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Post by dubloman on Jul 25, 2017 15:31:33 GMT -5
That is an amazing animation of the 2 stroke cycle, I was unaware (I am being honest) most won't) that the crank case is the mixing zone before it goes into the pot. This is why we have fluids in the crankcase....makes sense now....lol
We have as I mentioned in the previous post we have used thinner gaskets and we almost had her start.
With your help we are getting into the right place.
We are going to try again tomorrow so will see if we need to reduce the gasket thickness and I will go and buy some copper gasket to see if we can get better compression and do the leakdown test, compression test, squish test and make sure the mixture screw and tickover screw are in the right place and finally make sure the inlet and exhaust are sorted before we try again.............Oh and a full charge in the battery
If I have missed anything please let me know, so I can get it sorted before the next attempt
Thanks for everything and I will continue to feed back to this group as if I can help others with the process then I am very happy to do so
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Post by dubloman on Jul 25, 2017 15:36:02 GMT -5
I used another method to block the exhaust but keep seeing these freeze plugs, but they are engine core plugs.............what are they called in the UK rubber compression bungs??
I could do with using them instead of the way we have been using
Thanks
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Post by geoffh on Jul 25, 2017 15:48:29 GMT -5
Ok,so fuel in the crankcase and air box,and it,s been sitting,avoid the squish band diversion and look at the carb,your an HGV guy and these things are tiny and finicky, so go buy a cheap but brand new replacement carb $15 $20 it will be set close enough to get it to run.Just rebuild it ready to go,exhaust on air box on suck on the vacuum line to get fuel to your new carb fingers crossed,and kick start it begin with,a couple of kicks will prime the engine third kick whoopee (hopefully)If don,t go sit back and recheck your systems,then do a pressure test,my stock (ish)engine gets 147 psi, exhaust on throttle wide open .Let us know
geoff
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Post by geoffh on Jul 25, 2017 15:59:24 GMT -5
Dubloman,I was typing as you posted,so cut to the chase build and it up,most of the squish,pressure,port timing etc etc is for advanced tweaking were in the universe are you based.
geoff
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Post by dubloman on Jul 25, 2017 16:23:03 GMT -5
We have a big bore kit to put on the scooter but want to get it running first before putting it on.
If I spend money on a carb (where do you buy new carbs for $15 to $20) as I am in the UK. Plus if we were to buy a good carb for the 70cc big bore kit would it be usable on the 50cc first and then be good for the bigger bore?
I am sure you understand that we have to see if the engine is a runner before putting the big bore kit on but spending money on something that may only be used for a short time (even if it is the best option) and if I have too then I will)
If you can give me the best advice and if you can guide on the sym jet sport x carbs I would be grateful again
On a personal note diesel and petrol cars and HGV engines are mush easier than this and I am on a very steep learning curve. Give me a 56 ton MBT tank any day as I can fix them, this is a pain in the arse......lol
If anyone is in my local area Preston, Lancs, and you can give some help please shout up as I need the help.....clearly
Cheers
Dave
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Post by geoffh on Jul 26, 2017 14:42:06 GMT -5
Dave,I,m only in Wigan but your nearly there with your rebuild,your carb needle valve may stuck or the float needs adjusting,check Brents you tube video on this operation.New carb Ebay number 162603412271 £19.99 it,s a copy but they work well enough I,ve run one on my commuter Yamaha for six months with no issues.This carb will work with a 70 kit but will need re jetting to suit.Or strip the old carb down clean it,clean it again,blow some compressed air through the holes you can see check the needle valve seats properly and the float height is ok,clean the jets out by blowing through them,only two adjustment screws the centre one is for tick over,the outer one your idle mix screw,wind the idle mix fully in then two and a half times out.While the block is off (scooter types refer to it as the barrel)check the piston it should have a arrow on it, the arrow points to the exhaust.If all that fails see you Sunday .Keep us posted geoff
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Post by dubloman on Jul 28, 2017 16:13:38 GMT -5
Hi
As we are working outside, we are slaves to the weather
We have cleaned another carb and blown out the jets, it has come off a working scooter so we should get it running
I have ordered some copper gasket and will try this when the weather improves.
We do have everything for putting the big bore kit on but want to know this engine runs (even for a few moments)
I appreciate the offer Geoff and will take you up on the offer if we get to that point after all the new things
If we need your help (I am sure we will....lol) we can bring it to you as that is only fair
I will keep everyone posted on the progress
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Post by geoffh on Jul 29, 2017 8:22:55 GMT -5
Dave,carry on the good fight,I,ll watch out for your posts but PM me if it takes a while.Just for anyone reading this,turns out Dave lives just 21 miles from me,small world.
geoff
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