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Post by Happypancake! on Mar 13, 2019 21:26:25 GMT -5
Cool. It should be here 7 days from now. As long as it can cruise at 45 I won't do anything besides change the fuel lines. I've read up on the 190 swap and it looks cool but a little beyond something I could do in a day without help. If the motor get's damaged I will try the 140cc or anything that is a direct swap. I have seen CR 250 motors dropped into a Grom. That would be the ultimate goal. Or heck, even a CR 125 to get that easy to wrench 2 stroke powerband. I can't weld or fabricate yet so it's impossible for me to get too custom. 70cc @ 45? GET to tuning your drive train.
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Post by oldgeek on Mar 13, 2019 21:39:08 GMT -5
Thanks. It looks like I have tons of work to do after looking over the PDI. Now I'm wondering if the front tire is on backwards. It can be a lot of work, but it is time well spent. It is the price we pay when getting a cheaper version from china.
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Post by aeroxbud on Mar 14, 2019 4:53:39 GMT -5
Nice ride 😁 There should be a direction arrow on the tire. A lot of tires fit both front and back. That's why the tread can look wrong. Normally you reverse the tire on the front. The creaking when turning the bars is probably the cables or wiring harness. Just make sure it's routed properly, and had free play.
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Post by scootnewb on Mar 14, 2019 6:33:28 GMT -5
I was only kidding about the front tire. It was already on the rim so there was only one way it could go on. Good. I don't want to mess with the headset. But putting on the headlight (all the wires are crammed behind it) is almost a 2 person job. I get all these lofty notions after watching SpeedTV and want to be a gearhead. It's all fine and well when that new (spelled 'FREE') crate Motor from JEGs Racing comes rolling in and 5 guys with years of experience install and tune it within a half hour using tools that cost more than a house. It looks so easy and fun and the end result is always great. But in reality, I find myself lying in the driveway trying to figure out what goes where, cursing with dirty hands and a 2nd rate socket set wondering if I will be able to get it running so I can make it to an appointment.
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Post by scootnewb on Mar 14, 2019 11:11:49 GMT -5
It is on. Drain poo oil. Hope this is good. Aww yeah Oh there it is Just one more thing Of fucking course I found more minor defects besides the right side chain tensioner. The lock position on the ignition switch does nothing. The speedo is stuck in kmph, the mirror mount on the clutch handle is mis-threaded. No way to attach a mirror without tapping it out. I hope there aren't any of these minor problems inside the motor. I swear I will dispute the charge light it on fire and buy a motorized skateboard. I mean it.
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Post by 90GTVert on Mar 14, 2019 11:53:16 GMT -5
Rotella T works. It gets used in all sorts of vehicles, including motorcycles. You probably already are aware, maybe it has even been mentioned here, but I wanted to be sure to point out that these engines do have a wet clutch. You'll see us telling people with scoots very often that they don't need a motorcycle oil that is good for wet clutches, but that's not the case with the Hellcat and pit bike type engines. If you switch from the Rotella, make sure you get a motorcycle oil or the clutch is prob going to slip and could be ruined.
Let us know how it does once you ride it.
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Post by scootnewb on Mar 14, 2019 13:28:09 GMT -5
Thanks. I finally got back from a hike to the next closest gas station. I put in gas, it just comes out the over flow tube in the carb. I block the over flow tube and it starts leaking from the bottom of the carb. Float is stuck? I planned on replacing the carb anyway so i ordered a VM22. But damn, I was looking forward to riding around today. I called the local shop to see if they had any VM22s on hand, they said $500. I was all like, "LOL, okay fam."
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Post by 90GTVert on Mar 14, 2019 16:19:30 GMT -5
Sometimes a few taps with the handle of a screwdriver or something similar will be enough to get the float to unstick. Better solution would be to take it apart and see what's up and clean it, but some taps may do it for now.
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Post by 190mech on Mar 14, 2019 16:41:59 GMT -5
Left hand mirror is usually LEFT hand thread,,quit ordering stuff and fix what you have!!If you are replacing all these parts,in a month you could have bought a real Grom...
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Post by scootnewb on Mar 14, 2019 17:42:36 GMT -5
I tried tapping on it a few times but no joy. Every time I've taken a carb apart (beyond accessing the jets on a CVK) it didn't go well and or took a crazy long time.
I didn't know that about the left side mirror. On my scooter I just took them on and off without thinking about it. I'll try spinning the mirror in the other direction and see how it goes. I should try to repair the current carb but it is a better option for me to get the replacement. One I can open up without drilling out. One that comes with a legit 26mm manifold. It was only $33.
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Post by scootnewb on Mar 15, 2019 9:47:15 GMT -5
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Post by scootnewb on Mar 16, 2019 18:27:32 GMT -5
I made some progress today. It now runs with the replacement carb/manifold. My word, the stock manifold was blocking off so much. The hole in the engine head - it is almost as if they want you to put a better manifold on. I went really slow taking great care not to damage the plastic and I had to run and get misc bolts at the hardware store so it took a few hours just to remove the plastic, remove the air-box, get the carb and manifold on and route new fuel lines. Plus it was blustery as fuck outside. Whoever did quality control on this must have been high or just didn't care. The coil wire was routed in a way it pressed against the intake tube on the airbox. It was almost pinched completely off. If this bike didn't come with a defective carb and was able to start it would have run like crap. It's awesome working on new bikes and not something you picked up for $50 that had been sitting in a shed missing a gang of parts and doesn't start. I still haven't ridden it yet. But it started right up after installing the parts and the 110 main jet. It seems to idle nice but I only kept it on for a second. I thought it should be broken in with a couple heat cycles then drive it like you stole it. I left the charcoal canister on but it isn't connected to anything at this point. The case vent hose has a filter on the end so it should be good. There is a small amount of play in the throttle so I guess I need a new throttle cable eventually. But otherwise, so far so good.
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Post by aeroxbud on Mar 16, 2019 20:16:20 GMT -5
I made some progress today. It now runs with the replacement carb/manifold. My word, the stock manifold was blocking off so much. The hole in the engine head - it is almost as if they want you to put a better manifold on. I went really slow taking great care not to damage the plastic and I had to run and get misc bolts at the hardware store so it took a few hours just to remove the plastic, remove the air-box, get the carb and manifold on and route new fuel lines. Plus it was blustery as fuck outside. Whoever did quality control on this must have been high or just didn't care. The coil wire was routed in a way it pressed against the intake tube on the airbox. It was almost pinched completely off. If this bike didn't come with a defective carb and was able to start it would have run like crap. It's awesome working on new bikes and not something you picked up for $50 that had been sitting in a shed missing a gang of parts and doesn't start. I still haven't ridden it yet. But it started right up after installing the parts and the 110 main jet. It seems to idle nice but I only kept it on for a second. I thought it should be broken in with a couple heat cycles then drive it like you stole it. I left the charcoal canister on but it isn't connected to anything at this point. The case vent hose has a filter on the end so it should be good. There is a small amount of play in the throttle so I guess I need a new throttle cable eventually. But otherwise, so far so good. You should be able to adjust the free play out of the throttle. There should be an adjuster by the throttle tube. If it's still not enough, adjust it at the carb side. Even new fly by wire motorcycles come with throttle free play. I'm not keen on it either. Always adjust it out.
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Post by scootnewb on Mar 16, 2019 20:22:00 GMT -5
Thanks
I adjusted the adjuster all the way out by the throttle. I'm not sure how to adjust it at the carb though.
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Post by scootnewb on Mar 18, 2019 14:09:14 GMT -5
I went riding today. This thing slow AF. I am not sure what to do about the carb. So far the engine seems okay. The problem: It bogs when trying to go 1/2 to WOT. According to this it has to do with the needle and slide. I have no idea how to adjust the slide and I don't remember seeing any notches on the needle to adjust the needle height. I am at sea level and it is 35F out. Will going down a size on the main jet help?
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