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Post by lilpinny on Mar 9, 2018 23:48:03 GMT -5
I usually say it takes 100 miles to break in a belt or tires or a contra spring just as a rule of thumb. "Don't drag a knee untill you got 100 miles on dem tires!"
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Post by Danielle Belle on Mar 9, 2018 23:58:35 GMT -5
Were your hands clean when you swapped the belt? The belt surfaces should be clean and free of grease, oil, or dirt. It should only take a couple days to break in, and you should honestly barely notice it. If it keeps acting strange, open it back up and look in there for a reason. Yes everything was clean. No dirt or crud or anything when replacing rhe belt
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Post by benji on Mar 10, 2018 1:20:10 GMT -5
No oil or grease or wd40 either, right? That's important too, no grease or oil in the cvt.
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Post by Danielle Belle on Mar 10, 2018 2:34:23 GMT -5
Yup no nothing
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Post by dexameth on Mar 12, 2018 9:52:50 GMT -5
Could be a dry torque drivers. The pins could be binding when your contra spring is trying to close the pulleys, so you could literally be feeling the "downshifting" of the clutch.
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Post by GrumpyUnk on Mar 12, 2018 12:19:21 GMT -5
quote:Any suggestions as to what is causing it.
Iif it sort of jerks when you come to a stop, that would be the clutch hanging and releasing, as the belt is being driven, if not forcefully, when the engine is running. As you release the throttle, and the rpms drop, the clutch should release, and quit trying to turn the clutch bell & thus the input shaft to the final gearing. If the shoes are dragging rather than springing back to the 'center' position, away from the inside surface of the clutch bell, you'll get intermittent 'shots' of energy trying to push you forward, resulting in slight jerkiness. I'd check the inside of the bell for contamination, and check that the clutch shoes are retracting without binding. It's possible the 'shoe springs' are weak, or the pivots dirty and gummed, causing the shoes to keep some contact with the bell. I do not know why, but the shoes can break at the pivot pin, and flop around as they see fit, and they'll bind with the clutch bell off and on, leading to a very poor idle, as if the engine is under load all the time(which it is). tom
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Post by dexameth on Mar 12, 2018 13:39:16 GMT -5
quote:Any suggestions as to what is causing it. Iif it sort of jerks when you come to a stop, that would be the clutch hanging and releasing, as the belt is being driven, if not forcefully, when the engine is running. As you release the throttle, and the rpms drop, the clutch should release, and quit trying to turn the clutch bell & thus the input shaft to the final gearing. If the shoes are dragging rather than springing back to the 'center' position, away from the inside surface of the clutch bell, you'll get intermittent 'shots' of energy trying to push you forward, resulting in slight jerkiness. I'd check the inside of the bell for contamination, and check that the clutch shoes are retracting without binding. It's possible the 'shoe springs' are weak, or the pivots dirty and gummed, causing the shoes to keep some contact with the bell. I do not know why, but the shoes can break at the pivot pin, and flop around as they see fit, and they'll bind with the clutch bell off and on, leading to a very poor idle, as if the engine is under load all the time(which it is). tom I have had that happen from drilling my clutch shoes too much... tee hee... but yeah, come to a stop and the scoot is chugging trying to go but not strong enough for me to not be able to hold back. Same thing happened when a spring broke and only one shoe was engaging at idle.
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Post by greginisn on Mar 12, 2018 23:48:55 GMT -5
Were you the person that posted a ?? about idle speed? Maybe you DO need to cut back the idle speed a bit.
Good luck, Greg
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