|
Post by triesandluth on Jul 30, 2015 0:17:45 GMT -5
I just came across something... Demagnetation of my flywheel? Was reading on stators and saw that. I'm going to try to put a different one on there and see if it is different
|
|
|
Post by 90GTVert on Jul 31, 2015 9:36:32 GMT -5
You can see if something steel like a bolt or screwdriver sticks tot he inside of the flywheel, though I don't know how well you'd be able to tell if it were just weak.
Checked for good grounds? Near 0 resistance from the point you're testing to the batt - or frame.
If you have an old spark plug, you can cut the ground strap off for a better spark tester. If the spark will jump the big gap between the center and the base consistently then spark shouldn't be your problem.
|
|
|
Post by triesandluth on Jul 31, 2015 11:07:35 GMT -5
The magnet in the flywheel seems extraordinary. I checked the resistances with the numbers elektry gave me. I can see a good distance arc of spark when holding a plug away from a metal surface. It just doesn't seem to have that power of the other scooters I have. Like said in what I did today on my scooter, I ran it well until stopping to idle. Then wouldn't stay started well. I took the carb apart this morning, fully disassembled it, found some junk under the fitting that the float needle goes into, so I cleared that. Reassembled, and again it won't start. It drives me crazy, I've brought cheap run down scooters back to life, and my nice, over paid for scooter is getting the best of me. I guess the lack of easily available parts doesn't help much.
|
|
|
Post by fatfridgy on Jun 7, 2016 19:47:32 GMT -5
Hi all. Not sure if my stator is cactus also. Just got my first scooter tgb r50x 2006 12,000km on the clock. Wasn't running when I got it. After pulling it down found it didn't have rings in it. Re horned the bore and replaced them. (No they were not in the exhaust or bottom end). Compression now 95psi. I have spark (blue white colour) gap is 0.8mm. new plug and coil is reading 6k ohm. New battery. Turns over fine and I get suction also when I remove the plug me place my thumb over the plug hole when removed. I feel suction on carby side also. Can spray airostart own carby without it firing also. It's like the timming is out. O leaks on crank seals as far as I can tell. Plug ends up being wet with fuel after a few revolutions. Also tried adding airostart to the empty piston chamber when I remove the plug. Have replaced the CSI now also with a Chinese non restricted type and the light for that flashes when cranked.
Ge5 engine 8 pole Stator with ge90 flywheel resistances 186ohms black/red to earth 0.6ohms whi/red to earth 0.5ohms yel/whi to earth Pickup blue/yel to earth 140ohms
Anyone have any idea.
Thaught maybe I need a new genuine Cdi. Even though it also developed spark. Original Cdi is a 6 pin with green plug.
The on line manual wiring only shows 5 pin wiring. The extra cable I have was black cut and then joined to a brown cable. Not sure where it goes yet.
No Kick start. It's been cut off but internals are still present. I have never seen this thing run yet and don't know it's history but only paid $350aud
Help. I live in Adelaide south Australia.
|
|
|
Post by 190mech on Jun 7, 2016 20:01:26 GMT -5
95psi is a bit low,did you check piston to cylinder clearance,ring end gap?Blue spark should at least make a pop...
|
|
|
Post by fatfridgy on Jun 7, 2016 21:44:24 GMT -5
I downloaded a manual for the ga5 and through its specs I'm within tolerance for both bore and piston measured as described for 50cc. They describe comp as between 90 psi and 70 psi min. So I thaught I was covered there. I honed it myself as I have done several times before on other 4 stroke engines good even cross hatching. Bore Is true top to bottom without any ridges. Ring end gap when flush is also within spec.
|
|
|
Post by niz76 on Jun 7, 2016 22:24:33 GMT -5
If you want a good one-kick-wonder scoot, it should really be around 140psi or more (120 would be ok)... Usually they're kinda hard to start with anything less than 100psi. I have hand honed many cylinders myself and it is legit if done correctly. One of my other favorite ways to gain compression is to tighten up the squish clearance (make the combustion chamber a bit smaller). Is there a head gasket that can be removed (assuming you have enough squish clearance of course)?
I would go with the stock CDI for now until you get it started and running- those China "racing" can advance timing a bit too much at start/idle and make it more difficult to start.
|
|
|
Post by ThomasTPFL on Jun 7, 2016 23:00:20 GMT -5
The six wires versus five pins on the CDI is due to the fact that the wiring is set up to accept either a DC or an AC CDI.
Drove me nuts when I got my Key West until I figured it out.
The '09 Key West I have does not have a restricted CDI. The '04 Delivery does. Just runs like ass once you hit about 30mph. I swapped to a cheapo blue CDI but still have the stock one zip tied in there for a quick change over as I've heard awful things about failure rates on the blue boxes.
|
|
|
Post by fatfridgy on Jun 7, 2016 23:43:02 GMT -5
Cheers guys, will try a stock cdi I think. While I'm waiting for that might check out the squish I have. There is a 0.3 to 0.5mm ish aluminium head gasket in there.
|
|
|
Post by fatfridgy on Jun 8, 2016 0:44:56 GMT -5
Next question. Anyone have any links to a genuine tgb r50x 6 pin cdi that's not $100 or more delivered to south Australia. Not sure if I need the extra pin or not. As posted above it is an ac dc option I'm lead to believe. Can I just get away with any tgb 5 pin cdi. Wiring in the manual doesn't detail this.
|
|
|
Tgb r50x
Jun 8, 2016 12:17:39 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by ThomasTPFL on Jun 8, 2016 12:17:39 GMT -5
I haven't run across any for less than about $60 new, and thats from US sellers.
So far I'm having decent luck with my Chinese blue unit. It's not plug and play. I luckily had a plug from a parts bike that matched what's on the CDI so I built a pig tail for it to keep from having to hack the stock harness.
|
|
|
Post by pinkscoot on Jun 11, 2016 18:02:26 GMT -5
My Hyosung SF50 with the Morini engine had the same symptoms as yours and I was told to go with the stock CDI. I paid the big bucks and it started on the second kick.
|
|
|
Post by fatfridgy on Jul 31, 2016 23:33:55 GMT -5
Any idea what the diferance is with the stock 6 pin green red and black units. My local dealer in Adelaide sa can only get me a restricted red unit at $179. I did get a stator while I was cashed up and my resistances are as posted above so I recon my stator was also at fault.
|
|
|
Tgb r50x
Jul 31, 2016 23:57:07 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by ThomasTPFL on Jul 31, 2016 23:57:07 GMT -5
I'm using a Genuine Buddy CDI on my TGB with no problems.
|
|
|
Post by fatfridgy on Aug 9, 2016 5:27:10 GMT -5
Here is another one for you guys. Still trying to scrape up a bit of spare cash to get that cdi. But I had a little time up my sleeve and got curious. Hooked up my timming light to the r50x. Marked tdc on the flywheel and tried it out. The weight on the flywheel lines up about 10mm into the 50mm long area that the pickup would sence. Tried Turing it over. No light came from my strobe. When I removed the plug from the block and viewed it again I got spark and my light strobes on about 15 deg btdc at turn over speed. What the? Does this mean my kill switch circuit is dodgy?
|
|