|
Piston
Dec 13, 2017 5:28:39 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by pete130 on Dec 13, 2017 5:28:39 GMT -5
Hay im new to all this so ill make lots of mistakes lol sure most here would know a lot more than me thats for sure havent hurd a bad pecie of advice yet lol
|
|
|
Post by 190mech on Dec 13, 2017 6:43:00 GMT -5
Hope it all lines up well with the other bearings,,Many times a lot of build parts just dont fit correctly,but taking the time to make them work always gets a better running engine! Have you tried it with no cylinder base gasket yet?
|
|
|
Piston
Dec 14, 2017 2:08:56 GMT -5
Post by pete130 on Dec 14, 2017 2:08:56 GMT -5
Here are the two heads i have and ill put bottom end together and taque barrel and see what i get i keep comming up with should fit and need .2mm barrel gasket and end up .4mm below botom of ports i was going to lower to match have all porting tools to do its not making sence whats happinging on paper its all diffrent but i must be doing something wrong with what ever 52mm crank is 52mm and barrel is even 1.4mm below deak and port bottom so it may be a machining job have quote expencive so inless it lines up a lot better when togeather ill just have to i know about pistin skirt what else should i be worried about
|
|
|
Piston
Dec 14, 2017 2:09:28 GMT -5
Post by pete130 on Dec 14, 2017 2:09:28 GMT -5
|
|
|
Piston
Dec 14, 2017 2:10:56 GMT -5
Post by pete130 on Dec 14, 2017 2:10:56 GMT -5
And i havent used any base gasket at all thats the problem
|
|
|
Post by 190mech on Dec 14, 2017 5:17:35 GMT -5
The most important goal is to get the port durations correct(190Ex/130Tr),strive to get the piston flush with the bottom of the transfers,then the squish can be worked out.With those 2 heads your squish work will be easier..I dont like to cut the ports on a nikasil cylinder as the coating laps inside the port edges for strength,when cut away it can easily chip off during use..The bottom of the barrel is not coated,so metal could safely be removed there,I use a rotary table on a vertical milling machine which is safer than cutting on the lathe..
|
|
|
Post by ThaiGyro on Dec 14, 2017 7:17:02 GMT -5
Thats was my goal as i said all the parts are ment to line up 52mm stroker thats 4.4mm over stock barrel 4mm longer and i used digtal calapers all works out so i should only have to make up the .4mm top and bottom to have ports and deak line up but as you said piston may be to short the crank is ment to have stock forged rod pitty buy numbers it should line up close and it wouldnt have the port timing im getting its to high and i do ive read a lot about it all and know the theory but never done lol would it realy put lining up if only have sanded bearing that drops in no play but not tight at all and barrel not taque down at all would it realy be over a 1mm if so ill put bearings in and tarque to see what i get your a very smart person you know a lot about 2strokes and scooters thanks for taking the time yiu must get a lot asking a lot ill try do a full pic rebuild with this may help others thanks WOW! Comma, period...new paragraph.
|
|
|
Post by pete130 on Dec 16, 2017 4:25:24 GMT -5
Yes i agree with get the piston lined up first as you said with heads squash isnt going to be problem looking like a $220 trip to machine shop and get barrel lowered to line up piston to port the right way havent spent a lot of money to cut corners at this stage at all thanks for the advice doing bottom end this weekend so i can realy see how the barrel is sitting got a feeling its a lot closer than im getting with slack dummie bearing and im learning think it will match the numbers
|
|