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Post by hobie16 on May 29, 2016 20:54:44 GMT -5
I’m still having trouble with the engine cutting out. Symptoms are:
Cuts out intermittently first ride of the day. If I stop somewhere I have no further problems even if the stop is for ten minutes.
So far I’ve:
Replaced vacuum accuated petcock on fuel tank and the vacuum line to the intake manifold
Replaced fuel line and filter
Replaced carburetor
Disconnected the EGR and capped off the vacuum port
I’m now thinking it’s ignition issues. I pulled the wires off the the coil and CDI box, cleaned and put dielectric grease on them. Still cuts out but it didn’t seem as bad. That may mean nothing as two days ago I got five miles before it cut out.
Any ideas? I’m thinking about replacing the coil and CDI box next but looking through Amazon just gets confusing as the reviews range from very good to don’t waste your money.
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Post by Fox on May 29, 2016 21:01:06 GMT -5
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Post by arkie on May 29, 2016 23:27:15 GMT -5
I would also suggest making sure your ground contacts are good and tight.
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Post by hobie16 on May 30, 2016 0:57:06 GMT -5
I'll check the grounds.
I'm not clear why valve need to be adjusted for this problem. The scoot starts immediately and runs good until the engine cuts out completely.
I'm also not clear why adjusting the idle would help. I'm usually doing 30 to 35 mph when the problem occurs.
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Post by arkie on May 30, 2016 1:49:27 GMT -5
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Post by Fox on May 30, 2016 2:33:41 GMT -5
The valves control everything. If a valve gets tight, (no gap at all) then it never closes completely so you lose compression in the cylinder and that also means you lose vacuum to the intake. These two things cause the engine to run erratically. It usually first shows up as stalling occasionally and then it slowly gets worse so it will start and run fine when cold and then run crappy hot and then eventually it won't start easily and runs really crappy even when cold and then one day it just fails to start. Answer me this: If you work the kick lever slowly with your hand, does it fight you and the get easy and then fight you over and over or does the resistance feel weak as you push the lever down? The compression should fight you pretty hard. If not then I betcha you have a tight valve. The idle mixture screw controls the air/fuel ratio when your stopped idling. It puts the engine in a healthy idle state when the vacuum and everything else is correct so when you crack open the throttle on take-off the engine responds instantly instead of stumbling. It's a crucial adjustment. The idle speed screw is not the same thing. I have been a long time reader of many scooter forums. I've repaired hundreds of these GY6 based scooters over the past 11 years. Valve adjust is always one of the first things I check. Watch this animation for minute. It shows the 4 strokes of your engine and the valves opening and closing to allow in fuel/air and then expell the gasses after it goes BOOM. You need 3 things for the engine to run correctly. 1: Proper fuel air mix at all throttle positions 2: Compression (low compression = won't run) 3: Spark at the right time 1 - Intake stroke 2 - compression stroke 3 - combustion stroke 4 - exhaust stroke All 4 of those actions have to happen thousands of times a minute. A valve opening too soon or too late will mess up the whole show. Adjusting valves isn't as hard as you might think. Nothing to be intimidated by.  |
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Post by hobie16 on Jun 18, 2016 11:39:36 GMT -5
Fixed. Replaced coil/spark plug wire and plug. No change. Replaced CDI. Runs better than new.
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