better now. No more hesitation, but the last 1/3 of the throttle seem to be doing nothing.
It just feels like it's at full throttle at 2/3 throttle and the last 1/3 doesn't really increase power any.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 15, 2015 21:57:41 GMT -5
Okay, so.. A bit of logical process of elimination to fix this.. The engine is getting plenty of air through the intake. The fuel/air mixture is right on the mark. I was thinking, maybe if the exhaust was opened up a bit, it might run better. But... it pulls much more air with the filter removed than with it on with holes punched where it is currently. So the exhaust can't be bottlenecking things.. So I started thinking, maybe the diaphragm is messed up. I took the sucker apart again, this time with a better idea of how things work. Since there is a constant force being applied by the spring from above, and the only way a 2nd force can be applied is from air pressure from the slot indicated in the photo, which is below the diaphragm. In order to raise the diaphragm there must be a positive airflow from the slot. I started it up with just the diaphragm, and not the cap or spring. revving the engine WOT, the diaphragm doesn't move. I used my finger to manually LIFT the diaphragm up, and there's a strong force pulling it down, which tells me there is air being sucked out through the indicated slot, not blowing in. ALSO when I lifted the diaphragm up, the engine sounded MUCH more powerful than usual which tells me this is the correct area to diagnose the problem. Now I'm left with the question, why is air being sucked out of this chamber, instead of being forced in when I pull the throttle?
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Post by Fox on Feb 15, 2015 22:35:49 GMT -5
I am not sure about the diaphragm issue you perceive but one thing I see in the picture is that your carburetor is not pushed all the way into the intake boot so you may have an air leak there. Loosen the clamp and shove that thing all the way in til the little tab on the carb fits between the two rubber tabs on the boot and re-tighten the clamp.
Also, it looks as if someone put some kind of sealant around the edge of the diaphragm. It's not supposed to have any sealant on there. Have you removed the diaphragm and held it up to a light to check for cracks/holes?
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Post by Deleted on Feb 15, 2015 23:07:28 GMT -5
Yeah no holes in the diaphragm. I will have to try pushing the carb up a bit in the morning. I saw some car driving around and then parked across the street for a few minutes before it left. Pretty sure it was the HOA. I'm not 100% sure on all the HOA rules but I'm just playing it safe for the rest of the night lol.
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