lupo76
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 157
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Post by lupo76 on May 20, 2019 1:01:43 GMT -5
Tomhyyt, where are you located? Like what country?
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Post by tomhyyt on May 21, 2019 13:58:20 GMT -5
Tomhyyt, where are you located? Like what country? I'm in Finland thanks for asking. Pretty hard to find any oarts locally priced nowhere near wise.
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lupo76
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 157
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Post by lupo76 on May 22, 2019 1:13:55 GMT -5
Ah I see. Locally it´s everywhere hard, unless you´re in Taiwan etc. You must look in eBay.
I´ll send you a private message with a link.
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Post by tomhyyt on May 22, 2019 12:40:55 GMT -5
So the new carb arrived. Looks like a true 20mm one. But i has a one more hos ecoming from the bottom of rhe bowl that was not in the sellers listings pictures. It's on the front side of the carburetor (intake side) and comes straight down from the bowl. I assume it's a vacuum line since there is the usual petrol and drain hoses in there too. EDIT: Heres the pictures of the new carb: I'll try it with the 81 main jet and 31 pilot that was in it already and see how iit goes. Now I did get a wrong size pilot jet kit so won't have a full kit jet to try out.
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Post by GrumpyUnk on May 22, 2019 17:46:15 GMT -5
I have not seen the fitting & hose shown in the last pic. Could be another float bowl vent that might connect to a charcoal canister to hold fuel vapor collected while parked to be fed back to the engine once it is started? As far as jetting, leave them alone until you have gotten your engine to start and run relatively well. Do any tuning after you have it working, and make only ONE change at a time when trying different things. tom
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Post by tomhyyt on May 24, 2019 2:24:59 GMT -5
I have not seen the fitting & hose shown in the last pic. Could be another float bowl vent that might connect to a charcoal canister to hold fuel vapor collected while parked to be fed back to the engine once it is started? As far as jetting, leave them alone until you have gotten your engine to start and run relatively well. Do any tuning after you have it working, and make only ONE change at a time when trying different things. tom That is exactly what I was going to do with the jets. I have to open uo the bowö and see where the extra hose goes. Will change the carb when I get well from my yearly apring flu. EDIT: Got a bit bored just lying around so opened up the bowl and took a picture where the hose goes. It goes to the circled channel and is separated from the fuel bowl. If I blow into it it goes to the intake side of the carb. Have to look more closely into this when I get better.
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Post by GrumpyUnk on May 27, 2019 12:01:00 GMT -5
Maybe it was slated for use on newer machines that perhaps don't have a vacuum port on the intake elbow. Got no clue. tom
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Post by tomhyyt on May 30, 2019 6:48:28 GMT -5
The new carb is in and has cured the no idle and dying on smallest trhottle changes after returning to idle. Altought it did not cure it all the problem is now so, small that it does not do any, harm when riding.I blocked the extra hise for now and it seems to work fine.
Now to the new not so nice flaw. After I changed the old oil out oncw again (couple weeks ago) it started to have a knocking sound from the crank. That is the only part that is original in this motor (altought it was ok when I did the bbk) so it might just have to go and new goes in.
This motor has been so much of a hassle from the previous owner. "never been touched" and "nothing tuning done to it" had pretty much every part changed from some lower spec model. Now I've out so much money to it that I will continue to get it going at this point.
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Post by tortoise2 on May 30, 2019 8:28:02 GMT -5
started to have a knocking sound from the crank MAY be bearing failure caused by BBK installation?
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Post by GrumpyUnk on May 30, 2019 14:00:18 GMT -5
If you get the rpms very low, it can sound knocky, or if the clutch is messed up, and won't allow the belt to travel out to the biggest diameter, it will sound bad. I think it has something to do with the engine not being able to move(rotate) as readily as normal, with a lot of pressure on the piston at low rpm. Almost like 'lugging' of old. tom
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Post by tomhyyt on Jun 1, 2019 13:43:35 GMT -5
started to have a knocking sound from the crank MAY be bearing failure caused by BBK installation? I'm going to chech the crank next and see if it has any excess movement in it. Last time I checked it did not have any movement trying from the variator side.
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Post by tomhyyt on Jun 1, 2019 13:46:54 GMT -5
If you get the rpms very low, it can sound knocky, or if the clutch is messed up, and won't allow the belt to travel out to the biggest diameter, it will sound bad. I think it has something to do with the engine not being able to move(rotate) as readily as normal, with a lot of pressure on the piston at low rpm. Almost like 'lugging' of old. tom Both good points and things that have to be checked once again. Idle sits now at around 1800-1900rpm where it seems to be most stable. This knocking occurs at all of the rev range. Might just have to write a list of checkups to do and start to do them one by one to see what the problem might be.
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Post by GrumpyUnk on Jun 2, 2019 11:47:27 GMT -5
You can get some clanking type noises from loose clutch bell or variator. One other thing is that low rpm can cause noise due to gear backlash in the final drive geartrain. If you remove the CVT cover, and rotate the clutch bell back and forth, you are checking the gear lash in the final drive gearbox. You may get more noise at idle(moreso with a slow idle) as the rotation of the crankshaft is not exactly constant, as the rpms will increase on the power stroke, lessen on exhaust & intake, and definitely slow on compression. There is no adjustment of gear lash, so either replace the gears/bearings if worn, or live with the noise. A complete set of replacement bearings and all gears are available if needed. tom
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Post by tomhyyt on Jun 8, 2019 7:25:26 GMT -5
This is how it behaves now.
Otherwise works fine (minus the sounds from variator/clutch after 6krpm and the new small sound from the engine itself after hot) but still when driving it even a small bit or revving it high up on stand it dies when returning to idle. The sound after 6krpm isn't as bad as on the video and comes from the transmission side. Might haveto try how it acts if I take the belt off.
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Post by GrumpyUnk on Jun 10, 2019 10:28:21 GMT -5
The sound that comes in around 5500-6000rpm may be a belt that is flapping up and down inside the CVT chamber.
I would check that the variator and clutch fasteners are tight. Take it for a ride(where there is load tension on the belt) and observe sound in that range. It may just be a quirk, revving w/o a load, allows for foolery noises. Other than that, it sounded good to me. tom
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