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Post by chunk73 on Apr 6, 2011 9:39:22 GMT -5
Hi guys. I am now onto my next problem with my Triton R4. Yesterday it started up fine made it about two miles from my house and when coming to stop light the scooter turned off. Couldnt start it again with electric or kick start. Let it sit overnight and tried again today but no luck. I did some searching online but there are so many things to check, not sure where to start. When trying to kick start it I can smell fuel so I dont think it is the petcock device on the tank. Havent tested the spark plug yet.
Please let me know in what order you would troubleshoot as I dont want to spend too much unnecessary money if I dont have to.
As always thanks for the help.
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Post by 90GTVert on Apr 6, 2011 10:28:04 GMT -5
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Post by chunk73 on Apr 6, 2011 11:21:01 GMT -5
Thank you very much. I am going to start to work through the steps. One question though, will a bad battery really cause issues with starting? My electric start is cranking, my lights work, horn, etc. So I assume the battery is fine. Wouldnt my sccoter even start without a battery in it with the kick start? I was always under the impression that a battery is not required for the running of the engine. |
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Post by Reign on Apr 6, 2011 11:45:14 GMT -5
If everything electrical works, your battery and fuse are fine. You can move on from there. Honestly, the first thing I'd check before even going through most of those steps, is to check for spark. Section 9 will help you with that.
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Post by chunk73 on Apr 6, 2011 12:18:34 GMT -5
If everything electrical works, your battery and fuse are fine. You can move on from there. Honestly, the first thing I'd check before even going through most of those steps, is to check for spark. Section 9 will help you with that. Thanks, i will try that hopefully tonight. I got the scooter last march and first thing i did was replace the plug with an iridium. If it something as simple as this that would be great. |
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Post by 90GTVert on Apr 6, 2011 15:45:40 GMT -5
When using that guide, you should skip around as it indicates. For instance, if it cranks over fine skip to.... You don't need to do every check there, I just had to put a lot of info in one spot because all sorts of things can cause no start issues.
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Post by chunk73 on Apr 6, 2011 18:53:43 GMT -5
Tried a new plug, but still no go. One thing i noticed when trying to kick start it was that the kick starter is skipping now. Some of the times it went down all the way like it didnt catch at all and sometimes it would catch and try to start it. Does that offer more insight into what the problem could be?
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Post by Reign on Apr 6, 2011 19:19:53 GMT -5
Not really. Mine does that when I kick it a lot. By the way, changing the spark plug doesn't necessarily mean you have spark. It could be the ignition coil. I'd try it on the frame like the video shows.
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Post by drawkward on Apr 7, 2011 1:20:00 GMT -5
The kick starter is meant to be a back up. Both the starting disk and kick pinion gear (the parts that are slipping) can wear out very quickly if abused. Push the starter down softly until you feel it catch, then follow through quickly. Don't just slam it down uncontrollably. Now that they're already stripped, the slipping will only get worse. As for the troubleshooting, I'd say read up a bit through the trouble shooting guide. I side with Reign. I always check spark first when it won't start. |
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Post by chunk73 on Apr 9, 2011 12:01:14 GMT -5
Finally got a chance to test today. No spark when cranking the engine. I assume I should replace the ignition coil as a starting point. Can I test the voltage at the two wires going into the ignition coil with my multimeter? Should they be at a certain voltage when trying to start the engine?
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Post by Reign on Apr 9, 2011 12:21:53 GMT -5
Finally got a chance to test today. No spark when cranking the engine. I assume I should replace the ignition coil as a starting point. Can I test the voltage at the two wires going into the ignition coil with my multimeter? Should they be at a certain voltage when trying to start the engine? It may be hard for a digital multimeter to pick up the ignition coil voltage. After all, it's basically only "on" for a fraction of a second and then off again. Digital multimeters usually take at least a second or two to read the voltage. You could give it a try though. If it's not the ignition coil, the next thing would be the stator assembly. Those run around $50 to $60 on ebay and other places. I had to replace mine once, and it it turns out to be the issue, you'll need a big philips screwdriver. There's only 2 screws attaching it to the engine. Really easy to swap out. |
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dr1445
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 199
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Post by dr1445 on Apr 9, 2011 16:29:42 GMT -5
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Post by chunk73 on Apr 9, 2011 19:47:40 GMT -5
I changed my stator last year when I was having issues with my bulbs blowing out. Never ended up being the stator, was the regulator. I hope it is not the stator. I already have the flywheel puller but I would much rather it be the ignition coil. This one over at scrappy dog scooters doesnt look exactly like mine, is that OK? www.scrappydogscooters.com/50CC_2-STROKE_PARTS.htmlAlso was thinking of buying a new CDI just for the hell of it, the two parts are just $30. Do you think this two are good next steps? |
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Post by chunk73 on Apr 10, 2011 20:30:12 GMT -5
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Post by drawkward on Apr 10, 2011 22:52:00 GMT -5
Just by looking at the link name, I can tell that set is for a GY6 4 stroke, but from what I've heard, the CDI's work on the 2 strokes.
If you pull out your seat, you should see it on the right side of the scooter connected to the frame. On my scooters, they are located in that area - right next to the starter relay.
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