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Post by 190mech on May 16, 2017 8:30:55 GMT -5
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Post by Corrosion on May 16, 2017 9:15:46 GMT -5
Wow, that is unexpected. I wonder if it works on a OEM CDI? Does the capacitance value change the retard amount?
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Post by 190mech on May 16, 2017 9:56:57 GMT -5
Yes to both,most stock CDI's have some curve so a different capacitor may be needed..I tried (2) .47mfd caps wired in series and it halved the amount of change...
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Post by ryan_ott on May 16, 2017 11:16:34 GMT -5
That's amazing! Now there is going to be a shortage of capacitors.
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Post by niz76 on May 16, 2017 13:57:36 GMT -5
Yeah it is! Holy crap- we often pay big $$ for CDI's/parts just to get results like this! Thanks John!
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Post by niz76 on May 16, 2017 14:03:19 GMT -5
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Post by benji on May 16, 2017 17:36:01 GMT -5
So, which capacitors work for this? I just bought 2, one .47 mfd 50 volt and one .47 mfd 100 volt.
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Post by 190mech on May 16, 2017 19:28:46 GMT -5
If you read the KiwiBiker posts,Wobbly said .47mfd 200V cap,the 100v should work fine though..You will need to check your actual timing with a degree wheel and timing light and adjust the stator to get the best out of this mod..
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Post by oldgeek on May 16, 2017 19:33:48 GMT -5
If you read the KiwiBiker posts,Wobbly said .47mfd 200V cap,the 100v should work fine though..You will need to check your actual timing with a degree wheel and timing light and adjust the stator to get the best out of this mod.. So just where did you wire it in? Looks like you used a non polarized cap? |
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Post by 190mech on May 16, 2017 19:43:29 GMT -5
Right,its a generic "474" cap from a junk circuit board..Tie it in anywhere in the pulse(trigger)coil circuit,I used the CDI connector wire and grounded the other lead..Be sure to check the actual timing and adjust for best results!!
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Post by benji on May 16, 2017 19:58:46 GMT -5
 So, the 100v one should work? This one was $3 at the electronics store, and it was the expensive one haha. Where should the timing be adjusted to? |
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Post by 190mech on May 16, 2017 20:04:56 GMT -5
Use the 100V one,you'll want your max RPM timing to be 10-15 degrees,then the initial should be around 25-35 degrees..If that doesnt work with your setup a lesser value cap will give less retard and higher value ,more retard..
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Post by oldgeek on May 16, 2017 20:15:19 GMT -5
Right,its a generic "474" cap from a junk circuit board..Tie it in anywhere in the pulse(trigger)coil circuit,I used the CDI connector wire and grounded the other lead..Be sure to check the actual timing and adjust for best results!! Thanks! Gotta find me a timing light somewhere. I used to see them at the pawn shop all the time, but not since I decided to buy one. |
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Post by Lucass2T on May 17, 2017 0:15:41 GMT -5
This is awesome! Thanks for posting john!
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Post by 90GTVert on May 17, 2017 7:43:12 GMT -5
Make sure you listen for spark knock if you're messing with your timing. Get the engine hot (don't try to overheat it, I mean just normally hot from riding) and try slow rolls onto and off of the throttle and cruising at various throttle positions. If you start hearing it knock, you will need to back the timing out a degree or two and check again or use higher octane fuel (should be using premium pump gas at least) or sometimes adding a little fuel where it's knocking will cool it enough to do the trick. If you hear it knocking, stop riding however it knocks and retard the base timing ASAP.
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