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Post by jmkjr72 on Apr 25, 2012 13:28:23 GMT -5
thats pretty much the standerd for yamahas thats why i was guessing in that range
but also yamahas come with diffrent gearing then the clone 2 strokes too in the 14 to 1 range instead of the 11 to 1 range of the clones
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Post by william on Apr 25, 2012 18:53:34 GMT -5
I found out today that the belt for the CVT (14T-17641-00) has been discontinued and is hard to get at a decent price. I did a search on Google and found two sites that list this belt as 792X14mm. 792 mm is better than 31 inches long and my belt measures roughly 30 1/2". I doubt that it had shrunk so I don't trust those dimentions.
Does anyone know the exact dimentions of this belt? The length, width, and pitch? Mine is so worn that I doubt I can get the right one using it as an example at a local store.
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Post by jmkjr72 on Apr 25, 2012 19:07:17 GMT -5
you might want to consider a newer yamaha belt but those are 17mm wide belts and not 14mm wide belts but i think it might work for you pn used for your scoot 14T-17641-00-00 V-BELT 30E-17641-00-00 part number for the newer horizontal and vertical zumas 3AA-17641-00-00 but then again the vino is a short case and it has the same 17641 numbers in it if you go here and enter the 30e number that i listed it shows avalable for 50 bucks and thats about average for a yamaha belt speedsupplies.com/partslisting.asp?position=485&increment=500&category=YA |
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Post by reveeen on Apr 25, 2012 19:53:49 GMT -5
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Post by william on Apr 25, 2012 21:40:46 GMT -5
792mm = 31.18in. 14mm=.55" 17mm=.66"
I went to the local auto supply store and got a 31.5"X17mm belt and tried that. I would think that that's close enough to tell me if the problem were in the CVT. I looked over the CVT again when I installed the belt and I believe that everything is working as it should be.
I still have the exact same problem. I just can't get any speed out of it. If I open the throttle too far it just boggs down and will even threaten to stall if I don't back off of it. For a recap- If it's on the kickstand it will rev just fine and I have all kinds of rpm's but when I ride it it does the bogg down thing. No matter what I try, no matter how slow I open the throttle, it will not rev past a certain point when I ride it.
If y'all still think it could still be something with the CVT, I'm listening, but could the CDI have something to do with it? And if it did why would it work fine with no load but not work fine with a load?
The same with the Carb. If there was a problem there why wouldn't it work ok with a load on it?
Ok, I'm all ears...
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Post by jmkjr72 on Apr 25, 2012 21:54:43 GMT -5
well you have to put a load on an engine to tune a carb
also if the belt isnt right you will need to retune the trans to work with the new belt
if you frequent yamaha boards you will find out that they dont like belts other then yamaha belts
have you found and replaced the rollers yet
did you relube the torque driver after you took it apart cleaned the sruface and put it back together
also a weak contra spring could cause the issue you are talking about
as it would be colapsing too fast and shifting into high gear too fast
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Post by william on Apr 25, 2012 22:16:58 GMT -5
I have found a place that sells the rollers but I will have to get the specks for mine first.
I cleaned and re-lubed the torque driver yes but didn't replace the spring. I'll look into that as well.
And I will definately take a look at the Yamaha boards.
Thanks...
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Post by william on Apr 26, 2012 8:23:53 GMT -5
I found and ordered a new Fixed Secondary Sheave for the one that was pitted so bad on the clutch, a new Yamaha belt, and a Contra Spring. I sure hope y'all are stearing me in the right direction. I guess it needed those pasrts anyway so what the hell.
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Post by 90GTVert on Apr 26, 2012 9:28:58 GMT -5
Even if it's not the CVT, from the looks of the vid you did need to go over it if you plan to use this scooter for long.
Another thought, you said it has a clean carb. I just wanted to make sure you checked the main jet and made sure it was clear and used compressed air and carb cleaner in every passage.
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Post by william on Apr 26, 2012 17:33:51 GMT -5
I totally disassembled the carb. Every single piece, and blew every single passageway and jets out with compressed air and verified that they were unobstructed both visually (with a flashlight shining through the holes) and could feel the air through the holes as well. It was clean as a whistle except for the float chamber. It had dried gas crystal things in the bottom of it. The carb also has a vacuum operated device on it that I don't know what it does but I took it apart as well. It was clean and clear and the diaphram was in good shape. And now I find out that the order I placed was cancelled because the parts are no longer available. They said they had them, now they say they don't. This is like pulling teeth! I must become a Dentist because I WILL get this thing running one day. Prolly in 5 years and at a cost of 1.2 million dollars, but she's gonna run!  |
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Post by 90GTVert on Apr 26, 2012 17:48:58 GMT -5
lol Well I'm sorry for your difficulties, but admire your determination. This is part of why I like the GY6 and horizontal minarelli motors, they are common so parts aren't a huge pain... but even with them certain things can be difficult to get.
It really shouldn't be an issue, but just to be certain, might wanna do a compression test. I know you said it was getting redone, but I always check my engines after I build them. Another thing that can make a 2T act weird is a case leak. We've got articles showing how to make a leak tester cheap in the Tech Library.
Also noticed you said the muffler drips oil. If this is out the end, not just a leak at the engine, I assume it smokes heavily? Do your plugs come out oil fouled?
Just searching for other things you can go over while waiting on parts.
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Post by william on Apr 26, 2012 18:23:11 GMT -5
Oil drips out of the mufflers end yes, not at the gasket, which is new. It smokes pretty good but I wouldn't say like the foggers did when we were kids. (And used to ride our bikes through! We get, thankfully, older and wiser.) I was thinking about leaning out the mixture but don't want to comprimise lubrication either. Especially with the new piston, etc. Is it a possibility that there is too much oil, therefore not enough gas/air for proper combustion and power?
I just had a look see at the spark plug. It's a little wet in one spot on the bottom of the plug threads but the rest is dry and light brown in color. The gap is good.
I of course used new gaskets and the surfaces were well cleaned when I put the cylinder back in so I wouldn't think it would be leaking from there. I'll do the research on where else the crankcase could be leaking and check those areas too. I appreciate all the good advice!
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Post by jmkjr72 on Apr 26, 2012 19:01:15 GMT -5
did you clean the pipe out
it might be partialy blocked also
it should cause issues with out a load but if its not too bad the issues may not come noticeable till under a load
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Post by 90GTVert on Apr 26, 2012 19:50:59 GMT -5
Common areas for case leaks would be the crank seals. I'd think it's worth checking given the age of the scoot and that the seals are rubber.
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Post by william on Apr 26, 2012 20:22:37 GMT -5
Well, I just ran down to the local Auto Zone and borrowed a compression tester from them. I threaded it into the head, tightened it down, opened the throttle wide, hit the starter and found I have 90 psi. Is that good?
The bad news is that it takes 25 seconds for the pressure to drop back down to 0 psi's. I'm thinking that's not good. I suppose it's possible for the tester to be leaking but with my luck, and like you said "the age of the vehicle", it's probably leaking somewhere else. Dammit Jim! Hehe. Ahhh shoot, I have nothing better to do anyway. I guess I'll have a look at them seals...
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there's no air sucking in the carb of my dio2. compression in block is ok. please help me pls pls pls 