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Post by 2stroked on May 19, 2015 6:54:12 GMT -5
The first time I took the clutch nut off of my scoot, it damn near took the force of the good Lord himself to break it free. I used a 24 inch pipe wrench, and a 7 pound dead blow shop hammer. It took me an inordinate amount of time. I am talking hours or whacking the shit out of the wrench, as well as rocking the bike back and forth to hit the wrench on the concrete.
It was by NO means easy, but didn't even stand a chance of damaging anything. Well, anything other than knuckles.
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Post by 90GTVert on May 19, 2015 8:34:40 GMT -5
The dude with a vice may be me. The first vid I ever posted about scoots was using a vice and oil filter wrench to remove the clutch nut because ZTR was trying to claim some ultra-expensive tool was necessary to do the job on another forum I was on. I never owned the socket to do it with an impact for years after owning a scoot, so I've done it a lot with a vice and oil filter wrench. I did it when I worked on scoots for customers years ago. I've done it to scoots that have never had the CVT cover off. I actually just used this method last week, post with pics in my T2 build thread for proof, when utility workers put my power out and I needed to work on the CVT. I greatly prefer the impact and socket because it takes about 10 seconds to put my feet on the clutch to keep anything from flying off and zip it off, but the vice works at least in many cases.
When my power was out I did grab and adjustable wrench because it seems so easy in the vid and I've never tried it. Hit it a few times and the wrench came off so I just put it in the vice and it was done quick and easy. I can see where your method has a benefit, but as others said I do advise being cautious with the bearings inside the rear fixed half. Mostly if you take a few wacks at it and the bolt starts moving, I'd think you'd want to be very sure you aren't putting pressure on the bearings.
I'm in no way doubting you had trouble with the other methods, I've seen stuff an impact gun won't take off. Just broke a wheel stud off of a car recently with a breaker bar since my impact wouldn't budge it because a Nissan tech doesn't know how to start a nut by hand instead of with an impact to avoid cross threading.
I think it's a neat idea and thank you for sharing it with us. I've marked the thread and may move the vid and some comments... or the whole thing... into the tech library, but for now I wanna leave the whole thing open.
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Post by 2TDave on May 19, 2015 10:04:00 GMT -5
My concern with damage to the pulley is that if I hit off center holding the wrench the wrench comes off. If you lock the wrench on with your piece of alloy and hit off center and the wrench can't come off then that energy must travel somewhere. I'm no engineer but it seems it would travel through your threaded rod and end at one of 2 points that are tight against the pulley or TD boss.
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Post by fe53series3 on May 19, 2015 10:25:52 GMT -5
all I can say is a cordless impact really prevents alot of headaches when working on these things haha Yes I have to agree. I was considering giving up, and going to a garage...... but I figured I'd do it myself. The major problem is that these nuts (or this nut) was not designed for a spanner. It's simply punched out of steel plate. The nut flats are only flat in name. The nut has no flat surfaces for a spanner to locate. Hence why I believe it was meant only for socket use. The supposed 'flat' is in fact peaked ridge: So before putting it back, I'm gonna have create the flats on all sides.
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Post by Fox on May 19, 2015 11:52:03 GMT -5
That the nut could be a bit thicker and have actual corners couldn't it? Maybe I will get a machine shop to make a bunch that are twice as thick and sell them on Ebay for $12.95 a pop to get me out of my poverty stricken lifestyle.
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Post by 90GTVert on May 19, 2015 11:54:16 GMT -5
In some cases a thicker nut could cause contact with the bell and lock your bell to the rear pulley basically.
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Post by Fox on May 19, 2015 12:02:20 GMT -5
In some cases a thicker nut could cause contact with the bell and lock your bell to the rear pulley basically. Dammit! I guess I was born to suffer.
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Post by fe53series3 on May 19, 2015 12:28:40 GMT -5
That the nut could be a bit thicker and have actual corners couldn't it? Maybe I will get a machine shop to make a bunch that are twice as thick and sell them on Ebay for $12.95 a pop to get me out of my poverty stricken lifestyle. I had exactly the same thought However, I do remember on a certain vid, one guy was using a proper machined nut. I think Peugeot simply chose the cheapest option (the thread is also pathetic), on the basis that this nut would only be removed with a socket. Anyway, I've hand filed the flats, and the adjustable now fits snugly. It's all together again.
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Post by 2stroked on May 22, 2015 8:58:51 GMT -5
I actually thought those nuts where like a crank bolt on automobile engines. You remove it once than change it out for a new one. Maybe I am wrong.
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Post by 2stroked on May 22, 2015 9:28:35 GMT -5
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Post by fe53series3 on May 22, 2015 13:05:53 GMT -5
I actually thought those nuts where like a crank bolt on automobile engines. You remove it once than change it out for a new one. Maybe I am wrong. Hmmmmm! No way am I going to be changing a nut, just because I've unscrewed it! You may be right...... but on examination...... this nut was so badly made, that there can have been no pre-defined conditions associated with it IMHO. I think it was designed to be hammered on and hammered off. Anyway..... I've tickled it up a bit, and I have confidence that it'll be fine RE: cross threading........ nightmare
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Post by 2stroked on May 22, 2015 13:21:48 GMT -5
Yeah, I get what your saying. You're scoot may actually have been built better than some of the Chinese scoots we have/work on. My ETon, has the vin prefix that say it was built in Taiwan. Also. As an interesting side bar, a bit of internet snooping, has told me that at one point, ETon was owned by Mitsubishi. Now Alpha Motorsports owns the brand.
Back to subject, I don't replace the nut everytime it comes off, but I did replace the stock piece of threaded sheet metal that passed for a nut at the factory.
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Post by Fox on May 22, 2015 13:44:54 GMT -5
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Post by Elektrey on May 22, 2015 14:22:26 GMT -5
Lol, what would make it need replacing?
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Post by 2stroked on May 22, 2015 14:44:00 GMT -5
They are made of cheap weak pot steel. The threads are super fine, threads are super shallow... There's a reason to toss the stock nut for a better one from the hardware store. I just replaced my stock one when I first took my clutch nut off s year or so ago. I had to toss it I couldn't bring my self to reuse the super thin super flimsy nut. The one I used to replace it is just slightly thicker, but you can tell by touching them better steel.
I ain't sayin replace it everytime, I just said that I figured the cheaply made nuts were meant to be changed. If ( super slim chance, like maybe half of one percent ) that fuc*: comes loose while your riding...
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