its been a long time

[chehystpewpur]

well guys and gals ive been gone for what seems like forever but i have slowly been getting ole scooty puff jr ready to ride again. it seems like its grown up into sr while it was neglected but hey thats fine with me.

things accomplished

l.c. conversion

headlight swaps

projector hid conversion looks sweet

had to rebuild carb twice due to sitting

reeds were old and broke on me but not before a slew of tuning issues

overrange and clutch finally tuned for fun instead of taming down for a daily dd.

what i need to finish or could use some help on

mechanical water pump died and i thought it was due to the radiators i was a moron

need to swap on an electric water pump and finally got another one. i had 2 free ones but didnt work.

my main thing is trying to get more juice out of my electrical anyone have ideas?

i can get the system to charge with 1 headlight on when im accelerating aka 13k+ rpms but cruising and also idling obviously its at a constant drain. adding an electric water pump is going to pull atleast another amp or 2 from the tiny charging system and not gonna work. so i need some of your guys' infinite wisdom so i can finally finish this thing. im not using the stock headlight circuit for anything so maybe i could get another 80-130 watts from that? i think its ac current though so id have to use a regulator? i was going to try to use a mini 35 amp chevy 1 wire alt but that seems absurd and still too big. i found some lawnmower/tractor alts that may be smaller but still absurd. i did find an old stash of good rc car motors i used to have they are dc 12v motors so if they are spun it should make a dc voltage based on rpm maybe too high maybe too low. using a shunt on the power wire it should keep it from feeding back to the motor and just making it spin. if the dc motor doesnt have enough juice ive been looking at the ac brushless motors the big ones can be had for around 100 bux but could generate some juice but would need a regulator it seems. please tell me someone has a better idea or some tricks to pimp out my stock electrical.

bike in question is a keeway f-act with 30,000 miles of respect.

[aeroxbud]

Some of the HID kits can use quite a bit of power. Especially in start up.

This might help about the water pump current draw. 49ccscoot.proboards.com/thread/23915/water-pump-flow-current-draw

[90GTVert]

You could try converting to DC. I did it with mine, but honestly I don't think I can run an electric pump still. I have good charging with a 42W LED headlight and all LED lights otherwise. I can run an electric fan from time to time just fine, but I can't see it maintaining charging while powering an electric pump full time. Never tried though.

Maybe you could convert 1 headlight to a low watt LED that looks bright to onlookers for daytime use. That may at least help from dawn to dusk.

[chehystpewpur]

aerox thanks for the info on the pumps but i already knew this pump was going to be about 2 amps. i got the pump put on today but it doesnt seem to want to prime for me and the weather got crappy so i called it for the day. pump isnt using enough power to really drain the battery so thats going to be awesome i think its actually pulling closer to 1 amp if that. at idle the charge didnt go down by more than .2 volts.
90gt if you dont have a solution for charging i may have a tough path ahead of me. i will have to dust off some old dc motors i had lying around and see if i can get any useable charge from them if not ill have to use an ac motor from the large rc cars and a voltage regulator. now that the mechanical pump cover is gone and i dont have a fan in the way using a pulley and belt would be feasible i just really didnt want to. id even thought about using the oil pump drive gear to turn one but i feel like at those rpms it would shear off with plastic gears.
i had used led lights in the past for headlights but honestly i like these lights too much to go back even though i know the power draw on them isnt helpful the light output is awesome.

[chehystpewpur]

well i got over to my bike again yesterday and had to remove one of the rads i was using because i couldnt get the system to prime it almost would but just kept fighting me. its a knock off bosche pad style for 26 bux off amazon too cheap to not try. its 1/3 the price of the scooter site ones and less power draw. 2 rads left and it runs much better now. i can briefly hold my hand on the rad for about 1-2 seconds before it gets uncomfortable so i know its got to be below 210. if my tto wouldnt have died id have a better idea. but i was able to hold hand on rads when idling and could touch the cylinder and the head and dont have any burns i could even touch the cylinder head right after spirited drive for about as long as the rads. never have i been able to do that air or liquid cooled. im trying to borrow an ir temp gun to get a better estimate before i can buy a diff set of gauges that has temp on it. the koso one with the dial tach is expensive but its gonna be mine someday.
i looked for my old 12v dc motors but to no avail i only had 3 very small ones left everything else was gone oh well. i did find a rather meaty dc motor from an ahooga type horn. its about 3 inches wide and 4-5 inches long and can pull some pretty good amps which means it should be able to put out atleast a couple amps as a dc generator. so long as its not too much of a drain on the motor if it is ill just have to get a better cylinder. i have developed a very weird running issue though and would appreciate some thoughts. from low rpm when you hit it to build some revs sometimes it will gargle it sounds like a mouth full of mouthwash slowed down backfire out the exhaust a few times while its making that noise pop real good and take off like a rocket. i thought the float was set too low so it was spraying gas instead of atomizing it float was fine readjusted to close lower same. thought maybe the pilot jet was plugged so it was getting big jet at idle. nope clean and no change after full carb clean. thought maybe it was hog rich and litterally gargling fuel at low speed nope shes lean. reeds should be fine new were installed only a few miles before.
compression still feels good and new plug was used to check main jet. could the pilot being too fat really make it do that ive never experienced that on a 2t or could i be getting detonation possibly? its a stage6 sport pro mkii alu kit. i moved 1500 miles from the last place it was tuned for but temps are close less humidity and slightly higher elevation but nothing major i was actually expecting it to want less fuel here. im gonna get this tuning dilemma solved now that i can cool and drive it a little finally and work on making an ele motor test bench with some stuff i have laying around so i can figure out a decent charging solution before i make everything and find out it doesnt work. for now i can drive it about 30 mins to 1 hr before i could use a charge and can go again. maybe 2 hrs but that was before the water pump. once i can get thses things worked out and solved you guys may be in for a treat. so the faster you can help me solves this the faster we can get onto pics or it didnt happen. some of the older members may remember me saying i wanted to turbo it. thats still the plan. but i also may try a twin cylinder setup which would really help spool these little guys i have i still have those 2 tiny turbos just for this.

[chehystpewpur]

ok i got back over to it again and tidied up some wiring and got the battery charged back up for some more testing bike will run and run the pump with no battery and still keep a full voltage even at idle 14+ volts. so all who want an ele pump for cheap but dont have much electrical this is the pump. pulled out the pilot jet and had to change my pants. its a fing 42 # jet thats pretty big i need to find like a 38 maybe maybe even smaller. i put a little bigger main jet in and it was much happier on the top end and had crisper throttle at 55+ mph even at 60 mph it had more passing power. i opened the power valve on it and gained a little more power so i need to jet it a little higher on the main but didnt get a chance to test it. i used a 110 main i believe it was so maybe a 114 or 115 should be close. one of my radiators sprung a leak so i didnt want to have it blow out and cost a cylinder. it was free so i didnt complain about the small dent. i have another one ill use if i cant find a little smaller one for cheap locally.
on a side note though it looks as though i will be having to replace my headlights afterall. it got knocked over at somepoint since the last time i was there and it got rained on and i guess my headlights didnt like it. my balast for one light wont even kick on and stay on for 1 light i think its the bulb. and the other one will kick off after about 10 mins but will come back on if you shut it off and turn it back on. i think the circuit board got wet and didnt like it. ill keep the projectors for another project but i will get a lower power option for this one. i used a 35 watt motorcycle led projector kit before and it was alright so ill have to order another one and a headlight housing. aside from that its getting close to truly roadworthy again. im going to need to buy a set of front forks before too long tho. the seal started seeping recently and at 30k miles its pry time.

[chehystpewpur]

ok small update i was hoping for a magic response to electrical in the mean time but may not need one.
i ordered a 20$ bulb kit that are led's as a why not last ditch effort to use this headlight housing. i figured its 20 bux what do i really have to lose. they look to be a decent build quality and dont get super hot but do have a nice intense white beam that comes from them they are deff brighter than the cheapo led projectors i had in the past and brighter than pretty much halogen bulb ive came across so they may be able to work if they play nice with the projector housings i have. even if they are 80% of the brightness the hid's were it would be better than most car headlights. the only reason im really excited about this is i was able to turn one on and run it off a 2 amp 12v dc power supply. it has a safety shutoff if something pulls over 2 amps i think i could probably turn both on with 3 amps but this power supply may kick both on it didnt struggle with the 1 at all and ive seen pc fans and old hard drives make it work a little. i should be getting the replacement radiator tuesday or weds so will hopefully get all that put on in the very near future.
also picked up some pilot jets to see if i can get it to idle a little better im pretty sure that should make the weird bottom end go away while im swapping that out ill swap the main jet out and hopefully have it ready to run long enough to really get the carb dialed in before winter hits. id love to get it repainted finally and have an interesting color scheme i think it could back up and if i ever get to do a twin cylinder kit or my tiny turbo will really fit the bikes absurdity.

[chehystpewpur]

ok another update though i dont think anyone is interested at this point. i got the scoot moved to where i live finally so i dont have to go anywhere to mess with it. and it cant come into any more damage when im not messing with it so thats a big plus. i need to do some adjusting of the projector housing now that new bulbs are in. these bulbs are a little less intense/bright compared to the xenon hids but that was expected. i get a little ghosting or shadows in the projector housing so i need to get the angles back to right on them most likely disturbed when it fell or when i was hacking everything up and had to take the projector housings apart 4 million times for test fitting and just couldnt notice with all the light from hids. either way light output is better than stock and atleast as good as 1 hid light on from before so ill take it.

on to the electrical side. with no battery both headlights will run and water pump will run at idle so as far as im concerned thats a major win and no more electrical worries or custom fabbing.

i tried the pilot jets i picked up and went with the leanest one i bought since i already have the too rich effect going on and for sure the weird running i had was a pilot jet that looked like jabba the hut let himself go. 42 pilot jet was way too big and a 35 pilot may also be a little rich but i didnt let the bike warm up for super long. it idled 10 mins wouldnt get hot then i gave a quick throttle burp and for the first time in years it pulled right off idle. like good. at half throttle it went from idle to 9200 rpms almost like butter and on an idle to almost wot it launched at 9500 but i didnt want to make the neighbors mad as it was almost getting dark. i also raised the main jet up to a 118 and closed the power jet so i can find out if it wants more fuel at wot the lazy way. after the very brief run i finally had some heat in the radiators and it quickly started getting rich at idle but wasnt really hot yet either. tried burping the coolant system but couldnt get any bubbles to move so it may have just primed well on its own. after some testing on the road again ill be able to see if i need a smaller pilot jet but i dont want to go much smaller. decel could become sketchy.

either way i cut it its going to be a menace on the roads even running as is so im stoked to get it back on the road after i can order some blinkers. even from a stop the front end got way lighter than i wanted it to but im ok with that now that its not going to be a daily driver.

[chehystpewpur]

well i found my old registration and sticker i paid for a year ago almost. decided you know what im gonna take this puppy out for a quick run today and replumbed the cooling system i did infact still have air in it that wouldnt move. i like the setup for the rads better now and the angle for the pump is much better along with much nicer coolant hose routing and none of the hoses have to get too close or touch the carb so i dont have to worry about it heating the intake or fuel up much. zip tied my stupid broken blinker up so its not dangling and was visible. i have to wait till the day after tomorrow to get my drill to mount new blinkers so least i can still ride it.

headlights were good nice intensity at a distance which severely surprised me they seemed a little dim up close when adjusting the bulbs but on the road they light up everything much better than stock and pretty close to the what the xenon hids did since they had older bulbs. they dont scatter or look bad on the ground like the stockers and led spot lights did. very flat wide and full lighted area like projectors should be. re aimed bulbs some to see if i could aim them better since it was real world and they got a little better. i have no complaints and would still be happy if i pain 100 bux for this bulb kit vs the measly 20 bux i spent on it. it is a direct replacement for about 850 bux worth of hardware in my eyes especially considering price. each ballast is 330 bux and bulbs are about 100 apiece. add some tax and or shipping and i wasnt going to pay that. better than most halogen headlights ive had stock and better than some factory projectors ive seen or used on some stock cars. best 20 bux ive spent for sure.

on a side note the carb was jetted a little rich but id rather be rich than lean. it was about 60-64 out and was cutting up at wot but still ran strong and the bottom end was so much crisper than it ever has been before with this carb. but with as cool as this thing was running and as cold as it was outside it would still get rich at idle and id have to clear its throat or it would stall. is it possible a 36 is too rich of a pilot jet? im worried to go lower on pilot but it seems to want it. on a hot day its gonna want less fuel at idle and im thinking about getting a 32 and 34 pilot but trying 34 first to be safe. its a hoca pwk/oko clone carb with power jet i think its the 19mm but may be a 21mm. ill try a 114 jet and can adjust with the power jet if it needs a little more fuel. but most likely will fall on a 112. needle clip is in the middle and seems like dropping the needle 1 slot will be much more appropriate for this setup.
might try a little heavier weights now that it revs better on the low end with the motor cutting up like it was i could feel it made really good torque a little lower than my cvt is tuned for so with it running right hitting final gear in the cvt in the torque band should max it out better around 9600-9800 rpm. then i might pull my tall gears a little better and pick up some top end when it wants to rev on the hp side of things till 11-12k.

[chehystpewpur]

ok so another quick update. went out today and got some more carb tuning done and noticed my exhaust was leaking some its so hard to tell with how loud this thing is but i got it to seal up and could not feel any more puffs of exhaust around the mounting flange but will need to get another gasket soon incase this one was damaged. after i fixed the leak and rejetted the carb to a 115 main jet and it was still running pig rich if not richer than i was with the 118 main jet. good air leak was causing it to want some more fuel. rejetted down to a 112 main jet and it was starting to clear up. rejetted down to a 108 main jet and still a little rich but now that its not sputtering out at 10k rpms it started to wake up and pull to 11.2k rpms even better. pulled the plug a few times and it was wet even with the 108 it was pretty wet. im going to try to check squish on sunday to make sure everything didnt settle and its out of spec or something that could cause it being so rich since compression would be lower along with fixing an air leak so it would need less fuel too. put some fresh 93 octane in it and it deff ran a little better so im gonna have to run the tank out and get a full fresh tank in it i think i can handle that.

i have seen that a water cooled 2t can prefer to run leaner since your not using fuel to cool the motor anymore but i just dont feel safe running it this lean somebody anybody tell me im crazy. last time i ran this cylinder it was air cooled and liked a 118 main towards the end of its life. i run more rpms now with the lc cylinder and also aam 800 feet higher elevation wise where i live now but humidity is down and so are ambient temps. motor cooling is also much better now vs early tuning with lc so i guess that could call for less fuel. i can go wot for 2 miles straight and not get it to really heat up and have the plug be wet. ive known this bike for 30k miles as air cooled so if someone with liquid cooling could say something id really appreciate it.

on a side note an older guy seen me walking to it and started asking me about it so i told him how fast it goes and he didnt believe me and i told him didnt you see the curly q exhaust on it and he told me no and ran over to the side. and started looking like a kid in a candy store and begged me to start it for him so he could hear that crack pipe as he called it lmao. he said hes always loved the 2 stroke dirt bike crackle so he calls it that. im not gonna lie that name had me dying so i fired it up for him and gave it a few quick revs and shut it off and we talked about it for another 10 mins. he wanted to see it go so i gave it a quick run down the road and back and he was in love. he told me he knew i wasnt lying after we talked the first time but couldnt believe that it went like that and just didnt stop going. he lived right down the road so i offered to drop him off infront of where he lives and he said he would have taken that offer if i didnt just show him how quick it was. but he hoped hed see me out and about when i get the carb dialed in and hell atleast watch it go again but he has no interest in getting on it.

[chehystpewpur]

well i was lazy today and did not check squish i dont think that is my problem but i may check it tomorrow for kicks as i need to pull the plug out and check the color i think im finally getting close on the carb but am going to try a step warmer or maybe 2 steps hotter of a plug just incase also think i might do a little messing with the variator tomorrow if i can get a chance to ride it over to my nearest air compressor i can use. not going to do it all at once though too many headaches that way. rejetted down to a 102 today with my runs and im getting close. when the pipe hit on this thing it hit hard. i couldnt stop slowing down just to speed up any excuse really. never on a scoot did i think id say anything about an exhaust actually hitting but it pulled harder than some dirtbikes ive rode. im going to try to get a video of it one of these days soon. and i found my old set of stock gears so im trying to not convince myself to put them back in. i think when i put my aprilia motor together or i may use my "stock" case i fear the transmission may be weaker because its a shortcase style so has less support on the input shaft. either way im for sure going 12.5 or 12 for the gear ratio. these 9.8 or 10:1 gears are a little tall but i am getting full belt travel on the variator now that the motor is revving better.
i didnt really open it up all the way today but it wasnt going to have a problem hitting 65 even being pretty windy. could cruise at 55 or 60 with almost no throttle and great throttle response whenever i wanted to go. it does want a smaller pilot and i dont have to worry about decel soft seizes i could run it hard and just let off and engine brake and it would cough and sputter from being too rich i would have to do my normal throttle snaps on decel to keep it from loading up. after i get paid i will be buying a 30 and 32 pilot jet and may need to buy some smaller main jets idk if i have anything below a 100 for this style carb. all in all im really liking the watercooling so far other than the initial headaches of having to relearn everything tuning wise because its a very different motor now. i think once i have the carb dialed in its gonna be a 70 mph bike all day long. with a better exhaust im gonna have a hard time not shaming everything i see on the road.

[oldgeek]

It takes lots of time on these "simple" 2T's to get them really happy. But it's soooo worth it!

[chehystpewpur]

Sept 8, 2019 21:06:19 GMT -5 oldgeek said:

It takes lots of time on these "simple" 2T's to get them really happy. But it's soooo worth it!

it almost seems counterproductive most days to try to get them "happy" due to 2 strokes being angry and primitive in design but the end result does have a satisfaction you cant find anywhere else. it finally warmed up a little outside today was pretty cool so i didnt make it outside to mess with it but im going to try and get some pictures of how things are mounted my overly simple coil on plug and these headlights in action. also i may try to get an acceleration video if i find a good place. its pretty nice being able to stretch its legs on all the 55 mph roads around here.

[chehystpewpur]

ok another small update whether yall wanna hear it or not. drove it all over the place today after i got out of work and lets just say i went alot farther than i should have on it but hey nothing broke and i had zero issues. got some pictures of headlight setup but its hard to show brightness due to having a really good fone camera. i also got some shots of my coil on plug location now and where the radiators are at. if you werent looking for them youd never know but i actually have great airflow over both. the bottom one looks like air wouldnt go over it but it comes through the front and also the foot rest where the battery box used to be and blows through it towards the ground. the one on the back under the tail gets a ton of air when going down the road. i got 2 quick gps snapshots of what it hit on a short ride to a gas station and back when i was about done screwing around today. and what the plug looked like when i got home with the 102 main jet on a pretty warm day. close to 100 miles on it today so i could get a good color on it and its much drier than it has been. a 100 would pry be about right for it its looking like maybe a hair less fuel.

drive.google.com/drive/folders/0By2rcNqfITkKdlYxWWY2Wm5nZ0k?usp=sharing
old ebay projector kit. it was decent but i wanted more and oncoming drivers didnt like too much because they didnt have a cut off.

drive.google.com/drive/folders/1RBT9PhkCx-qpxbVyp3Pg4r5EntCMQZbn?usp=sharing
a few random pics from when i was doing the surgery installing the real projector kit.
the blue bulbs are the new led hids that are now in the projector housing and thats a quick show of light intensity and the cut off. the 3 pics with the brigther background were with the lights on in the shed to try to show the beam pattern better. it cut down on the glow it had so u can see there is no dim areas in the beam pattern. quick video at the end to show how fast the lights turn on and off and that there is no warm up. the camera adjust exposure when they go on and off but its the same brightness. also that projector lens is fing huge in the headlight housing it looks like owl eyes to me but sadly the fl sun yellowed the headlight housing lens so i need to figure out a way to clean that up or find a replacement. if anybody has an idea please tell me im in need.

drive.google.com/drive/folders/11ElO7aJLVWWfeoAPu6dYoTYS-kruWJ70?usp=sharing
last but not least here is the pics of rad locations water pump location and where i moved the coil on plug to. i zip tied it into place so when i need to take the plug out i can just turn it 90 degrees and its out of the way but it cant pop off the plug under any circumstance. the 3 pictures are from a gps speed capture app. first was to show its clear. second was on the way so it was warming up so i just cruised and the last pic was a quick wot before i started catching up to traffic and decided to be responsible.

[chehystpewpur]

update for today. tried to get smaller main jets and the powersports shop near me didnt have any that small and their supplier doesnt have pilot jets smaller than a 35 so im going to have to look on the interwebs for that but ordered a few main jets and should have them tomorrow when i get off work. may ride ole scooty puff sr over there to get them. why not? most likely rejet in the parking lot and have some fun on the way home.

i picked up a 3/8 to 5/8 coolant t to try a diff spot in my system to fill as i heard some bubbles in the system after all this running ive done. now i dont have to burp the system to get coolant to flow and it purges on its own and circulates some coolant through the bottle as the pump is running im much happier this way and it runs a little cooler.

also i picked up a headlight restore kit from 3m since that was my best guess looking elsewhere to try to find solutions because nobody has chimed in on anything ive been asking about in almost 2 months. luckily the kit did alright and got almost all of the yellow off the lenses and has a new coat of uv "protectant" to go bad in who knows how long. now that i know what im doing with the kit isnt going to make it worse next time i have to use one ill get a little more aggressive with the sanding. i was afraid i was gonna melt the lens with the polishing and sanding pads but no ill effects. i can see my sexy projectors again and one of these days ill have to pull the front fairing off and clean the inside of the lenses up from when it got knocked over and got some dirt and dust in there. nothing major but now that i can see it its gonna drive me nuts. anyways pictures and such.

drive.google.com/drive/folders/1gsx9V26FARSJ-HtWmMGVoZdY17IGniQB?usp=sharing

i took some during the day photos to show even with the sun out its pretty intense light considering that was between 3-5 pm the light photos were taken. also because its similar angles for the photos you can see how far these things shine at night. they are every bit as bright as when it was the xenon hids with old bulbs. i did 1 light for each side and both for the pictures of distance and up against the shed but its hard to tell whats what because its just stinkin bright. its hard to tell with the camera at night but in the distance shots i had to point between the apartment building and a house down the road or else somebody would have had some extra light in their house or apartment and not like me too much.
in the 6th picture in the album there is a bush on the far side of the fence from be and on the apartment side of the fence. that bush is getting some light on it from all the way back here. i also have the scoot pointed down slightly because i figured that would be the nice thing to do since the driveway is slanted here and it would show the affected area better and keep light out of the apt. initially i was going to use the back of the apt building as a flat surface but people started turning their outside lights on and off so i decided that was prolly them saying stahp.

there is also a trailer park past the apartments and across the main road where that van was at in the 6th picture that road is 5 lanes wide but looks skinny. its just that far. i was lighting stuff up over there when i stood the scoot up straight like reflectors and signs still angled down the driveway slightly. i took some pictures of how dark it is out to show how dark that area really was and also to show how awkward it is trying to take pics of light at night with this camera. the camera dims the light with the exposure just like it tries to brighten the image when there is no light. if i used my other camera it would be worse. much worse. its a much better camera than this one.