MODIFICATIONS::::::::
Removed the useless, heavy, and hideous front bumper
Mounted a WALD 582 folding basket in place of the front bumper. Added another #582 basket to each side alongside the seat. Each basket will hold a cloth shopping bag. The baskets fold down flat when not in use.
Moved helmet lock assy to luggage rack bolt to clear space for side baskets.
Did not install the 'free' (micro)trunk provided. It was not even big enough to hold my helmet.
Removed 'snorkel' on air filter assy to make room for a folding grocery basket. Used the snorkel end muffler cap directly on the air filter housing.
Removed valve cover vent from snorkel and re-routed to filtered side of air filter. This will result in more oil deposits on the carb. Added a 1/8" dia orifice to cut flow due to higher vacuum after filter.
Removed buzzer module and bypassed unit with jumper wire. This lights the warning light continuously instead of flashing opposite the 'backup alarm' noise when the front suspension tilt-lock is activated.
Mounted a replacement CDI unit under seat on a shelf made from 1/4" Lexan.
Used a 6" CDI connector pigtail cut from main wiring harness to connect the CDI unit at it's new location.
Mounted spare CDI next to main CDI to enable a quick switch. The connector is covered with blue painters tape to keep dirt out.
Unplugged the speed limiter circuit for the locked suspension. IN or OUT has no effect on no-start problem.
Finally REMOVED the speed limiter circuit. Wired AC power from the magneto directly to the CDI unit.
Found that the KILL switch was actually a RUN switch that interrupted the connection between the pickup coil signal and the CDI module. This is a very bad idea since the switch is a common 12-48VDC type switch. It does not have the proper characteristics to be switching millivolt type signals. That usually calls for gold crossbar type bifurcated wiping contacts not a copper and brass slide/snap switch that was heavily oxidized and required cleaning. Therefore I wired the timing signal from the magneto directly to the CDI module and rewired the RUN switch into a KILL switch in parallel with the ignition switch. The KILL wire from the CDI module just needs to be grounded to stop the spark. An added benefit is that the pod switch is now up for ON and down for OFF. I removed the graphic switch symbols with Goof-Off solvent. The timing signal should not be running all around the bike where it can be interfered with. I wired the kill switch into a twisted pair cable with the ground conductor passing back to the CDI module. I have OEM wiring harness connectors from Ebay now.
Added 5/16" spacer under the seat at right rear to correct support height frame defect.
Drilled out defective tapped holes in engine cover brace to 3/8" and installed body clip-bolts into holes. The strap brace was hard metal that had destroyed the taps the factory used.
Painted silver steering box parts black.
Painted front suspension lock cable mechanism black. I need to find a cover or fabricate one.
Repaired gasoline leak at tank sender by sealing underside of gasket ring with Permatex aviation gasket sealer.
Removed the screws that fasten the cover to the floor pan and cut front lip on engine cover off for ease of access. The entire engine cover comes off with four 8mm bolts.
Left out screws from front of belly pan into floor pan. The floor pan can now be removed with four 8mm bolts. When reinstalling install the rear bolts first. Drill front holes larger or reposition mounts at some future date. -Done, drilled out the tank mounting holes with a step bit.
Importer's technicians said gas tank cap is vented type. Could have plugged fuel tank vent hose barb but instead vented it through a hose to exclude water etc. Found out cap is NOT vented.
Added protective sleeves to fuel lines near tank.
Moved voltage regulator to under side of ignition switch to make room for mounting flasher where it belongs and use old V-Reg mount for a system ground point. Move the main ground terminal from the inaccessible point in front of the bike under the front battery box cover to the back of the steering tube where it is accessible.
Slipped the positive battery connections inside protective sleeve.
The ground conductor running through the bike has a lot of voltage drop in it since it is a tiny 20AWG wire. The rear ground terminal was not even connected. The main starter power current runs through the frame. I ran a long 12AWG wire to the engine ground strap bolt from the main ground terminal. The main DC electrical system ground wire to the battery is more than pathetic, and so is the headlight and lighting ground... The headlights may be DC or AC powered. All the power coming from the magneto is AC to the regulator/rectifier module. The whole electrical system and wiring harness seems to be a Kluge that kind of works most of the time.
Separate auto choke wiring so that the wire can be unplugged from the main harness. This facilitates carb removal.
Moved entire wiring harness rearwards 2-3 inches to make all mid-chassis electrical connections accessible by removing the engine cover only. There are now no connections under the floor pan.
Added a split 1" PVC DWV tube wire guide to the handlebar wiring. Cables and wires were already showing abrasion wear from handlebar movement.
Added a 14AWG battery power access connector under the battery box for charging and jumping. Made a set of lightweight 14AWG jumper cables.
Hinged the lower battery box cover with zip-tie 'hinges' to facilitate maintenance.
Add 10A fused automotive power outlet to battery box below the battery. Bought an electronic system voltage monitor to plug into the power outlet.
Added amber LED strobe lights front and rear to improve visibility on the 'bicycle'. Mounted the controller on top of the battery box. Later the control was moved and mounted between the handlebar riser blocks.
Moved the speedometer cable from the tubing loop on the muffler bracket it was in to above the muffler bracket mount bolt so that I had better access and visibility for the oil drain/filter plug.
Replaced OEM 18/18W halogen headlight fixtures and #194 marker bulbs with 27W white LED spotlights
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007ZGBLNW/ and new white LED marker fixtures. Removed the plastic grill over the front lights. This should cut down on the amount of light escaping rearward from the main headlight fixtures and reflecting back towards me helping night vision. One 'front' spotlight is turned on under the DIM switch setting and both are turned on for BRIGHT. The charging system still shows a good charge voltage with all 'headlights' ON.
Replaced the #1157 stop and tail light bulb with a red LED unit. The heat from the stop lamp was already distorting the stoplight lens. The SMD-LED bulbs from an Amazon seller did not work correctly with a LED third brake light. They bleed current from the tail light circuit into the stop circuit causing the LED third (second) brake light to glow all the time. Some LED super bright 1157R bulbs from Oreilley $$$$ worked correctly and were brighter than the SMD units.
Added 1-1/8" riser blocks to the handlebars to get them off my knees.
Added a plastic skirt to the seat mount for increased storage space.
Mounted a garage door remote hanger to the battery box with velcro where the strobe light control was.
Replaced two lower outside front grease zerks with 90° zerk fittings for access.
Modified the twist grip throttle by cutting the handgrip and throttle tube off about 3/4" from the control pod. I fabricated an aluminum thumb lever and attached it to the stubby throttle tube. The rest of the throttle tube and hand grip was glued onto the handlebar so that the grips kind of match. Now only the grip section next to the control pod rotates for the 'thumb' throttle.
Removed the large Hazard Warning switch button and trimmed off the metal lever. I covered the end of the lever with an orange plastic cap. This allows free operation of the thumb throttle while wearing gloves.
Added a tachometer and hour meter. The hour meter works but the tach may have issues. The tach is now programmed correctly but is slow to update. A Trail Tech tach was added later and updates fairly rapidly at the default settings. The tachs agree fairly closely.
Blocked off the auto-enricher with some gasket material. Seems to start perfectly without enrichment as long as it is not under 25°F. The 50cc engine is balky at first when temperatures are below 25°F.
Added a black plastic folding crate to the rear luggage rack.
Fabricated a chain and lock for a HD plastic tote with lid that sits on top of the folding crate. Now I can go shopping at more than one place and semi-secure my purchases. A person could still get to them if they wanted to or just steal the whole scoot. Locks only keep honest people out. I try to park right up front at a store.
Made actual vents for my fake vents on the Ebay TMS brand modular full face helmet. This reduces fogging in cold weather.
Installed a marine type primer bulb to prime the fuel system for better starts after the scoot has been sitting for several days. A few squeezes should prime the fuel system that has a tendency to drain back into the fuel tank over time. The marine type primer bulb did not work as planned. The vacuum powered OEM pump blew the check valves out of it. I replaced it with an EMPI 12V electric solenoid pump hot wired through a fuse and switch to the red power lead at the starter. I did not want to overload the ignition switch. I have to remember to turn it OFF after I use it but it is only used for priming the system and as a backup. I also reconfigured the fuel line from the tank to use an inline filter and tucked the filter up in the belly pan under the fuel tank. I temporarily connected the electric pump to flush out the fuel tank and lines. Another filter is used to double clean the output of both pumps before it flows into the carb. The ON-OFF pump toggle switch is opposite the ATV primer bulb. The EMPI pump setup is working well so far. The check valves in the EMPI pump are robust. I routed the fuel line to the final filter upwards to keep some fuel from draining back out of the filter and away from the carb.
I have added a small ATV primer bulb like many found on lawn equipment small engines. A few squirts from the ATV primer bulb should take care of cold weather starts. All the soft Chinese emissions tubing that was used for fuel lines has been replaced by 3/16" SAE J30 R6 fuel hose or clear urethane fuel line. This will allow me to see the fuel in the lines.
The PAIR tube was removed and port blocked to make extra room for fuel lines. The vacuum powered fuel pump was repositioned slightly to improve access and fuel line routing. The PAIR flange was removed from the valve cover which freed up space to mount the EMPI pump back-to-back with the OEM pump. The mounting flanges were drilled out to take an 8mm bolt. The OEM 6mm 'fake 8.8' Chinese bolt was far too wimpy. The pump still rotated during hard braking and kinked the vacuum line. The vacuum line was reconnected with a 90° elbow to avoid kinks.
Checked the exhaust pipe and port for restrictions but only found a catalytic converter inside the pipe. Placed a home made 25mm exhaust port gasket on the exhaust port since the OEM installation was missing a gasket.
Removed the restrictive rubber tube inside the stock airbox and drilled three 3/4" holes in the airbox cover to reduce restrictions further. -FAIL!!!! Restrictions replaced/plugged until new jets acquired. I am looking for an externally adjustable carburetor to help with my tremor problem.
I installed a new license plate that reads 'MOTORIZED TRICYCLE' in a license plate frame that reads 'NUCLEAR POWERED'. The first person that read the plate fell for the nuke powered thing..... The Chinese license plates are smaller than the US plates so the attachment slots in the bracket had to be lengthened by about 1/8" on both ends. 1/4-20 clip nuts were used with SS screws to attach the plate and frame to the bracket.
A new 24 LED 'third brake' light bar has been installed under the rear tote on the luggage support frame to act as an additional brake light. The front white lights are really bright and good at night as long as there is no oncoming traffic. There is no focused beam to illuminate the edge of the road when a vehicle approaches. A single 'Harley Davidson' type headlamp is being installed for night riding with a selector switch.
An exhaust tip was added to the muffler with some 1/4" hardware cloth rolled inside to further reduce noise emissions. The catalytic converter did a lot of the muffling in the OEM installation. -Thanks Upgrayedd!
The OEM engine valve cover to frame ground strap failed. It is stranded wire but stiff. One spot looks kinked and when opened showed a few broken strands. The other still unbroken strands may be failing. I made a new primary ground strap from three fine strand silicone insulated 14AWG wires braided together. The wire is extremely flexible and is used for battery leads in electric RC vehicles. The ends were crimped together into 1/4" lugs, soldered, and covered with shrink wrap. The wire is arranged and secured so that there is no flexure near the connectors. The OEM frame ground bolt was replaced with a longer bolt from underneath to form a stud type arrangement with a nut to hold all the ring terminal lugs. A secondary 12AWG ground wire of standard stranded wire was added from a bolt near the engine fan.
When the scoot has been sitting a few days a squeeze or two should prime the fuel system. 
