First post here, hope you can help- I recently bought a Yamaha CA50 Riva for twenty bucks at a yard sale. While the cylinder was at the local dealer getting bored (along with a new piston and rings), I went over the rest of the scooter with a fine toothed comb, including the carburator.
It was nice to finally get her started but she has no power under load. Once she's warmed up she idles fine and revs responsively as long as the rear tire is off the ground but when I try to ride it she'll only go about ten miles an hour. If I open the throttle wide open it just bogs down.
It's a 1984 with only 1700 miles on it and it's really not in too bad of shape, considering. It has a new battery, a clean carb, a new coil, and a new spark plug. I disconnected the auto lube hose to the carb, and plugged it off, (I think it failed on the previous owner and suspect that is why the cylinder was in such bad shape) and premixed the oil 32:1. The muffler appears to be clear of obstructions but drips oil. (Am I mixing too much oil?)
Why don't I have any power or rpm's? Thanks in advance...
CVT? Central Velosity Terminal? Hehe. I don't know what a CVT is. I downloaded a service manual and it doesn't list a CVT. It does have a CDI though (I don't know what CDI stands for either). This is my first scooter ever so I'm not real knowlegeable about them, but maybe this will help...
The key switch has three positions. Off, start, and run. If I try to rev the scoot while the key is in the "start" position it just goes Blarrrraaaaaaaaaa. Even if the rear wheel is off the ground. I can't get it off of idle. When I turn the key to "run" it's better, but only by about 50%. I THINK the CDI has something to do with spark, as it feeds the ignition coil. Maybe is advances or limits the spark, like a governor or something? It doesn't spit or spatter or miss-fire or anything like that, it just won't go.
I have a new project. The CVT! I had the cover off and cleaned out all the belt goo from within, but didn't go any further. By watching the above half hour video I can see how that can be a possible solution to my problem. If that system is all gunked up and can't move freely that might limit things. Makes sence to me. You're a good mechanic sir! But I'm gonna use two hands for the repair!
Well, I took it all apart today and there are definately issues that need to be addressed. The one thing that I'm not sure of is the Primary Sheave Assembly. Inside of it are 6 rollers and some of them have flat spots. Not real bad but flat spots nonetheless. I believe I'll replace them but there's the grease issue. Should the surface where the rollers ride on the housing have grease? The only place where there was grease was along the inside of the outside walls of the assembly, probably misplaced because of cyntrifical force? That would tell me that this assembly should be serviced periodically correct?
Anyway, I think I'll order some parts for the CVT along with a new belt because what I did to it today had no effect on performance, but I sure did learn a whole lot. I video'd the whole thing today. Maybe I'll do some editing tonight and post it. Maybe y'all will see something I missed or have some helpful hints for me.
I sure do appreciate the help I've gotten so far. Thank you all very much! Bill
Here's an initial look at what I found when I pulled the cover off. Keep in mind that I already had the cover off once before and cleaned out massive amounts of belt residue. I didn't want to spend more than I had to until I knew what I was in for but I'm almost at $500.00 so this has to be done now too. One way or another I'm gonna get 'er road-worthy! I'll put up another one on the Primary Sheave (with the rollers) and y'all can tell me what you think I should do- If you would be so kind... www.youtube.com/watch?v=xokPJB8ufLw
that belt is toast way toast that is part of your probelm plus the rusty torque driver wont help when you add a new belt it will chew it up and that is a style of varatior that gets grease yes the clutch shoes look glazed over and now that i saw the inside i do not think prebug parts will work
I'm pretty sure now that I know what the Variator? does now but I post this video just so you can see the inside of it and if it looks salvageable. I don't think I can just get those rollers but I'm not sure yet. I might have to buy the whole assembly. Oh boy!
I think I have a video of the cleaned-up torque driver plate. If I do I'll post that too and you can tell me if you think I can still use it. They're not even listing the clutch assenbly in the catalogue so I don't know if I can get parts for that either. I'll know tomorrow. youtu.be/21UqPqXTTZk
you will need to put all 6 of them on a scale that measures grams and get an average weight it should be around 6.5 to 7.5 grams then you need to measure the dia and the width there are oem yamaha 50 so im going to guess the athey are 15x12mm once you know what size and how many grams if its a fairly common size you can order them i doubt you will be able to get may parts from yamaha any more as most of the parts are discontinued for the 1984 ca50 at least thats what i get from cheapcycleparts.com
the grease goes in the tracks that the rollers go in
6.5 to 7.5 gram rollers? I'm used to Chinese 2Ts, but mine came with 4-5g stock. Is that something with the design of those engines/CVTs/gear ratios that they need all that weight or could that be part of the low revs if they're that heavy?
raelhi: i bought a 150cc 157QMJ engine for 80 bucks, it has compression but the problem is the starter motor housing is cracked, no cvt cover and no shroud
Nov 24, 2013 8:35:38 GMT -5
raelhi: this is the engine: http://honolulu.craigslist.org/oah/mcy/4170079976.html
Nov 24, 2013 9:08:43 GMT -5
raelhi: how do you remove the bushings on the mounting bracket?
Nov 24, 2013 20:40:57 GMT -5
90GTVert: Sometimes you can use a bolt, nut, washer, and socket to remove bushings. Put the bolt through a nut that is small enough to pass through with the bushing, so bushing diameter or just smaller. Put that through the bushing. On the other side, put a socket..
Nov 25, 2013 8:14:47 GMT -5
90GTVert: large enough for the bushing to pass into it, but able to line up with the mount so it has something to be pulled against. Then you'll prob want a washer on the end of the socket nearest the end of the bolt. Then a nut. Tighten and it should pull out.
Nov 25, 2013 8:16:15 GMT -5
90GTVert: Pay close attention as you do it so nothing gets crooked and you don't damage anything. Bolt and nut could actually be on either side, could use a threaded rod and 2 nuts instead of a bolt. As long as it's all braced it can only pull one way.
Nov 25, 2013 8:19:41 GMT -5
twowheelinjim: I've really grown to appreciate these scooters. They respond like a furry pet when given some attention. And, when neglected, they let you know... I've already run into the classic hard starting issues. It is usually caused by a component
Nov 29, 2013 10:25:08 GMT -5
twowheelinjim: like oldsman stated. My 50cc scooter liked the throttle cranked several times allowing the accelerator pump to squirt a bit of fuel into the intake and she started right up. That's how I prime my old Harley. I bet the two bikes were having a chat one night
Nov 29, 2013 10:29:01 GMT -5
twowheelinjim: and that's where the scooter picked up this habit.
Nov 29, 2013 10:29:30 GMT -5
Tony: heyo mech190 the goodyear blimp just droned its way directly over me head... heading over to you !!!
Nov 29, 2013 16:55:35 GMT -5
raelhi: is a gy6 50cc rectifier the same as a 150cc rectifier?
Dec 5, 2013 17:05:12 GMT -5
quikjake: hey can anybody please tell me what bulb size is in my 2007 triton r4?
Dec 6, 2013 3:18:08 GMT -5
quikjake: is it h11? or h7
Dec 6, 2013 3:18:50 GMT -5
90GTVert: My Tritons are both a few years older, but they're BA20D. I assume the newer are the same.
Dec 6, 2013 9:52:17 GMT -5
stupidscooterguy: Just want to shout a big Thank you to all who are helping in http://49ccscoot.proboards.com/thread/7723/2002-moskito-suddenly-power-throt
Dec 12, 2013 0:04:53 GMT -5
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