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Post by phylowgreen on May 10, 2019 18:35:50 GMT -5
Cooling shroud? Oh crap! Well I guess it’s a good thing I never got it to start! I’ll look in my pile of parts.
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Post by phylowgreen on May 10, 2019 18:45:42 GMT -5
Ok I found the cooling shroud. Now I remember taking this off...over a year ago when I started working on the scooter. I remember some type of rubber gasket that went around the valve cover before the shroud goes on. That was bad. I tossed it. I’ll get another one and get it all back together. I already made the changes to the vacuum line, the idle mix screw and the idle speed screw.
Thank you so much for all the information. I’ll be back when my part comes.
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Post by FrankenMech on May 10, 2019 21:16:43 GMT -5
A service manual should show parts diagrams and breakdowns. They will be crude but by comparing several illustrations you may get it right.
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Post by phylowgreen on May 19, 2019 18:53:19 GMT -5
 ok. It’s back together. No start. Still no gas to the plug. I changed the float height on the carb (both ways because I thought I had gotten it wrong the first time). Still no start and no gas to the plug. Also the battery keeps draining when I try to start it. I only let it crank 5 times, which is no more than 5 seconds. I can do that twice and then the battery is drained to the point that it won’t crank. I had the battery checked at an auto parts store and it’s good. I haven’t taken the starter apart to check for oil but it’s a new starter. I can’t imagine the seals are bad. any ideas? |
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Post by GrumpyUnk on May 19, 2019 20:14:53 GMT -5
If it will only crankas described, either your engine has a LOT of friction, or the battery is not big enough(CCA/AH), or the starter motor is drawing more than it should. It is possible the CVT belt may be too tight, or the clutch dragging, or the clutch stuck or the variator stuck... any and all would keep the belt tight and 'geared' wrong, so the engine would not want to run until it got up to rpms... a jammed clutch can cause weird poor running.
I don't know who checked the battery, but you might try using an auto/truck battery jumpered in parallel, + to +. and - to - so you have more amps available.
HOw did you change the float setting? I have yet to change one, and if I did, I'd use a hot screwdriver/whatever to heat the float tab(meltish, but not quite) so I could move it. I don't know how you'd know which way to go...
The starter should not get full of oil, as there is NO oil source to fill it. It only 'connects' to the CVT belt/variator/clutch area, and there's no oil there( well there should be no oil...) unless something is wrong.
What does 'no gas to plug' mean? A dry plug after cranking? It actually take a relatively lot of wet liquid fuel into the intake to get the plug wet. You should not have that much fuel flowing into the intake, if the carb is working, ditto the float valve. It should remain pretty dry.
tom
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Post by phylowgreen on May 20, 2019 5:10:31 GMT -5
Well that’s good news on the spark plug. (Yes, dry after cranking) Not so good news on all the other things that could be the problem. But thanks for the info. All new to me.
I watch a professional motorcycle mechanic on YouTube. He has one video where he explains the carb float in detail. The tab that the needle hangs from is a relatively soft metal and only takes a gentle pressure with a screwdriver to bend it. Simple procedure if you can think upside down/rich/lean ... I’m not quite there yet.
As for the battery what do you mean by jumpered in parallel?
Thanks!
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Post by GrumpyUnk on May 21, 2019 11:46:13 GMT -5
Each and every float I have seen is made of plastic. The tab you bend to adjust the float level is not generally bendable on plastic floats. Brass float tabs are bendable.
Parallel means connecting pos to pos and neg to neg. Series would increase the VOLTAGE, parallel increases the available amperage(starter can draw power from both batteries) to increase starter motor torque if it was limited by battery power.
Bending the float tab towards the floats - down in its normal position - will lower fuel level in the bowl.
Bending the tab upwards, towards the hinge pin, will lower the float, and raise fuel level in the float bowl.
tom
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Post by phylowgreen on May 30, 2019 19:42:43 GMT -5
I’m telling you my plastic float has a metal tab where the needle hangs. I tried to attach a pic but there’s no option.
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Post by FrankenMech on May 30, 2019 22:23:49 GMT -5
I have seen plastic floats with metal tabs in many applications. There are options for attaching pics, many people do it. There is an explanation thread somewhere on how to do it. It is in the 'Lobby' section. |
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Post by GrumpyUnk on Jun 2, 2019 11:41:34 GMT -5
Re attaching images... Directly above where I am typing there is a box in the "Quick Reply" plop that has the words: "Insert Image" .... It works for me. Clock on it and select an image to upload. There are limits on size and file format allowed.  I just posted the above image "Kymco Wiring" a GIF file. I do not deny you may have a metal tab on your float. Perhaps I missed that feature... Mostly I have not touched the float level on any of the ones I have fiddled with, figuring they ran before I did a thing, were parked, and now I am messing around but think the float level is one of the last things I'd ever fiddle with. tom |
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