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Post by dexameth on Feb 9, 2018 11:08:41 GMT -5
I've been having battery issues lately, or so I thought. I was testing the stator and thought to just look at the terminals and found green corrosion on the red wire connection. My batteryseems to be draining, or it isn't being recharged and my LEDs are draining it. What could cause this?   |
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Post by jackrides on Feb 9, 2018 13:50:59 GMT -5
Some electricity could bleed across the corrosion. Put a ammeter on the battery to check. Current could be in the range of milliamps, be Sure to not turn on anything with the meter connected like that.
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Post by gsx600racer on Feb 9, 2018 17:09:12 GMT -5
Take some baking soda and mix with warm/hot water and soak the connectors. Clean as much corrosion off as possible. Use compress air and blow dry. Spray plug with WD40 or pack plug with dielectric grease and reassemble.
As mentioned above, electricity could/can bleed across the corrosion.
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Post by oakleyscoot on Feb 9, 2018 19:25:35 GMT -5
The green you speak of is probably from the copper in the terminals, copper has a green oxide layer when it is subjected to moisture.
also, I would NOT put an ammeter in series with the battery lead unless it is capable of handling at least 30amps. Your starter will draw about 25amps when starting.
If you start it first THEN put ammeter in series then you potentially only deal with charge current, which I suspect will be more than a few miliamps.
Baking soda and water can't hurt when trying to clean terminals, baking soda is a base and works well for neutralizing an acid ( like battery acid) but will probably not do much for corroded copper,
mechanical cleaning (brush etc..) or electronic terminal cleaner would be better in my opinion.
and yes, applying dielectric grease to the female terminals will help keep water out.
I would start by starting your scooter and place your voltmeter across the terminals while on the 20V DC scale.
You should read between 13.8-14.2 volts DC when your rpm's are around the 2-4000 rpm range.
If your voltage is not at least 13.8 volts, your not charging your battery, look at your voltage regulator at this point and while there you can measure your AC voltage from the stator and check for a good regulator ground or, I believe there is a video here that shows how to check stater voltages through the terminal in your picture.
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Post by dexameth on Feb 12, 2018 8:02:39 GMT -5
I was getting volts between the yellow and white, I don't remember the numbers but when I checked the green wire I go nothing. 0 volts. So my charging circuit must have fried, but I still had accessory and lighting voltage? Hate to say, electrical is my biggest weakness but I'm learning. To top off electrical issues my 150 blew it's last headlight as soon as I got got to my local weekly meetup, but all my running lights went out. My brake light still works but no running lights... that'll be in another thread.
I installed another used stator in the 50, and only got a slight reading at 5k RPMs, like 15v. The others read way higher. I tried it anyway and so far so good.
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Post by GrumpyUnk on Feb 12, 2018 10:01:40 GMT -5
The green wire is likely ground. The white wire and the yellow wire are outputs from the stator. If you run at idle, and check the white & yellow to ground, you should get AC voltage, which should increase as rpms are increased. Check the white & yellow wires individually. If one or both are not producing voltage, you likely have a stator or wire or connector problem. If you backtrace from the regulator(if that's where you were checking...), there should be a multi-pin connector on the feed from the stator. You can check voltage again there to eliminate wiring and connectors from the possible failure points.
The brake light is operated by the battery, while the running and tail lights are run from the output of the stator, rectified but not very clean power. If the stator or the regulator/rectifier fail, you won't get tail nor running lights, and likely the headlight won't work either.
If you search the web, you may find a wiring schematic that comes close to what you have. It seems the 'engineers' are always trying new methods to save copper & insulation, and eliminate wires that can be designed out.
The stator voltage at 5k was, I think, low. But remember it produces AC, not DC, so set your meter accordingly. The other stator (old) higher readings are more in line with an operating stator. The voltages can be pretty high at high rpms, and I think should read above 12-13 at idle, which would rectify down to battery voltage. The regulator should limit DC voltage produced, even when the stator is producing AC in the above 30 range.(check the youtube videos in the other web site section)
tom
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Post by stoneforth on Feb 12, 2018 10:48:24 GMT -5
That's some serious corrosion. It looks as though a fair amount of moisture has been collecting in the connector possibly causing arcing between the battery out connector and the connector coming from the stator. The plastic between those terminals look fairly pitted.
Im no expert in rectifier circuits but i wonder if leakage between those terminals could damage the diodes in the rectifier circuit.
The terminals are usually made of tinned brass or copper so they should clean up fine but the connector could use a bit of love.
I'd start with oakleyscoot's suggestion and check dc voltage at the battery terminals once you've cleaned the r/r connector, first with the engine off and again with it running. If there's no increase in Vdc, check stator voltage with admins video guides.
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Post by dexameth on Feb 13, 2018 17:30:14 GMT -5
The only thing I have to test electricity is the cheap Harbor Frieght digital multimeter and it says to not test car batteries with it.
I just went and double checked and the charging output terminal is corroded. I thought it was the ground. I need to get deeper in my electrician game... I'm trying to wrap my head around two outputs and a ground that go into the R/R and only one red (battery) terminal comes out. How do the lights and auto enricher run off the stator when the wires lead directly to the R/R?
I'll be researching but if anyone has a quick easy answer I'd love it.
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Post by dexameth on Feb 13, 2018 17:34:09 GMT -5
And let me mention I do ride in rain and Scootie is parked in the rain... But I just started noticing this a while back. I dont think its a moisture thing (mostly).
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Post by GrumpyUnk on Feb 13, 2018 22:04:33 GMT -5
The yellow and white sort of huff-n-puff one at a time into the RR. DC comes out on the red wire to the battery terminal, providing 12v juice.
The wiring for the lights, etc are DC, and the voltage is not produced until the engine is running. I think.
IOW, the battery does not feed them until the engine is running at which time, they are connected to the RR produced DC voltage. Again, I think, as all these peepul seem to make s**t up on the fly when inventing wiring schematics.
If wishes were schematics, I'd have one on my desk, or computer. I sort of have searched the web, found some, and then interpolate from one to the other. e.g., the Brown comes from the light switch on some machines, and feeds DC to the instrument lights, running light, and tail light. The 'blinker' is powered by DC from the battery, switched by the ignition switch, ditto for the brake light, so you have brake light, at least if the engine dies and you ain't got no stator output. On other schemas, the lights are powered from the battery. You have to look at what u got.
BTW, I'm confused also.
tom
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Post by tocoo on Feb 14, 2018 4:43:59 GMT -5
Even though my connectors are cleaned, the state of yours makes me want to buy a spray to clean the connectors and prevent the corrosion. I think I will do this next summer when I disassemble the scooter
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Post by cagiva4ever on Feb 14, 2018 11:15:42 GMT -5
some China connectors i.e on various Scooters have "fake" coating on these connectors, fake silver or fake gold or just utterly crap filthy copper. End Result is easyly often as in OP's case.
not a big task to replace them into Housing....or complite Connector Blocks into summink like AMP superseal.
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Post by greginisn on Feb 15, 2018 5:38:20 GMT -5
The only thing I have to test electricity is the cheap Harbor Frieght digital multimeter and it says to not test car batteries with it. I just went and double checked and the charging output terminal is corroded. I thought it was the ground. I need to get deeper in my electrician game... I'm trying to wrap my head around two outputs and a ground that go into the R/R and only one red (battery) terminal comes out. How do the lights and auto enricher run off the stator when the wires lead directly to the R/R? I'll be researching but if anyone has a quick easy answer I'd love it. I like the baking soda & water trick you may want to probe the sockets with a pipe cleaner too. But rinse & dry and protect, I like the dielectric grease, some don’t. I had a similar problem on an old Fiat 850 and the soda water fixed me up. Re the wiring question, see photo. Greg  |
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Post by dexameth on Feb 15, 2018 9:35:06 GMT -5
The only thing I have to test electricity is the cheap Harbor Frieght digital multimeter and it says to not test car batteries with it. I just went and double checked and the charging output terminal is corroded. I thought it was the ground. I need to get deeper in my electrician game... I'm trying to wrap my head around two outputs and a ground that go into the R/R and only one red (battery) terminal comes out. How do the lights and auto enricher run off the stator when the wires lead directly to the R/R? I'll be researching but if anyone has a quick easy answer I'd love it. I like the baking soda & water trick you may want to probe the sockets with a pipe cleaner too. But rinse & dry and protect, I like the dielectric grease, some don’t. I had a similar problem on an old Fiat 850 and the soda water fixed me up. Re the wiring question, see photo.Greg So I've looked around at different wiring diagrams that Google so easily found for me, and it looks like the yellow wire coming from the stator is split to go to the headlight switch, the auto enricher, and the regulator/rectifier. So if I unplug the R/R, my headlights and auto enricher should still work, correct?? I thought the R/R regulated both the charging of the battery and the power going to the lights so neither will blow up at max RPMs. |
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Post by james82nd on Feb 15, 2018 19:43:50 GMT -5
buy cheap 5 dollar digital voltmeter from china and install it...it probably is your corrosion issues with the battery screws
and or the voltage regulator having corrosion. Try recharging the battery and buy that cheap digital voltmeter from china for a bout 5 bucks
them cheap digtal voltmeters are like 2" diameter
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