Hi guys.. So im from slovenia a very small country in europe.. I bought a used matrix for 60€.. It didnt run when i got it.. After some fiddling around i found that the carburator didnt have its main jet!?!?!.. Its a dellorto 17.5 phva.. With manual choke.. Also the cylinder and piston had seized up..
Luckily i had a used s6 streetrace cylinder and a new naraku 70cc piston.. After i examined the pistons they look the same.. So i put all that together and now it runs like hell.. I get 80kph wot..
The problem i have now is the electricity.. I had bought a new battery and when i turn the key nothing happens.. I have measured the voltage coming to the ignition lock (battery 12.5v.. at the lock 11.9) but when i turn the key the voltage at the lock drops to 0.1 volts.. I have checked all grounds on the scooter and they seem to be fine.. I tottaly dissasembled the lock and didnt found nothing suspicious..
Btw it starts with kick start in an instant..
I would also like to know if you guys can tell me what weight would i need with the roller weights.. At least to be somewhere in the ball park..
My setup atm:
-S6 streetrace 70cc -Hebo next generation variator (17x12 wights) atm i have 16x13 3g wights (the only ones i have on me) -stock clutch with blue clutch springs and white counter spring -dellorto 17.5 phva with 90 main jet -technigas next r exhaust
You would need a wire drawing, to pin point this. I can tell you how it works. And maybe that will help.
Your igniton / lock is not related to charging system. At least on the scoots I see.
The stator produces AC output on 2 wires. Yellow & White. You can test these for resistance to check the integrity of the stator coils. A good coil will have a value, or range of resistance. It will vary with temperature & stator manufacturer. But you can get a good idea of the condition of the charging coils, from there "disconnected" / coil resistance. & AC output voltage, while running @ 2000RPM
Next is the voltage, regulator / rectifier. I takes all voltage not being consumed and both regulates & rectifies it to 13-13.5 volts AC & DC. It uses a bridge diode to rectfiy it. And controls the voltage by taking anything over 13.5 Vac and shunting it to ground.
So by theory, the regulator is in line with the system. If the diodes bridge check's out it should rectify to DC. If it is working on the regulator side the voltage will be lowered to 13.5. If bad, voltage will be over the 13.5 range and You will start blowing bulbs from over-voltage. The DC rectified side you will see not see DC voltage.
The majority of regulators go bad on the regulation side. Headlight bulb's blowing out are the common complaint.
A good battery is important for the charging is limited, and a bad battery will sap out most of the power. And not store it. Since your battery is new it "should" be okay.
What is your actual complaint? Is the turn signals & horn working?
Thanks corrosion for the help.. Actualy what i did was this:
I had to add another positive wire from the battery to the ignition lock.. Looks like the one who is wraped in the wiiring harnes isnt okaj.. I hope that none of the wires got striped somewhere beetween of the rewiving process..
Well i ended up ordering 6.5g weights.. I hope i will be somewhere in the upper powerband with these.. I would really like to know at what rpm is my max power.. Butt i guess i cant know that without a dyno.. ?
You can figure out where the power is with trial and error tuning. You have to try weights, record the RPM that you're seeing, and the results you get. If you do it that way, you'll see where the power is by where you get the best results.
Last Edit: Aug 1, 2015 17:54:09 GMT -5 by 90GTVert
If you have a tach, make yourself a note of the RPM where it's pulling well or at least the operating range and it'll help you sort out the tune more quickly in the future with this combo.