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Post by lostforawhile on Dec 4, 2017 2:58:00 GMT -5
there is always going to be a big divide between crimp and not crimping. I'm on the soldering and adhesive heat shrink side, once the glue in the shrink melts, it's weatherproof. use quality stuff like power phase brand shrink,and Kester solder
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Post by lostforawhile on Dec 4, 2017 3:03:05 GMT -5
real solder with tin and lead, has also gone through the roof, price wise, environmental crap, a pound of Kester from digikey is now 48 bucks, I remember when it was a couple of bucks a pound, just insane.
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Post by jackrides on Dec 4, 2017 3:12:08 GMT -5
For solder to bond to wire, the wire and solder Must be clean of everything including fingerprint oil. Clean the wire with a clean paper towel piece dipped in denatured alcohol or spray it with electric contact cleaner then apply heat, from under the wire if possible. The solder will flow into the wire like liquid silver. Do Not move the wire until the solder has a slight color change, meaning it has solidified. 'Tinning' the wire by applying solder to a single wire before connecting also helps. Then use Clean tools to make a solid mechanical connection between the wires with no protruding strands. Now punish yourself for forgetting to slide the heat shrink tape on to the wire first. After a few done right, it starts going fairly fast! Thinner solder melts faster than thick. 'Tinning' the tip of the iron helps also. The tip might need to be sanded first time to get it clean.
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Post by lostforawhile on Dec 4, 2017 3:17:19 GMT -5
good solder with quality flux should work fine on freshly stripped wire, without a lot of extra cleaning steps, the solder you are using is a 60/40 not a lead free right? the lead free crap they are trying to push on everyone is awful.
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Post by lostforawhile on Dec 4, 2017 3:29:12 GMT -5
was the stuff you got lead free Rosin core? it acts like a cold solder joint even with enough heat,an won't wet the wire properly, it's just complete garbage to try and solder with.
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Post by dexameth on Dec 4, 2017 7:15:00 GMT -5
was the stuff you got lead free Rosin core? it acts like a cold solder joint even with enough heat,an won't wet the wire properly, it's just complete garbage to try and solder with. Yeah you got it. Cheap lead free crap.
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Post by lostforawhile on Dec 4, 2017 11:39:02 GMT -5
That would be your problem
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Post by FrankenMech on Dec 4, 2017 18:30:37 GMT -5
Yeah, the lead free stuff is the pits, even good brands. The off brand lead free stuff is worthless. I think I have enough of the old 60/40 around to last me for the rest of my life.
Old wire, bad, or misshandled wire can be oxidized even with a fresh strip. Getting anything right is a PITA nowadays.
Crimping good connectors, and soldering with good solder, and a good adhesive heatshrink makes a good method but you still need silicone dielectric on the connections when you slide them together to protect it. Some connectors are gold plated but usually the plating is too thin to do anything but look pretty. Thermal/current cycles can raise hell with any connector but cheap ones are really bad. The automotive OEMs have worked really hard on connectors but they still fail too often.
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Post by dexameth on Dec 7, 2017 15:21:50 GMT -5
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Post by lostforawhile on Dec 7, 2017 22:17:53 GMT -5
you need to get some good solder and eventually fix those, or you are going to have an electrical nightmare on your hands twisted connections are not going to stay that way, years ago I owned a small two man car stereo shop,during the boom era in Atlanta, and I fixed many twisted connections.
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Post by FrankenMech on Dec 8, 2017 1:51:13 GMT -5
Lost is correct. To twist wires together you need to do what is called a 'Western Union' splice then tape for temporary connections. For permanent connections the W-U twist/splice needs to be soldered. Heat shrink tubing is the preferred material instead of tape. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Western_Union_splice
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