|
Post by Elektrey on May 21, 2015 22:35:52 GMT -5
Who the heck designs a scooter or motorcycle that the front tire hits the frame or fairings when it bottoms out? By any chance, did that company have 3 engineers...one name Larry, one named Curly and one named Moe? It's a chinese scooter so no they weren't named that.... but yes 3 engineers for the whole 139QMB scooter design seems probable.
|
|
|
Post by Fox on May 21, 2015 22:50:13 GMT -5
Like I said I have come across a bunch of those that rub when you hit the brakes so it's gotta be a design flaw or the forks needed more oil or something. I never really got into fork oil replacement or fork seal replacement. I just replaced them with a new one(s)
More oil in the fork = stiffer fork right?
|
|
|
Post by humanshield on May 21, 2015 23:26:55 GMT -5
Like I said I have come across a bunch of those that rub when you hit the brakes so it's gotta be a design flaw or the forks needed more oil or something. Sure but....front tire hits frame...two things are possible....tire could eventually rip...people on the road...or...tire stops turning...people on the road again....actually one more.....people lose steering control....again people using an asphalt loofah. No recall? Where's the outrage? Are those 3 engineers still working?
|
|
|
Post by Elektrey on May 21, 2015 23:30:57 GMT -5
There probably semi-retired until the EPA guidelines change and they have to revise their 139QMB model
|
|
|
Post by 2TDave on May 22, 2015 6:00:30 GMT -5
There is a write up by Upgrayedd in the suspension and frame tech section on changing the fork oil and adding spacers to stiffen up the front end. I just did spacers last weekend and it is a huge improvement!
|
|
|
Post by tremella on May 22, 2015 6:33:23 GMT -5
There is a write up by Upgrayedd in the suspension and frame tech section on changing the fork oil and adding spacers to stiffen up the front end. I just did spacers last weekend and it is a huge improvement! I'll look for that! I am really glad to know that this is leading toward a "known issue" with bottoming out related to the forks rather than major damage from an accident or something. The spacers thing sounds complicated (like a part I have to buy and not sure where to get from) but I will look for the write up. I was hoping to just change some fork oil that I could get from the NAPA auto that's close to my house, but I was reading somewhere that some scooters don't even use a hydraulic mechanism in their forks (just springs and grease?). I can't wait to take it apart and take lots of pictures for you guys though. Really grateful I found this forum. I've been to Stuart, FL, what a neat little town.
|
|
|
Post by 2TDave on May 22, 2015 6:49:33 GMT -5
You won't need anything you can't get at Napa and Home Depot. Use the search key and type fork oil, scroll until you see Upgrayedd's post. Where do you live?
|
|
|
Post by tremella on May 22, 2015 7:08:35 GMT -5
That write up was awesome!! So I will need, Valvoline Automatic Transmission Fluid ATF+4 Synthetic, two 1/4"x1" diameter washer, and two 1/2" CPVC Pipe Cap.
"The washers were 10 cents a piece, and the CPVC caps were 24 cents a piece, bringing the total cost of this mod to well under one dollar"--this is perfect, I hope they will have these at NAPA Auto parts, since its close, anything else might be a hassle.
A few days ago I tried taking the break caliper off to clean the break pads, but I couldn't loosen those bolts- they are on there so tight! I will try again though per the instructions to get the fork assembly out.
This scooter really has such a minimal job to do and I hope I can get it in good enough condition to just do the simple job I need it to do: I just need it to ride the two miles to Whole Foods and carry about 30-40 lbs. of groceries. It's residential streets the whole way but I'd like it to go at least 15 miles per hour as an average speed - right now it barely does 8!! I can run that fast! So after I get this bottoming out issue taken care of I probably need to clean the carburetor and replace the cheap Chinese fuel lines to get it performing better? 8mph is just so sad, and its more like 2mph when going up a hill.
|
|
|
Post by Fox on May 22, 2015 10:09:35 GMT -5
Sometimes the factory will over do it on the thread lock glue on those caliper bolts. I have actually snapped one off trying to loosen it before. WD40 or similar penetrating oils don't help in that situation. I had to use a propane torch to burn off the thread lock to get the broken piece out of the caliper bracket.
I guess what I'm trying to say is heat is usually the solution on those but you may not need to remove that bracket at all. Once the wheel is removed the caliper may simply slide off the bracket.
|
|
|
Post by Elektrey on May 22, 2015 10:57:10 GMT -5
take a hex key, make sure it's the right one and not imperial/metric of an ALMOST the same size.
the longer the hex key the better. stick it in the bolt, and get a mallet and hit the end of the hex key while holding on to the part that goes into the bolt for guidance.
if that doesn't work, blast it with WD40 and give it some time to set in. You can also try taking a piece of sandpaper to the hex key's flat sides to sharped up the edges of it to get a better grip.
About your "8mph" yeah something is definitely off there can't tell what though. We will look into it after this issue is fixed.
I can tell you that that scooter should do at least 35mph stock.
|
|
|
Post by tremella on May 27, 2015 12:03:07 GMT -5
Ok so I finally got around to doing what I said I was going to do. I only got this far though... To me, the fork assembly does not look bent or damaged, just that the forks appear to be in a compressed position and stuck there, hopefully what's causing the bottoming out. But the forks will not slide out of the tree until they are uncapped and I can't uncap them!?! What size bolt is this? It's too big for any of the socket wrench sizes that I have and I tried an adjustable wrench and a hammer and it looks that that is just going to strip it? What size is it so I know what size socket wrench to buy? And even if I get one, these things are on there so tight I just don't know if I have the strength to get them off. The hammer on the handle method has worked for some of the other stuff but its starting to feel overwhelming. Here is the picture I took. I can take more if needed. Thanks for all your help! i.imgur.com/XBk2a0W.jpg
|
|
|
Post by tremella on May 27, 2015 13:00:37 GMT -5
well the good news is that with the plastics removed and the rear break cable tucked over to the side, and me pulling on and messing around with the forks has resolved the issue, no rubbing lol. But I am pretty sure they are badly in need of oil and if I hit a bump, they'd be right back into their compressed positions. I really need to get that nut off, I measured it, its 1.5 cm (or 5/8 of an inch) does that mean I need a 5/8 socket wrench?
|
|
|
Post by Elektrey on May 27, 2015 13:05:22 GMT -5
I think (not sure) that bolts are measured diagonally in the largest measurement.
Is it hard to get off, or is it just spinning without loosening at all?
if its the second, you may need an impact to do it.
I would say measure whatever part of the bolt you want, but when you go to buy a socket, measure the same thing and make sure it matches up.
|
|
|
Post by tremella on May 27, 2015 13:13:49 GMT -5
I measured it flatside to flatside, I'll try again. So far, it is just hard to get off, at first I stabilized it with a pipe wrench but then I realized it was a better idea to just put the two bolts that clamp the fork in place back - and that keep the fork from spinning (immobilizing the cap) but I just don't seem to have the strength to budge it, but I was using an adjustable wrench (probably not ideal but I have no experience and limited tools - I'm getting more experience as I go and I can get new tools). So I guess my next step is to try again with the correct socket wrench when I get it. I guess I am stuck for now, it feels like the wheel is spinning so much better now that it is not rubbing. I'm sure it still has major problems keeping it from getting up to speed besides the wheel though.
|
|
|
Post by Fox on May 27, 2015 13:23:33 GMT -5
Ride the scooter a mechanic/car repair shop and ask them if they can loosen them for you. Then have them tighten them back but just snug tight so you can get them off at home. While you are there find out the right size socket. Hand the guy a couple bucks and ride home.
|
|