|
Post by GrumpyUnk on Jun 12, 2018 9:57:12 GMT -5
I am ignorant to a degree, but this seems to be the one in question. It looks the same as the on on my mower. Feed it AC volts and get DC from the center connector. Give it a decent heatsink, and it should last, and seems rated to handle 15A. www.amazon.com/Stens-435-081-Voltage-Regulator-Kohler/dp/B000G65X4Q Cheap enough to fiddle with, and if the magic smoke gets out, you are not out a ton of money. tom ADDED: Again ignorance. I watched a yotube where someone tapped both of the windings in the stator, yellow & white, and fed them to a regulator rectifier. My thought was two legs are better than one, as it seemed one leg was dumping raw AC, I thought, used for the 'running' lights - headlight, tail light, and front light. The other was for gauge, cluster, etc, and keeping the battery charged. n.b., the wiring diagrams seem to dictate what powers what, and they vary all over the place. IMO. tom
|
|
|
Post by FrankenMech on Jun 12, 2018 13:15:14 GMT -5
Schematics vary all over the place and some may even be correct Stator wiring details that can be trusted are almost impossible to find. That regulator indeed looks cheap enough to try. The two 'A' terminals are for the stator AC winding connections and the middle 'B+' terminal is for the + Battery. All the lights would run off the battery. The main battery fuse would probably melt. You would need to put in a switch for the battery to headlight circuit. Or use a relay, one of those BOSCH automotive types would do. Some way to keep the headlights OFF until the engine is running so they don't drain the battery. One of the problems with the 'raw AC' theory is that the AC must be regulated or the lights go 'poof' when the RPMs climb.
|
|