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Post by 90GTVert on May 23, 2019 20:44:20 GMT -5
Stuff like advanced ign timing and some lean areas where that combo makes spark knock doesn't help either. I stay away from those spots though and CHT never gets very high anymore. I mean I'm usually hanging around 250-280 cruising. I think this is going to keep happening over and over again unless something changes with the design as well. I was hoping the gasket/o-ring set from G-Force would do the trick but it's not looking that way.
I'd be open to other setups, but I'm not sure what would meet the criteria. Must have at least this much power. Must be able to stay together through abuse, including not destroying the CVT every 50 miles or something. Has to allow me to charge the battery and run a headlight DC. I guess I could go back to AC headlight if it were a really badass setup that made it worth it, but I really don't want to. A DC headlight and charging system has been very nice to have. It's been discussed here seemingly a million times, but I have no idea what is better than a 100cc kinda sport setup for what I do and in 10 years of the forum and time on others, I haven't really seen anyone else that rides the hell out of a hopped up 2T beyond 70cc sport. iwiketuddlz tried to rock a Polini Big Evo 94cc as a daily, but that looked like a miserable experience for him. He blew apart his stock flywheel and I think that's about where it ended, but it didn't look like it was going to be a great success even if he had a good iggy. I think he was on at least his 2nd cylinder kit in a short time before he called it quits and racing parts are expensive.
TPR 86cc and Athena 80cca re the ones that I recall being discussed. Part of me says just go back to AC with a similar build, but the LC does seem to be stronger and it's consistently strong all day (great for me) till the head gasket goes.
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Post by repherence2 on May 23, 2019 20:54:34 GMT -5
did you install the G-Force gasket/o-ring with sealant?
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Post by ryan_ott on May 23, 2019 21:03:00 GMT -5
Maybe it’s worth reaching out to G-powersports and see if the continued blown head gaskets are something they see on the quads regularly.
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Post by 90GTVert on May 23, 2019 21:06:38 GMT -5
did you install the G-Force gasket/o-ring with sealant? I did. That's another option to go with no sealant or copper spray as OG suggested. I still find it hard to believe that gaskets that are broken in multiple spots will hold up fine then, but I guess you never know.
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Post by oldgeek on May 23, 2019 21:07:14 GMT -5
3D printed graphite head gasket?
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Post by 90GTVert on May 23, 2019 21:20:00 GMT -5
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Post by oldgeek on May 23, 2019 21:39:38 GMT -5
Looking at some other LC kits for the DIO, there is no O ring. Looks like flat gaskets only. As 190mech mentioned, that O ring is mighty close to the combustion chamber on your cylinder. I think they would have been better off not cutting the groove.
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Post by 190mech on May 24, 2019 0:47:18 GMT -5
A tour on Ebay looking at MX 80-125 LC jugs shows most use the cylinder as the grooved surface with std type o-rings...some used head gaskets with fire rings also..cyl seals run cooler than head seals,what about reconfiguring the head to a different design,either facing it back and fitting a soft alu or copper gasket or welding up the o-ring grooves and facing for a different sealing method?Dont you have a spare head?Just throwing thought out here.maybe we can find a solution!
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Post by Lucass2T on May 24, 2019 5:53:54 GMT -5
Adapt the stock head to accept inserts and make your own combustion chamber?
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Post by Lucass2T on May 24, 2019 5:58:40 GMT -5
2fast4race carries 52mm heads with a blind insert. VHM also sells minarelli cylinderheads or at least inserts.
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Post by 90GTVert on May 24, 2019 9:56:59 GMT -5
reconfiguring the head to a different design,either facing it back and fitting a soft alu or copper gasket This seemed like the best idea for me to try. I do have an old head that got beat up with engine failures. The area between the o-ring and the combustion chamber is basically 1mm BTW. Not much. So I tried chucking that up in the lathe, but clearly I don't know what I'm doing. I'm pretty sure the threads are cut at a slight angle in the head. I've got a range from near 0.060" out of square down to a best of 0.034" after screwing around with it, tapping, rotating, trying to shim. I messed with that for so long and then did a quick search online. Couldn't really find what I was looking for. I made a tool that I've wanted to make for a while though. I figured maybe it would help to some degree here, but at least it would give me a break from what I was doing. It didn't really do much for me in this case, but I have had scenarios on the lathe where it would help me out and it was done with stuff I had around. 3/8" square stock, 5mm nuts and bolt, aluminum bar, and bearings that I had maybe from a balancer project or something. Messed with it some more and still couldn't get better than 0.034" off. I chucked up an air cooled head just to see where I stand. I couldn't get that one right, but I could at least take it down from about 0.030" if randomly chucked to as low as 0.008" off. I haven't checked my chuck today, but in the past I think it was within 0.002", either way it's not 0.034" off. Someone that knows what they're doing may be able to do this in 5 minutes, but I sure can't. I think I have messed with it for about 2.5 hours going back and forth between awfully far out and horrendous. I'm gonna get out the book that John sent me about machine shop methods and see if it tells me anything useful. Prob has the info in there, but whether it sinks into my skull is another story. If, by some miracle, I were to get that close enough; then I guess I'd have to figure out what gasket (material) thicknesses are available and exactly what needs to be machined off because I cant just do as I please with it since there are 2 sealing areas. One for the combustion chamber and one for the outside world. I assume some small about of additional height would be required in the center so it could compress when torqued and then match up properly so the outer o-ring compresses as it should. This is the sorta stuff that made me skeptical about going LC in the first place, because you can do what you want with head gasket thickness when AC basically.
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Post by repherence2 on May 24, 2019 10:44:16 GMT -5
for precision cutting on an existing part like that, you need a 4 jaw chuck to dial it in to 0.000" Total Indicator Run out. super hard to align a piece like that on a 3 jaw chuck because of how the 3 jaw clamps via the spiral gear inside the chuck. a collet chuck might work. the machinist that taught me at work always stressed that the 3 jaw is for 1 time clamping. basically once you clamp the raw/bar stock in a 3 jaw, you rough out, final cut, and part it off with out ever rechucking. he taught me that if you ever had to unchuck a piece that you started on a 3 jaw, you always machine a reference surface somewhere on the O.D. before you remove it. further machining or modifications would have to be done on a 4 jaw chuck after that.
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Post by 90GTVert on May 24, 2019 11:44:13 GMT -5
I haven't even got to seeing if it's centered/concentric. I was trying to see if I could get it to be square. Maybe that's the wrong term, but indicating on the surface that I want to cut of the head from a magnetic base on the carriage. So in the last pic of my previous post imagine that bearing tool that I made was an indicator and that's where it's out. I have 0.034" at the best I can do between the high and low spots that way. I still don't really see anything about what I'm talking about. My best guess ATM would be that it would have to be rigged up to the face plate somehow. I've never even had the chuck off of this lathe to know what it's got back there, but I have a feeling that's a real fun job trying to get something like this square and centered.
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Post by 190mech on May 24, 2019 11:47:06 GMT -5
I agree,a 4 jaw would make it true,sometimes I will randomly add a shim(paper or pop can) between one jaw of a 3jaw then check the run out,with time it can be made to run true..Ive had many that the plug hole is just drilled crooked!I wouldnt cut the outside o-ring area,just the chamber seal area,then fab an aluminum spacer to make up the difference..
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Post by 90GTVert on May 24, 2019 11:51:41 GMT -5
I'm lost. I don't understand how an adjustable chuck would make it square unless there is adjustment in more than one axis. I could get how it would center it. I tried a shim moved around in the jaws which in my mind is a similar idea to an individually adjustable chuck, but I couldn't get anywhere that way. Maybe someday I'll figure this lathe out. EDIT : This is what I can't get. I'm sure it's not centered either, but this is where I'm stuck ATM because it's wonky this way instead of being at 90 degrees. If an adjustable chuck fixes that too, please pardon my ignorance. I was looking at 5" chucks so maybe I could hold the head in the chuck directly, but it wouldn't work anyway because the barb for the hose connection is too tall and would run into the face of the chuck.
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