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Post by pitobread on Dec 10, 2017 1:19:58 GMT -5
I can find Jiangwayne, which I don't really like.
And Taida, which isnt quite 44mm (43.6) listed.
Seems like most of the older brands are discontinued. Am I missing any?
I have a really dumb idea and I want to see it thru but it hinges on getting a decent 44mm stroke Dio crank.
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Post by ThaiGyro on Dec 10, 2017 3:36:06 GMT -5
Not sure what you're missing...or why the JW 44mm is not to your liking. We use these in our underboner "race" bikes, quite a bit. Like many cranks...the oil pump gear is sometimes a problem, but we never use a pump.
The only issue is the seals, which are different, but order as a kit and they come with it. They advertise better gas charge flow here...may be true. Not flow bench tested by anyone I have met. They do seem stout to us!
To your question. Other than complicated adaptations, I see not much. We have more fun with the 10mm piston pin cranks. Not more reliability, just more options.
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Post by PIG on Dec 10, 2017 11:02:48 GMT -5
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Post by pitobread on Dec 10, 2017 14:36:24 GMT -5
Jiangwayne cranks can be had on aliexpress for 65usd shipped,( s.click.aliexpress.com/e/lOvulsIy ) I am hoping for all metal, I don't really want the plastic inserts. The finish on them is a little rough, compared to the Taida 43.6 "B" which is the one without the oil pump drive. I will have to choose if these are my only options but I am curious if I am missing any.
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Post by sumaznkid on Dec 10, 2017 17:12:06 GMT -5
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Post by ThaiGyro on Dec 10, 2017 21:33:32 GMT -5
Nice find here! Since I am not in the States, I looked them up. EXACT/CMR is in Taiwan. Making race parts since 1976. My guess is they make some OEM stuff as well. That polished crank looks quite good in the picture. cmrmotor.imb2b.com/
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Post by pitobread on Dec 10, 2017 22:53:55 GMT -5
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Post by sumaznkid on Dec 11, 2017 0:35:47 GMT -5
Yup CMR is an old brand. I remember seeing some of there Dio and jog bores. Nice for Taiwan kits. I don't like mini stroke cranks but I may try that one for the price. I've seen 2ab and other min stroke cranks break on the oil pump splines. Rather use OEM Honda or malossi
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Post by ThaiGyro on Dec 11, 2017 2:37:03 GMT -5
Jiangwayne cranks can be had on aliexpress for 65usd shipped, I am hoping for all metal, I don't really want the plastic inserts. The finish on them is a little rough, compared to the Taida 43.6 "B" which is the one without the oil pump drive. I will have to choose if these are my only options but I am curious if I am missing any. Hey pitobread, regarding the finish on Jiangwayne cranks...I would agree that on a race motor you want as smooth as possible, especially of spinning 12,500 or higher rpm. I have some doubts that an OEM type engine that spins 8 to 10 thousand would really see a difference, even with a BBK. (Power, not rpm) The true kicker for me is: High compression/ignition timing at near max/port timing to match a high rpm pipe + everything else. If you desire a full dynamic power monster, I do get it. It is fun. The crank can help, if designed well. The more it can "cut" through the oil, the better. The plastic inserts on the JW? They are there for a good purpose. They help stuff the crankcase a little, pushing the gas charges easier, plus make balancing much easier to fine tune. Bakelite was an early form of synthetic plastic. It holds up well to all kinds of pressure and temperature. We have no failures to date. We have a few engines that do 14,500 rpm with Jiangwayne cranks...though not the 1300A-GAH-R26P Dio stroker. You can taper the bakelite if you wish to create a tiny bit of oil flow increase. You have made me think...a Gyro with Dio power and 47mm x 44 mm. 76 cc engine? I might have a pipe that could work! Baad-aaass!
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Post by pitobread on Dec 11, 2017 3:32:36 GMT -5
Thanks, ThaiGyro, I get that the plastic is there to increase case compression. I would just rather an all metal "stuffer " crank.
The reason I want a quality piece is because it will be spinning 11k or more.
Cat out of the bag I have decided to put my second twin engine on hold to make a Stage6 R/T 95cc AF18 using a minarelli S6 Kit.
They are based on a 44mm stroke 90mm rod crank, so my plan is to take a decent 44mm stroke crank, and then depending on how out to lunch the deck height is use a YZ80 rod (90mm) or a MBX80 Rod (91mm). Longer the better but I have to see what I am working with.
The biggest hiccup is the intake, whether or not it will clear the S6 Base plate. I may have to machine up a 1 piece Reed valve block and cylinder adapter, which would also allow me to gut the cases where the old intake was and allow maximum flow. if it wont I have a plan b, shove it onto my AF34 cases, which I am fairly confident will work VS the AF18. But is then annoying to mount in my North American Dio.
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Post by ThaiGyro on Dec 12, 2017 6:17:45 GMT -5
The biggest hiccup is the intake, whether or not it will clear the S6 Base plate. I may have to machine up a 1 piece Reed valve block and cylinder adapter, which would also allow me to gut the cases where the old intake was and allow maximum flow. if it wont I have a plan b, shove it onto my AF34 cases, which I am fairly confident will work VS the AF18. But is then annoying to mount in my North American Dio. Since you are obviously very astute with your machine work, (I love your twin) maybe you can have a go at a crank driven rotary valve intake. I was often beaten into the limitations of peak power by the now elderly Can-AM 125 singles. Down low they were equal to a reed engine in Road Race trim. They did not make even 10,000 rpm, but did so in very fine fashion with 7500 to 10,000 rpm power.
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Post by pitobread on Dec 12, 2017 6:33:17 GMT -5
Rotary valve intrigues me, but Im not there yet. Something like Alex of 2strokestuffing fame has made is somewhat simple, and I have seen some gnarly ones with belts and cogs... but I am always curious if the extra pumping and windage of yet another friction surface would be offset by the straight shot intake charge with no restriction in the eyes of power VS a reed setup.
I can appreciate the fact it eliminates some of the downfalls of reeds, the compromise between low speed and high speed flow reed selection, reed flutter, etc
But for now in the Dio I just want a corner carver with decent power. The Spree is a little too long and low to truly huck around, but it sure reels in the straights.
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Post by gsx600racer on Dec 13, 2017 1:03:11 GMT -5
You could reach out Steve @ VT Cycle. He sells(dealer)of PG(Phongeer) crankshafts. He might be able to order them. Ebay Link
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Post by gsx600racer on Dec 13, 2017 1:14:34 GMT -5
Another note: On the 2AB mini stroker cranks. I wanted to buy one awhile back from SSS. Brandon talked me out of it and recommend Malossi MHR stock stroke or Taida brand. The 2AB has been out of stock for awhile on his site. Here is a vid of someone that had issues with one out of the box. With those two things in mind, I personally would steer clear of the 2ab crankshaft.
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Post by pete130 on Dec 15, 2017 1:13:36 GMT -5
Hi i think you can buy from Japan i buy from them all the time fast shipping big range of aftermaket parts ill get web address and send to you hope it helps
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