How To : Repack A Silencer Feb 14, 2010 21:11:21 GMT -5
Post by 90GTVert on Feb 14, 2010 21:11:21 GMT -5
Repacking A Silencer
I used FMF 2 Stroke Performance Muffler Packing for this task. I added this whole bag to one silencer. Some have said that this bag should do 4 or 5 silencers. I had used 1/2 bag previously, and it didn't work very well. Packed with the whole bag, it's working great.
This process may vary slightly with different aftermarket pipes, but most are basically the same.
If equipped, remove the bolt securing the outlet end of the silencer to the bracket welded to the expansion chamber of the pipe.
Remove the 3 nuts attaching the inlet of the silencer to the pipe's flange. Mine require a 10mm wrench or socket.
Remove the silencer and take notice of the exhaust gasket between the flange and silencer. It will often stick to the silencer or flange. If it doesn't come off easily, inspect it's condition. If it is damaged, you will probably want to scrape it off and clean the surfaces so you can use a fresh gasket or a sealant later. If it is in good condition, you may wish to leave it where it is so you can reuse it.
There should be 3 studs sticking out of the silencer's inlet end. Gently tap those until they are flush with the silencer to begin removing the core.
Grab the outlet end of the silencer, and you should now be able to pull it free from the case.
Remove all of the old packing material, and clean the metal core of the silencer. I used brake parts cleaner. If your silencer is gunked up, you may need to use both a chemical cleaner and a hard bristled brush. Make sure none of the holes are clogged.
Now it's time to repack the silencer with new material. Some people like to wrap an initial layer of steel wool around the core of the silencer and then finish wrapping with a packing material. I chose to go with only the FMF packing material. If necessary, you can wrap a small bit of masking tape around the material to keep it in place or wrap the packing with wire to keep it in place. I did not need it.
Make sure you get plenty of material up under the end cap as well.
Once the core is nearly all the way back in, you may want to put a light coating of copper RTV sealant around the lip of the core to help seal the core and case together. Once coated, finish pushing the core in, being sure to line the studs on the inlet side of the silencer up with their holes in the casing. It may be necessary to lightly tap the silencer with a soft rubber mallet to get it completely into the case.
Use either copper RTV, a new gasket, or the old gasket if it is in good condition and attach the silencer to the pipe again. Tighten the nuts to secure the silencer.
Reinstall the bracket to the outlet end of the silencer.