i have a 01 Powermax 50. I bought a new piston and new hone to get it running. Now that it is running it wont go over 35. I cleaned the carb, New piston, Better gas everything i could think of. It starts every time and is in very good condition. Just wanted to know what my next steps should be to get it to 40mph like it should? Also the engine and piston hone said 1E40FM I wanted to know if i could use 1E40QMB parts for it since they are fairly similar i think? Thanks in advance any help is appreciated .
Have you checked compression? That might be a good place to start. Maybe measure the bore diameter and make sure it's not worn and honed too far if compression figures are low and squish is not set too wide.
The FM uses different stuff because of a longer stroke. It's not that you can't use 1E40QMB parts, but the cylinder and piston may not be a direct bolt on.
Let me know I hope i do not get in trouble for posting external links i just want to make sure i get the right stuff. Also could i just get the crankshaft and skip the cylinder kit or are both a must. thanks
1) Should work. 2)I suggest staying away from Scootertronics. Lots of folks have less than favorable experiences. I ordered a 52mm kit there years ago and they told me after it came without the head that the pic was wrong. Told me they'd find a head for me, never did. 3)Completely the wrong engine platform. Do not get that.
Not sure if the last link will work or not. I'd guess no, because it's probably for the stock stroke on a typical engine, and you have a longer stroke. You could probably make one work with spacers and such, but the transfer durations may or may not end up higher than ideal.
Just to clarify something, and Josh will have to correct me if I'm wrong since I've never owned an FM, but the reason to go with a new crank is for the 12mm wrist pin. The FM has a 10mm I believe he said and no 50+mm kits come with the small wrist pin to my knowledge. As I said above, if you go with a 70cc kit that has a 10mm pin, it's not intended for the longer stroke most likely, so you'll end up needing cylinder spacers and the port timings will go up. Could also make it harder to get proper squish clearance without machine work.
Last Edit: Jul 13, 2011 8:43:42 GMT -5 by 90GTVert
Autotech355 on ebay sells 47-48mm bore kits for that engine. I remember drawkward having a mix-up with those cylinders and Carlos sent him the right one.
2003 Kymco Cobra A/C 47mm iron bore Naraku cylinder with Malossi Sport head. Leo Vince SP3 exhaust, 21mm PHBG carb, factory intake modified, factory reedblock with my own.35mm CF reeds, Factory airbox modded, Polini vari with 7.75g Dr.P sliders, OEM and NCY mixed rear pulley, OEM clutch with tighter springs, stock clutch bell, Top Racing final drive gears (noisy SOBs).
NASRA 2013-current 1/8th mile dragrace record holder with an 8.3s pass at over 77MPH on a custom rail built by 190mech
If your going to buy from Carlos do it via e-mail much better pricing. I usually do my shopping on his ebay store then send him my list and he sends me a total shipped and it is much less than the eBay prices.
1987 Volkswagen Jetta GL GX/ACN Winter Car (Alpine White) 1988 Volkswagen Jetta GLi PG/AUG Project Car (Black) 1989 Volkswagen Jetta GL RV/ASF Summer Car (Atlas Grey) 1990 Volkswagen Jetta GL RV/TNA Parts Car (Alpine White)
Robert, he did send the another cylinder, but it still didn't run right in my scooter. I had something like half an inch of squish. It was ridiculous. Sent it out to 190mech to have it shaved, cause my local shop wouldn't put it on their lathe. They said it would fly out. Flew out of 190's lathe (go figure). He sent me back a 48 mm Autotech with spacers. That never ran right either - detonation and weird power curve. Nothing ever ran well until I finally changed out the crank and installed the 54mm. That's why I suggest that, over everything else.
I did notice that the stock crank had plenty of meat on the rod to be drilled/machined to fit a 12mm, if someone had access to the tools and talent.
so today i had took the scoot for a long ride "more than usual" and the thing started overheating i notice when it become sluggish and only went 20. so i pulled over to check and everything was nice and toasty. so i waited 15 min or so on the side of the road knowing i had a good 8 miles or so til home. I started on my way and it shut off. Completely overheating. i got it home and now im thinking this is why my scoot will not hit 40. I have been mixing my fuel and 2cycle oil since i got the thing running and i am thinking i might have some kind of air leak. any suggestions as to y this might be overheating. I will try to get a video up so you can hear what the scooter sounds like.
I'm not really sure how you tell one of these air cooled motors is overheating for sure, unless you have a cylinder head temp gauge or see something melted. These things always feel incredibly hot to me. Just in case though, usually overheating stems from :
Clogged air passages in the cooling system. (Make sure the fan shroud and cylinder shroud are free of any debris. I assume they are since it sounds like it's just back together.)
A lean condition. (The evaporation of fuel helps to cool the cylinder. Check your spark plug color/condition and perhaps try a larger main jet. As you said, check for air leaks that could cause a lean condition. A leakdown tester is the best way to be sure you find it if there is one, but you can use an unlit propane torch or soemthing leke carb cleaner to spray around a running engine's seals to see if the engine speed changes to indicate a leak.)
High compression. (Check your squish clearance. If you are hearing any sort of knocking noise from the engine once it's hot, try using premium fuel.)
Retarded ignition timing. (Make sure the woodruff key that locates the flywheel is intact. You could also check the position of the flywheel relative to TDC or check timing with a timing light if you really suspect the ignition timing to be the cause.)
Last Edit: Jul 14, 2011 7:34:33 GMT -5 by 90GTVert
so here are the things i am looking at getting and installing on my scoot. I just wanted to run it by the pros before i spend a couple bills on this. Here is my cart These items can be found on this website. www.scrappydogscooters.com/50cc_2stroke_Performance.html * BR8HS spark plug 2.95 quantity| $2.95 * performance JOG air filter * pick you filter size: 36mm for stock carb
9.95 quantity| $9.95 * JOG standard intake manifold boot 9.95 quantity| $9.95
* JOG90 big bore kit
* JOG90 crankshaft
quantity| $99.95 Item total:$252.75 Shipping and handling loading...$29.00 Total:$281.75 USD
I'd skip the air filter. You get more noise and tuning issues than performance. Oull the snorkel out of the stock airbox for a free airflow upgrade.
If you plan to port that's a good big bore, but it doesn't include a cylinder head. If I were going to install one and didn't want to port, I think the Hoca 54mm kit from Parts For Scooters, that includes a head, would be a better choice. Autotech355 on eBay sells kits similar to the scrappy kit that include heads I believe.
You could get a 45mm stroke crank kit from Autotech355 on eBay for about the same price as the stocker. More stroke and better quality. The bad part there is you may end up having to mess with cylinder spacers or modding to alter squish clearance when it's setup because the piston will go about 1.5mm higher in the bore and lower in the bore than the stock crank. Pretty much any build like this is going to be more than just bolting it together if you want it to work well though.
how do you Oull the snorkel out of the stock airbox? Also i message autotech555 2 see if I got a few items if he could put it on one shipping charge instead of each item. How hard do you think this installation will be i am moderetly informed on scooters?