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Post by Fox on Nov 7, 2012 9:44:34 GMT -5
It's actually called a TACHOMETER. Some scooters don't have one so you just gotta do it by ear. If the rear wheel is turning at idle then it's set too high. The mixture screw MUST be set right before you can fine tune the idle speed. Some carbs have a sealed mixture screw. You can drill the seal out and remove it usually.
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Post by veejay on Nov 7, 2012 11:17:29 GMT -5
You don't have to take the seat off to adjust the idle. There's a small lid inside the seat compartment with one screw. Unscrew the screw and lift the lid and you'll have access to your carbuerator. You'll see the brass idle screw. If you're going to do it, just turn it a hair at a time to get it where you want it. From what I gather you'll want it lower in the summer, higher in the winter. I have mine set at 1900 right now; may lower it a tad.
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Post by prodigit on Nov 7, 2012 19:58:23 GMT -5
You basically should put it the lowest possible, before stalling, on a cold engine. If the scoot is cold, lower the screw, and try to start it. If it starts fine, lower it again. If it starts with little hesitation, a bit more difficult to start, it's set correctly. If it is very difficult to start, or takes a long time, adjust the screw to higher RPM's.
When the engine is hot, it will idle higher than when it's cold. Just as long as it does not stall, don't make it run higher.
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bbold
Scoot Member
Posts: 62
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Post by bbold on Nov 8, 2012 8:43:26 GMT -5
Yeah, my scooter doesn't have one, that's why I was confused I guess. I've seen them on other scooters, though.
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Post by Fox on Nov 8, 2012 15:47:05 GMT -5
You basically should put it the lowest possible, before stalling, on a cold engine. If the scoot is cold, lower the screw, and try to start it. If it starts fine, lower it again. If it starts with little hesitation, a bit more difficult to start, it's set correctly. If it is very difficult to start, or takes a long time, adjust the screw to higher RPM's. When the engine is hot, it will idle higher than when it's cold. Just as long as it does not stall, don't make it run higher. ^^^ That makes no sense at all ^^^ You always adjust the idle screw(s) with the engine hot. If you try to do it cold you are never gonna get it right. You want to adjust it to a speed that is lower than the speed that the rear wheel starts to spin cause if it pulls at idle then you will fry the clutch when stopped at red lights.
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Post by prodigit on Nov 9, 2012 2:35:39 GMT -5
You basically should put it the lowest possible, before stalling, on a cold engine. If the scoot is cold, lower the screw, and try to start it. If it starts fine, lower it again. If it starts with little hesitation, a bit more difficult to start, it's set correctly. If it is very difficult to start, or takes a long time, adjust the screw to higher RPM's. When the engine is hot, it will idle higher than when it's cold. Just as long as it does not stall, don't make it run higher. ^^^ That makes no sense at all ^^^ You always[i/] adjust the idle screw(s) with the engine hot. If you try to do it cold you are never gonna get it right. You want to adjust it to a speed that is lower than the speed that the rear wheel starts to spin cause if it pulls at idle then you will fry the clutch when stopped at red lights. ^^^ That makes no sense at all ^^^ When you adjust the idle when the engine is hot, it will stall when the engine is cold. When the engine is cold, is the time to adjust the scooter's lowest idle. On my tao, I could let it sputter in idle ~700RPM, but it barely kept itself alive at that speed, plus, the head and tail lights where very dim. 1100RPM is a good idle. By default the TaoTao ATM50-A1 I got, was idling at 2k RPM. The clutch will not fry when idling too high, however your belt might wear out if it's set to a too high speed. Most chinese scoots don't have a clutch. The 'clutch' like on a car, would be the variator and belt that would experience wear.
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Post by 90GTVert on Nov 9, 2012 6:13:26 GMT -5
You want to tune the mixture settings with a warm engine, but I can see both sides on the idle speed. Setting it like prodigit should give you a low idle that's not gonna leave you babysitting your scoot while it warms up all of the time. Setting it so it idles higher is better for battery charging or operating accessories and keeping the headlights from dimming as bad and of course it's not too likely to stall if it's revving higher. Lower idles make less noise and should burn less fuel and may run cooler at idle. I wouldn't worry too much about CVT parts unless you're really getting carried away with the high idle. No matter how you choose to set it initially, check the operation warm and cold before putting your tools away.
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Post by Fox on Nov 9, 2012 7:19:31 GMT -5
Well, I don't see it. If everything is working properly a cold engine will fast idle, wheel spinning for a minute and then slow down some once the enricher kicks in and leans out the mixture. Once that happens, the engine is nether cold or hot. It's in-between so trying to adjust the idle at that point is IMO pointless. Personally I could care less how they act cold. It's how they run when they have been running for 15 minutes that matters most to me.
You know what, I'm not going to pursue this any further. I would never try to dial in the idle on a cold/lukewarm engine but if it works for you then more power to you.
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Post by prodigit on Nov 10, 2012 2:09:54 GMT -5
My auto enricher stops after like 5 to 10 seconds. The engine is still cold then. I don't have to wait 15 minutes, because after 15 minutes the engine is hot. Most of the time, the clutch enables when the RPM's are above 2k rpm, so there's quite some play. Even at 2,5k rpm, a 5-10 second friction wouldn't cause much wear. Usually when accelerating to 3 or 4k RPM, that's when the clutch really engages, and wear on the belt could be possible, if you hold the bike stationary; however if you want to be absolutely sure, that the first few seconds your belt won't wear out, then start it on the center stand, and let the rear wheel freely wheel around!
When you set the idle to work fine when the engine is hot, then it will stall right after the auto enricher stops enriching the mixture (right after a cold start), so your bike may start, but in the first 5-10 minutes, your bike may stall on a red light. I raised my RPM by ~100 RPMs more to 1200, as 1100 was still a bit too low now that the cold winternights are here. Some bikes may idle better at 1400rpm, however, I live in a warm environment, so I can afford lowering the idle a bit more.
I never let my scoot idle when the rear wheel is rotating. I let it idle at the lowest idle possible, and then tune it up, until the headlights are bright enough, but still well below the 1900RPM that they recommend for 50cc scoots!
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Post by Fox on Nov 10, 2012 2:42:11 GMT -5
I've been making money repairing these things for the past 7 years and all I can say is you are way off dude. The idle is set with a hot engine. I get very few call-backs due to an idle issue. I wrote up this guide back in 2008 and I've had many, many people tell me thank you because it worked for them. www.scooterforumonline.com/index.php/topic,1603.msg7405.html#msg7405 I think you just like to cause controversy. I've seen your posts on other forums and there is usually some conflict involved. There's things that work and there's things you think of. You might wanna take advise and stop re-thinking stuff that guys before you already figured out.
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Post by prodigit on Nov 10, 2012 2:57:27 GMT -5
And tell me why would you get so offended, just because it makes more sense adjusting idle on a cold engine, than on a hot one?
I've read some manual, posted on the dawg forum, however, I question if it's really necessary to set idle nearly to 2k rpm. If you care to explain why you adjust it on a hot engine (on a hot engine idle will be higher than on a cold engine), and your reasoning makes more sense, then I'll do it on a hot engine. However, the way I see it, it makes more sense to adjust idle on a cold engine, in cold weather. THat way you'll know if the bike will bog down or not. The way I see it, if it works fine on cold, it'll work fine on a hot engine as well. On a hot engine it'll run higher, but never 500+rpms higher (where it would engage the clutch).
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bbold
Scoot Member
Posts: 62
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Post by bbold on Nov 11, 2012 0:32:44 GMT -5
Since my scooter doesn't have a speedometer, how can I tell the idle is right?
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Post by 90GTVert on Nov 11, 2012 7:45:58 GMT -5
If it doesn't die out and it doesn't spin the wheel quickly at idle, then it should be about right. I don't really see where idle setting is as complicated as it's sounding here. Your engine will start out cold and heat up within a few minutes. I just sit by the scoot with a screwdriver handy and watch the whole transition before I call it done and put body panels back on. Simple answer is just as long as it does not stall out and as long as it is not trying to take off on it's own, it's fine.
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bbold
Scoot Member
Posts: 62
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Post by bbold on Nov 11, 2012 21:47:29 GMT -5
Coolio. I did it. It just needed a tiny adjustment, now after the idle adjustment, and with a brand new NGK spark plug, my scooter runs even better than it did brand new.
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Post by Fox on Nov 11, 2012 22:25:15 GMT -5
Coolio. I did it. It just needed a tiny adjustment, now after the idle adjustment, and with a brand new NGK spark plug, my scooter runs even better than it did brand new. Did you use the cold or the hot method?
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