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Post by aaroninjax on Apr 20, 2013 19:20:05 GMT -5
Well, crap. I spoke too soon. This morning when she fired up I only had her running for less than a minute. I could throttle her and she roared and I was really happy. I shut her off because I had a bunch of errands to run. When I got home I went to start, and although she starts like a champ, then stalls after she's warmed up. Starts back, then stalls after 7-10 seconds. When I increase the throttle, she doesn't respond, but quickly stalls after anyway. Could this be a problem with the autochoke?
Last night when I was putting the carb back on, but before I put on the air filter box, I noticed a small drip coming out of one of the ports that would drain into the air filter box. I imagine that isn't supposed to happen. What's that all about and how do I stop it?
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Post by 90GTVert on Apr 20, 2013 19:28:58 GMT -5
You can check your enricher to see if it works properly. Easy way is to pull it cold and measure, then install. Warm the engine up for 5 minutes and then shut it off. Remove the enricher immediately and measure. You should see that it is extended after warmed up. www.youtube.com/watch?v=O2qRVOkfdaY |
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Post by aaroninjax on Apr 20, 2013 22:14:54 GMT -5
After letting her cool down, I tested the autochoke. It works perfectly. So, that's part of my problem. I can open her throttle, and do whatever I want to her before she warms up. As soon as the autochoke plunges the needle, it stalls. In fact, taking the autochoke out completely after she's warm, she doesn't stall. I'm getting closer, but not there yet.
Next, the filter was dripping gas from the night before. I pulled the vacuum line and the gas line and sucked on the vacuum line. Gas came out. I think there might have been something that made that check valve stick slightly open. Anyways, I think I have that one fixed.
So, do I play with the needles? God, I hope not.
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Post by aaroninjax on Apr 20, 2013 23:28:17 GMT -5
I watched your carb 4 part series. That was really helpful. My carb only has one adjustment screw, which I would assume is for idle speed. Do not all carbs have a richness screw?
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Post by 90GTVert on Apr 21, 2013 5:47:47 GMT -5
I think some older Yamaha scoots didn't have a mixture screw on the carb. If it dies when the additional fuel is shut off, it's lean. Sure the pilot jet isn't clogged? Did you use compressed air and carb cleaner in all passages?
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Post by aaroninjax on Apr 21, 2013 8:21:00 GMT -5
Main jet isnt blocked. I twisted it out and all the others (jets) and could see daylight in all the holes. I think it just needs some adjusting.
Also, the gas leak out the front of the carb is gone,but now slowly drips from the bottom hose of the carb. At a rate of a drop maybe 10 or 20 seconds. Thanks for your time.
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Post by 90GTVert on Apr 21, 2013 11:01:36 GMT -5
Does it die no matter how much throttle? The carb really shouldn't need an adjustment so suddenly. That's what makes me think you have something wrong, not just out of adjustment. Some things can go wrong in an instant, but carburetor adjustment/jet size isn't normally one of them, at least not so much that it goes from running OK to can't even move.
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Post by aaroninjax on Apr 21, 2013 21:15:59 GMT -5
Yeah, that's exactly what I was thinking. Odd. This all started because i changed the back tire.I didn't touch anything except the exhaust pipe. Oh, and I adjusted the brake cable. This is so frustrating.
Because I am new to this world of scoot, and because no one in town stocks my parts, will any airbox work or should i stick to oem until i figure it out?
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Post by 90GTVert on Apr 22, 2013 5:57:34 GMT -5
You could prob use an airbox from another Yamaha Vino or Zuma 50 2T or a Chinese minarelli, but some airboxes will flow a little different. I wouldn't do that unless you really think the airbox is sucking in more air than it should be from the lack of an o-ring. Even then, you may be able to find another way to seal it. I'd say RTV could work, but you will have a lot of clean up to do if you take the airbox apart later using a sealant. Thin piece of rubber to make a gasket may work. It may not be leaking now, hard to know.
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Post by aaroninjax on Apr 22, 2013 21:10:13 GMT -5
Im at a standstill until parts get here. Will update in a few days.
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Post by aaroninjax on Apr 24, 2013 20:17:52 GMT -5
Parts came today. Replaced 3 o rings in the carb and enricher. The air box gasket came in wrong and I had to reorder that. I the meantime, I just ducttaped it completely. So here is what's going on. My carb does in fact have a mixture screw. The idle speed screw is connected to the throttle assemble that goes on top of the carb. I was confused by that. Anyway, the same thing happened today. It would stall after the enricher activated. I adjusted both screws and she started running perfectly. I let her cool down and started up again. This time the idle speed was still adjusted as if it were warm, so the idle speed was WAY too high. I backed it off a bit and again she runs smooth again. I'm afraid this might be a vicious cycle of having to adjust it back and forth. Until I get it just right. I think I have my mixture screw tightened down most of the way, and before this all happened the setting was roughly 2 full turns counter clockwise. I am thinking I'm still missing the cause of why this happened, but for now, I'm keeping my fingers crossed that I'll just be able to fine tune the carb. If you have any experience with this and could give me some pointers, I'd appreciate it.
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Post by 90GTVert on Apr 24, 2013 21:22:19 GMT -5
I would adjust it for best running warm. Unless you are only making very quick trips, you'll spend the majority of your time with a warm engine. Find the best compromise you can on the RPM.
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Post by aaroninjax on Apr 26, 2013 8:20:09 GMT -5
I think I have her dialed in pretty well now. Last night I could go 3/4 of a mile at full throttle and she would bogg down a little only on full throttle and stall at stop signs. I was pretty low, but not empty on gas. Then I filled her completely up again and have ridden once more since with no problems or stalling. I can feel I'm almost there, maybe just a minor tweak again.
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Post by aaroninjax on Apr 28, 2013 23:13:04 GMT -5
She's running near perfect now. Thanks for all your help. I was about to give up and take it to a repair shop.
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Post by machv5 on Nov 3, 2018 19:09:01 GMT -5
Ok, I got the carb all apart and blasted to perfection with carb cleaner. Got it back together and nothing. It turns over but it doesn't start up. I'm on my way to get starter fluid as I ran out just as I needed it. I'm hoping that's the problem now. I'm optimistically hopeful. I know that this is an older thread however when I just read this post I had to put in something. With a two stroke that is using oil mixed in with the fuel you should never use starting fluid. It will clean off all the oil and you could mess up your engine either reducing compression from a soft seize or totally by blowing a piston ring or seizing the motor up requiring an engine rebuild, new piston rings, cylinder, etc... Just don't do it. Use a syringe and suck up some premixed gas and oil and squirt that into the cylinder by way of the spark plug hole. |
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