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Post by KymcoKid on May 22, 2018 14:28:50 GMT -5
Do you have stock torque drive,It could be hang up or binding.
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Post by peascreek on May 22, 2018 18:49:23 GMT -5
it's stock, and everything is smooth, no signs of binding, but I can open the pully fully by hand or put it on a table and compress it by hand, I'll be honest, it just feels weak for what it's actually supposed to do.
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Post by Happypancake! on May 22, 2018 19:46:25 GMT -5
my 2 cents.
By the look of the video. Either your belt is too long or has stretched. Belt is shaking a bit much. My guess is that you had a belt too long to begin with an it has stretched.
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Post by peascreek on May 22, 2018 22:16:20 GMT -5
Belt was new less than 1000 miles ago, and it's slapped around like that from day one, so did the old belt for that matter. I magine the free wheeling run up is part of it, be nice to be able to record it under load.
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Post by greginisn on May 23, 2018 19:14:40 GMT -5
 You will need some grease inside this hub thing that slides in & out adjusting the rear pulley diameter. Some oring lube on the rings & seals wont hurt but the slots and little pins must have some grease so it will adjust smoothly. Good luck Greg |
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Post by Happypancake! on May 23, 2018 20:21:48 GMT -5
Still think your belt is the problem. When your varitor is closed, belt is level.
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Post by peascreek on May 23, 2018 23:19:55 GMT -5
If the belt were the problem, I would think it most likely would have occurred with old belt as well since it was the factory original and visibly warn and degraded, but anything is possible, can always order a new belt with the other parts and slap it on first just to see. Not sure what you mean by level though.
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Post by GrumpyUnk on May 24, 2018 10:44:11 GMT -5
When the variator is 'closed', that means, I think, moving to be as narrow as possible, the belt is 'level' with the outer diameter of the variator. It cannot go higher without losing some contact area. And maybe falling out of place.
I just watched the video, and it seemed to work ok. If your CVT seems to up shift too quickly, and fails to downshift, to me that indicates contra spring weakness. Contra will prevent upshift if strong, and allow if too weak. If it is too weak, it won't want to downshift as readily when the variator 'force' is reduced at lower rpms.
The gizmos inside(ramps/pins/bearings/???) the clutch end need to be clean and lightly lubed. I do not think that is a problem as the mechanism opens/closes readily and appears, smoothly.
I'd try a new spring. Most things I have seen show someone having to stand on the clutch to compress the spring, though, I have done it using my hands when installing the belt.
tom
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Post by peascreek on May 24, 2018 12:58:25 GMT -5
Just got off the phone with the head tech guy at Kymco USA, we have a diagnosis, it's variator, which makes sense, the boss and bushing are worn, so with what gunk had built up, it was binding, said it might not do it on the stand without load, but was pretty confident, which makes sense, I noticed binding in the variator by hand before I cleaned it and the boss had a lot of areas that were no longer polished. I'd be willing to bet I could ride it ride now and it would be fine for awhile till the boss/bushing get dirty again or wear even more.
He didn't think the contra spring was bad, but I'll probably replace it anyway just because it's probably weaker now than it was new.
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Post by peascreek on May 24, 2018 23:49:57 GMT -5
was wrong about being able to ride it, put everything back on, for the first mile it worked better than ever, distinct drop in RPM around 45-50mph, then once it got warm it stuck.hate waiting on kymco parts, takes forever
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Post by GrumpyUnk on May 25, 2018 10:20:06 GMT -5
Could I summarize as follows, and be close?
The upshift works properly, not too early, but the downshift is rather hesitant.
The Kymco rep indicates the variator wear/gunk/etc make the variator bind when it should be 'retracting' as the rpms drop, but is slow/hesitant to do so.
More or less?
tom
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Post by peascreek on May 25, 2018 20:50:15 GMT -5
pretty much it, I did discover that once it's warmed up letting engine hit max RPM, it will actually lock the variator in the high position and it will not return unless you actually shut the engine off. On the other hand, however if I stay off the throttle and not let the engine hit the max, I can actually ride it OK even up to 60 so at least I can do a bit of putting locally for fun still. Prolly be the middle of June before the parts get here though.
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Post by peascreek on Jun 13, 2018 17:31:44 GMT -5
Parts came a day early, so we went ahead and got everything replaced, and a test ride reveals the tranny working smooth as silk, I can hit the gas at 50 and accelerate instead of bogging, no more feeling the pulley lock or release, top end is back to normal, which means it still sucks but normal.
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Post by peascreek on Jun 13, 2018 23:52:01 GMT -5
Went back and looked at video from a road trip this morning and some video from a ride after the new variator parts and torque spring were installed. The most accurate measurement I can discern at this point is a couple of 0-45 runs, before replacement, 15 seconds, after replacement 12 seconds and a 0-55 after replacement yields a 15 second time.
I went back further and got some clips of when I first got it back together, before the variator issues and with the shorty muffler and I maight be incorrect in concluding there was no performance gain, the 0-45 seems to be at least a full second faster with the shorty, which was essentially a straight pipe with some insultation, the outlet on the stock muffler is about half the size of the head pipe, it has to be restrictive and it definitely runs to the rich side.
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