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Post by oldgeek on May 26, 2019 20:40:59 GMT -5
Here's what I'm starting with: I've already had all the fairings repainted; new badges and seat cover. All new handlebar controls and mirrors. I also put on the new exhaust the other night out of anxiety.. Of course, it ran horribly, but it was sooooo much quieter than the previous Technigas Silent Pro. I'm going to pull the engine out of it this afternoon and prep it for the parts to arrive this week. Will post more pics. FrontLeft Side Right SideHandlebarsRearWoW! You got that Vino looking way better than mine ever did. Take your time and you will have it running as good as it looks
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Post by pinkscoot on May 27, 2019 9:26:36 GMT -5
I hope you didn't paint it like the previous owner of one of my Vinos:
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Colter
Scoot Member
Live your life building new things.
Posts: 21
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Post by Colter on May 27, 2019 10:51:18 GMT -5
I hope you didn't paint it like the previous owner of one of my Vinos: WTF? When I first saw it I was thinking "oh, it's just a very catholic influenced culture". But then on second look I just became confused... Someone REALLY likes Da Vinci.
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Post by aeroxbud on May 27, 2019 11:46:31 GMT -5
I hope you didn't paint it like the previous owner of one of my Vinos: That's very classy. I hope they made you pay more for it. Being custom built and all.
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Colter
Scoot Member
Live your life building new things.
Posts: 21
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Post by Colter on May 27, 2019 13:57:30 GMT -5
Does anyone have any insight as to question 3?
Is it possible to upgrade the stator or some part of the power generation to level out the draws?
I've found a few new stator parts that generate ~14v at lower RPMs than the stock one (stock @ 5000RPM, most aftermarket @ 3000RPM).
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Post by oldgeek on May 27, 2019 14:14:34 GMT -5
They are 12? pole stator, better than most any scoot out there. I think the electrical system is also setup for DC already. You may be having a regulator issue or a ground issue. Some dimming of the headlight is normal operation. Have you set the idle to factory specs?
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Colter
Scoot Member
Live your life building new things.
Posts: 21
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Post by Colter on May 28, 2019 11:15:30 GMT -5
oldgeek It's an AC Magneto (F5BM) that, according to the service manual, delivers 14v /120w @5000rpm to the battery. I haven't messed with idle settings yet as it's all getting replaced this weekend anyway. My thoughts where if I can replace the stock stator with one that can generate the same voltage range at lower RPM's, then perhaps it would stabilize the system overall. A rectifier and regulator are easy to do later if need be.
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Post by repherence2 on May 29, 2019 21:10:13 GMT -5
don't forget to get a CHT (cylinder head temperature) gage so you can monitor temperature when tuning the carburetor.
a tachometer may be helpful in tuning the transmission.
buy a set of "Tuning Weights" for tuning the CVT. they are for tuning and are not meant for continuous use. but, it will help you figure it what weight of rollers are best suited for your set up. depending on what engine (95cc or 70cc) I have in the scoot, my set up runs 3.5g to 4.7g rollers.
I did Not buy Tuning Weights. I just kept going to the shop to buy weight sets. I ended up buying sets of Motoforce rollers from 3g to 6g, all the 0.3g increments.
did you ever consider just installing a 90cc engine?
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Colter
Scoot Member
Live your life building new things.
Posts: 21
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Post by Colter on May 30, 2019 10:29:24 GMT -5
It's got a brand new DR Pulley Variator Kit in it with 5g sliders. I'm thinking I may order 3g, 4g and 6g slider kits to tune with. Stagger them to get the 1/2 marks.
I hadn't considered a 90CC kit... hmmmmmmmmmmm
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Post by 190mech on May 30, 2019 16:50:55 GMT -5
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Post by ryan_ott on May 30, 2019 18:30:52 GMT -5
When you get into stroker cranks on Yamaha cases the material you remove leave the cases pretty thin. Without nice square cuts you may not have much meat left for sealing. I’d stick to 70 on Yamaha cases, the clones are thicker and allow for a higher margin of error which would be my preferred rig for a 90cc+.
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Colter
Scoot Member
Live your life building new things.
Posts: 21
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Post by Colter on May 31, 2019 9:45:32 GMT -5
When you get into stroker cranks on Yamaha cases the material you remove leave the cases pretty thin. Without nice square cuts you may not have much meat left for sealing. I’d stick to 70 on Yamaha cases, the clones are thicker and allow for a higher margin of error which would be my preferred rig for a 90cc+. Oh indeed. Beyond that, I like to tinker, but getting to the point where I'm machining the case is probably a little ridiculous. If I ever wanted to play with beyond 70cc's I'd just buy a new engine.
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Post by aeroxbud on Jun 1, 2019 15:32:31 GMT -5
Well I just ordered a Polini sport, and a high end crankshaft. To go with my Yasuni R, and 17mm carb which I already have. Looks like we will have a very similar build!
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Colter
Scoot Member
Live your life building new things.
Posts: 21
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Post by Colter on Jun 1, 2019 22:22:57 GMT -5
Ok,
I got the whole thing apart and I'm at the part where I need to remove the bearings off the old crankshaft.
There are plenty of tutorials on how to put them on the new shaft, but I can't find anywhere that says how to pull them off...
New shaft is going in the freezer tonight.
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Post by oldgeek on Jun 1, 2019 23:14:07 GMT -5
You need something like this to get the old bearing off. Bearing separatorYou are not going to reuse the old bearings on your new crank are you? Get yourself some new crank bearings!
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