I found out today that the belt for the CVT (14T-17641-00) has been discontinued and is hard to get at a decent price. I did a search on Google and found two sites that list this belt as 792X14mm. 792 mm is better than 31 inches long and my belt measures roughly 30 1/2". I doubt that it had shrunk so I don't trust those dimentions.
Does anyone know the exact dimentions of this belt? The length, width, and pitch? Mine is so worn that I doubt I can get the right one using it as an example at a local store.
792mm = 31.18in. 14mm=.55" 17mm=.66" I went to the local auto supply store and got a 31.5"X17mm belt and tried that. I would think that that's close enough to tell me if the problem were in the CVT. I looked over the CVT again when I installed the belt and I believe that everything is working as it should be.
I still have the exact same problem. I just can't get any speed out of it. If I open the throttle too far it just boggs down and will even threaten to stall if I don't back off of it. For a recap- If it's on the kickstand it will rev just fine and I have all kinds of rpm's but when I ride it it does the bogg down thing. No matter what I try, no matter how slow I open the throttle, it will not rev past a certain point when I ride it.
If y'all still think it could still be something with the CVT, I'm listening, but could the CDI have something to do with it? And if it did why would it work fine with no load but not work fine with a load?
The same with the Carb. If there was a problem there why wouldn't it work ok with a load on it?
I have found a place that sells the rollers but I will have to get the specks for mine first. I cleaned and re-lubed the torque driver yes but didn't replace the spring. I'll look into that as well. And I will definately take a look at the Yamaha boards. Thanks...
I found and ordered a new Fixed Secondary Sheave for the one that was pitted so bad on the clutch, a new Yamaha belt, and a Contra Spring. I sure hope y'all are stearing me in the right direction. I guess it needed those pasrts anyway so what the hell.
I totally disassembled the carb. Every single piece, and blew every single passageway and jets out with compressed air and verified that they were unobstructed both visually (with a flashlight shining through the holes) and could feel the air through the holes as well. It was clean as a whistle except for the float chamber. It had dried gas crystal things in the bottom of it. The carb also has a vacuum operated device on it that I don't know what it does but I took it apart as well. It was clean and clear and the diaphram was in good shape.
And now I find out that the order I placed was cancelled because the parts are no longer available. They said they had them, now they say they don't. This is like pulling teeth! I must become a Dentist because I WILL get this thing running one day. Prolly in 5 years and at a cost of 1.2 million dollars, but she's gonna run!
lol Well I'm sorry for your difficulties, but admire your determination. This is part of why I like the GY6 and horizontal minarelli motors, they are common so parts aren't a huge pain... but even with them certain things can be difficult to get.
It really shouldn't be an issue, but just to be certain, might wanna do a compression test. I know you said it was getting redone, but I always check my engines after I build them. Another thing that can make a 2T act weird is a case leak. We've got articles showing how to make a leak tester cheap in the Tech Library.
Also noticed you said the muffler drips oil. If this is out the end, not just a leak at the engine, I assume it smokes heavily? Do your plugs come out oil fouled?
Just searching for other things you can go over while waiting on parts.
Oil drips out of the mufflers end yes, not at the gasket, which is new. It smokes pretty good but I wouldn't say like the foggers did when we were kids. (And used to ride our bikes through! We get, thankfully, older and wiser.) I was thinking about leaning out the mixture but don't want to comprimise lubrication either. Especially with the new piston, etc. Is it a possibility that there is too much oil, therefore not enough gas/air for proper combustion and power?
I just had a look see at the spark plug. It's a little wet in one spot on the bottom of the plug threads but the rest is dry and light brown in color. The gap is good.
I of course used new gaskets and the surfaces were well cleaned when I put the cylinder back in so I wouldn't think it would be leaking from there. I'll do the research on where else the crankcase could be leaking and check those areas too. I appreciate all the good advice!
Well, I just ran down to the local Auto Zone and borrowed a compression tester from them. I threaded it into the head, tightened it down, opened the throttle wide, hit the starter and found I have 90 psi. Is that good?
The bad news is that it takes 25 seconds for the pressure to drop back down to 0 psi's. I'm thinking that's not good. I suppose it's possible for the tester to be leaking but with my luck, and like you said "the age of the vehicle", it's probably leaking somewhere else. Dammit Jim! Hehe. Ahhh shoot, I have nothing better to do anyway. I guess I'll have a look at them seals...
kevin55950: I had a koso Sunworld (low quality) and I needed 2 to make one. Cheaper to buy a good one first
Nov 22, 2013 20:02:03 GMT -5
raelhi: i bought a 150cc 157QMJ engine for 80 bucks, it has compression but the problem is the starter motor housing is cracked, no cvt cover and no shroud
Nov 24, 2013 8:35:38 GMT -5
raelhi: this is the engine: http://honolulu.craigslist.org/oah/mcy/4170079976.html
Nov 24, 2013 9:08:43 GMT -5
raelhi: how do you remove the bushings on the mounting bracket?
Nov 24, 2013 20:40:57 GMT -5
90GTVert: Sometimes you can use a bolt, nut, washer, and socket to remove bushings. Put the bolt through a nut that is small enough to pass through with the bushing, so bushing diameter or just smaller. Put that through the bushing. On the other side, put a socket..
Nov 25, 2013 8:14:47 GMT -5
90GTVert: large enough for the bushing to pass into it, but able to line up with the mount so it has something to be pulled against. Then you'll prob want a washer on the end of the socket nearest the end of the bolt. Then a nut. Tighten and it should pull out.
Nov 25, 2013 8:16:15 GMT -5
90GTVert: Pay close attention as you do it so nothing gets crooked and you don't damage anything. Bolt and nut could actually be on either side, could use a threaded rod and 2 nuts instead of a bolt. As long as it's all braced it can only pull one way.
Nov 25, 2013 8:19:41 GMT -5
twowheelinjim: I've really grown to appreciate these scooters. They respond like a furry pet when given some attention. And, when neglected, they let you know... I've already run into the classic hard starting issues. It is usually caused by a component
Nov 29, 2013 10:25:08 GMT -5
twowheelinjim: like oldsman stated. My 50cc scooter liked the throttle cranked several times allowing the accelerator pump to squirt a bit of fuel into the intake and she started right up. That's how I prime my old Harley. I bet the two bikes were having a chat one night
Nov 29, 2013 10:29:01 GMT -5
twowheelinjim: and that's where the scooter picked up this habit.
Nov 29, 2013 10:29:30 GMT -5
Tony: heyo mech190 the goodyear blimp just droned its way directly over me head... heading over to you !!!
Nov 29, 2013 16:55:35 GMT -5
raelhi: is a gy6 50cc rectifier the same as a 150cc rectifier?
Dec 5, 2013 17:05:12 GMT -5
quikjake: hey can anybody please tell me what bulb size is in my 2007 triton r4?
Dec 6, 2013 3:18:08 GMT -5
quikjake: is it h11? or h7
Dec 6, 2013 3:18:50 GMT -5
90GTVert: My Tritons are both a few years older, but they're BA20D. I assume the newer are the same.
Dec 6, 2013 9:52:17 GMT -5
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