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Post by cagiva4ever on Oct 19, 2017 10:39:00 GMT -5
most likely your scooter has lowbeam 25/25W and highbeam 35/35W.
if they both light up sametime, your stator charging system Wattage isnt enough to handle it all.
as if you also have bay15d 21/5w rear light. 21w for brake and 5w for running light.
im assuming they all are old fashion Filament bulbs, no LED.
+ the rest, tachos 2w or 5w and turn signals 10w or 15w or even 20w.
so do the math. roughly average 85w stator-charge system....
why dont you look at your owners manual for specs. so you will see...........
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Post by lostforawhile on Oct 19, 2017 12:12:26 GMT -5
Changing all the lights to led frees up power to the stator, but it runs 100 percent all the time anyway, excess voltage from the waveform goes to ground, unlike an alternator with a changeable field
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Post by 49cctaotaothunder on Oct 19, 2017 19:36:01 GMT -5
bump. I think the lights come like this??? I may wire so both lights work at the same time by hitting the light switch, but not sure the best way to do it.
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Post by cagiva4ever on Oct 20, 2017 1:53:49 GMT -5
Yes, by common sense etc, it runs like that.
i repeat: Why dont you have a look at your owners manual and do the math ? no guessing game.
modd it headlight and you will FAIL. not to mention that most likely 99,9% sure you will then also COOK UP your headlight reflector material due the extra heat caused inside it...........also more moisture issues inside it, need better breather ventilation...
if you want to upgrade it make it scooter better, do the LED swop. LED bulb types you will also find from o-manual (commonly) , or take all out 1st and check the type manually.
if you didnt get o-manual from your seller, Demand it, it is your Consumer rights to have it,also legal issue. Demand also wiring diagram if it aint included in the o-manual as it should be.....
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mj
Scoot Member
Posts: 20
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Post by mj on Oct 30, 2017 22:34:12 GMT -5
4.5g sliders will give you the pickup you need. 72 cc big bore kit will give you the power you want.
If you up jet (.85 or more for me), you have to remove the inner snorkel from the inside of the air box or you will get hesitation when you accelerate (too much fuel, not enough air).
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mj
Scoot Member
Posts: 20
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Post by mj on Nov 2, 2017 17:54:22 GMT -5
My amazon mods on my 2017 Tao atm50
BlueFire® Motorcycle Security Kit Alarm System Anti-Hijacking Cutting Off Remote Engine Start Arming Disarming Killer Whale Men's Motorcycle glasses & Riding Glasses 3 Pairs X-PRO 18mm Carburetor w/Electric Choke for GY6 50cc Mopeds Scooters Roketa Taotao Jonway NGK (7544) CR7HIX Iridium IX Spark Plug, Pack of 1 Dr. Pulley 16x13 Sliding Roller Weights 4.5 Gram
Happy with all of them. The carb was branded keihin (not sure if real) and came with a 85 jet which I had to remove the inner snorkel of the air box for the engine to breathe. I chose the 4.5 g sliders by watching the youtube videos.
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Post by jackrides on Nov 2, 2017 23:00:24 GMT -5
Headlight issues. Since two bulbs = 50 to 70 watts, has anyone tried an old motorcycle headlight (hey isn't headlite easier to type?) with a halogen bulb?
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Post by kagetenshi on Nov 6, 2017 12:30:15 GMT -5
If you want to go the halogen bulb route just make sure the headlight housing and lens are tough enough to withstand the heat. It wouldn't do you any good to have a melted/on fire headlight housing while going down the road. LED bulbs can be a good investment if you find out e suitable to your lighting requirements.
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Post by greginisn on Nov 7, 2017 1:26:24 GMT -5
I'm guessing you have a Thunder, the headlights are a one or the other kind of deal. The alternator probably doesn't make enough amperage to run both high & low beams at the same time altho the LED rear lights, turn & brake lights do reduce the current drain. So maybe.
Keep looking for the LED headlite "bulbs". Prices and types keep improving but I think the Thunder uses Projector bulbs and that style may still be a problem. I've not taken mine apart, yet, so not 100% sure what's in there. I don't plan any night time riding so haven't been concerned too much about headlites. Daytime visibility is more my concern.
Greg
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Post by uglo on Nov 8, 2017 18:18:09 GMT -5
Dang everyone that is one hell of a welcome on his new scoot!
I'll second the BBM idea. I'm running a 5wmm bore on mine but if you want to go safe and get an epic power boost while not sacrificing scoot crank longevity .. go with the 47mm. The difference between that and stock is immeasurable.
I like free flow air filter as that it makes tuning carb much easier. However, stock air box is just as good when removing restrictions.
Nobody seems to suggest a pipe.. I just built a taotao last weekend.. 50mm bbk.. stock air box with restrictions removed.. and updated to account for changes while using STOCK pipe. Ran like garbage compared to mine. Modified stock exhaust.. tore out restrictions and BAM. There it was.
But yeah.. 20mm glixal carb is fine.. stock airbox.. a good ngk plug (C7HIX for Iridium or C7HSA for a standard plug).. and of course the 47mm BBM. You won't clear 40mph unless you change out your final drivegearing.. glixal has them on Amazon for 23 bucks.
Good luck dude! Welcome to forum and happy scooting!
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Post by 49cctaotaothunder on Nov 8, 2017 20:28:41 GMT -5
Thanks Guys! This is a great forum. Here is an update. I decided to let the lights alone because I'm a daytime driver. I bought this thing for joy riding not getting plowed over by a truck at night. I added the Glixal carb 20mm bore carburetor it looks well built and runs fine for me, I'm waiting to get it dialed in with my BBK. I installed the Glixal 50MM BBK and have not really ran it hard because I have not had any time to break it in. I made video on the install, but did not post it yet (stay tuned). I ordered roller weights to tune with, so I can narrow it down to sliders that will be the right weight. I switched on the variator belt with a Gates belt. I installed the NGK plug gapped at .028 I have set up my digital tach. and need to get some time to do all the the tuning. Stay tuned to this thread I will be making updates and videos of my progress. Thanks again for the suggestions without this forum I would not have such great guidance for my performance needs.
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Post by cagiva4ever on Nov 9, 2017 12:53:44 GMT -5
While you get the Glixal carb adjusted, its worth Getting 2nd spring (that sits over Throttle slide).
often them Springs are too Stiff, that makes the Throttle slide and butterfly Syncro to be Out.....This also helps to cure some of the Acceleration pump downside effects.....
a simple trick and Tune is to test a spring that is shortened by 2 coils/winds (how to say it in english..)
a 2nd Spring that is Equal into Glixals Stock oem spring, or the test is not done right....
These springs are very thin and soft, so carefull verifying for Equal spring is needed.
This mentioned Spring trick has been out for a long time since early 2000 , among PD18J pd19J etc carbs etc.
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Post by tortoise2 on Nov 9, 2017 13:24:59 GMT -5
installed the Glixal 50MM BBK The aggravation begins . . .
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Post by cagiva4ever on Nov 9, 2017 18:45:32 GMT -5
Before you went and installed the BBK, it would have been a "must to do" to check the EndFloat/axial of the Crank....
as its China made, tolerance is huge from almoust Zero into 1,5mm+
if you happen to have substd endfloat, with BBK, it will deffo eat your Crank main bearings soon'ish....
i assume you didnt either UpGrade the Crank.
in anycase, happy Scooting ! i have to ait until next summer as i live in Arctic Circle.....
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Post by 49cctaotaothunder on Nov 11, 2017 11:30:02 GMT -5
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