Cold Weather Riding Help : Gear & Info To Keep You Warm

[90GTVert]

Cold Weather Riding Help
Gear And Info To Keep You Warm

Anyone that has ridden in cold temps is probably aware that standard riding gear just won't cut it. Your cool weather gear may work for a quick trip in the neighborhood, but if you plan to ride for extended time/distance when it's really cold you'll need to gear up to stay warm. If you aren't warm, you aren't safe. I'm not just talking about the obvious things like frozen extremities that ache or go numb. Some studies have shown that as the body's core temperature drops, reaction and movement times increase. I can tell you from personal experience that my ability to react and maneuver suffers noticeably over time in frigid temps and it is not a pleasant feeling. Threats presented by distracted drivers, animals or objects in the roadway, and so on are dangerous enough when we're on top of our game. All of these things, and of course comfort, are excellent reasons to put some effort into staying warm on your scooter.


Clothing

The first thing we always hear about is dressing in layers. This means not only using multiple layers of clothing, but using layers of clothing that serve different purposes. The three types of layers are wicking, insulating, and shell. This is not to say that you can only use 3 total layers, but those are the basic purposes that layers should serve.

Wicking : A wicking layer is the base that draws moisture away from your skin and out into other layers of clothing/air. Evaporating moisture has a cooling effect, so you don't want sweat hanging around on your skin. The wicking layer should be form fitting, snug against your skin, so that it can draw moisture directly away from you instead of allowing it to react with air as loose clothing would. Wicking isn't only about the fit of the garment, but also the material. 100% cotton garments are not a good option here, as they are more absorbent and slower drying so they keep moisture near you. Polyester and polyester blends or wool are better choices for base layers because they do a better job of transferring moisture and dry more quickly.

I find that when I gear up properly for the conditions, especially since I ride a lot at night without the sun's heat, I am not likely to sweat much. I don't spend a lot of money on fancy base layers. I wear long johns/thermal underwear that you can find for $15-20 for a whole set or $7-10 for an individual top or bottom. They're largely made of cotton with 25-30% polyester, but they work well for me. In very cold weather or for long rides I often wear two pairs to create a thick base layer. If you are more active or more likely to sweat it may be worth spending a little more on specialty base layers.

Insulating : (Also called the thermal or mid layer.) This is what we most often think of for warmth. The insulating layer keeps your body heat in. Shirts, sweaters, flannels, jackets, are all part of this layer. The options are almost endless here. A flannel button up shirt is one of my favorite things to add in the thermal layer. I can take it on or off pretty easily, as opposed to a pull over, and it doesn't take up a lot of space under the seat. Within 2 minutes I can add or remove it to fine tune my layering. It doesn't have to be a flannel, but I highly suggest finding a similar garment to aid in regulating your temp. If you'll be riding through varying conditions consider a couple of items that can be easily swapped on or off and stored as needed.

Shell : (Also known as the windbreaking or isolation layer.) This is the outermost layer that aims to separate you and the rest of your clothing from the elements, like you're in a shell. We've all seen the wind chill factors that weather forecasters like to throw around on cold days. Imagine those factors when you're riding at sustained speeds of 30, 40, or 50MPH. In fact, you don't have to imagine them. CLICK HERE for a link to a wind chill chart from the National Weather Service. A quick look at that illustrates the importance of keeping the wind out. Shell layers should be wind and waterproof. Leather and textile jackets may do an acceptable job, but rain gear is an excellent choice for an outer shell.

One take on a shell layer that is useful for cold weather commuting is to use a very thick outer layer and forgo most of the rest. This take is not as effective as the "proper" layers, but it makes the transition from comfortable riding to comfortable working, school, etc... much quicker. Dickies insulated coveralls range from about $50-100. Carhartt overalls get great reviews, but average prices seem to be about double that of the Dickies gear. Ski gear is another great option for a thick outer shell. You can get ski pants, jackets, and coveralls with a wide range of price points. While these types of thick shells work pretty well on their own over regular clothes, they are excellent when paired with wicking and thermal layers underneath.

Tip : Avoid starting out cold. Store your riding gear inside where it's warm or put it in the dryer for a few minutes just before you get dressed to ride. *Always check the tags to verify that it is safe to dry each garment before putting them in the dryer.*

Head And Neck

 I recommend a full face motorcycle helmet for year-round riding, but I strongly suggest a full face helmet for cold weather. Look for a helmet with good venting, preferably adjustable, around the nose/mouth especially. Helmets with a nose piece that helps to keep your breath away from the face shield are desirable for cold riding. These features help reduce or eliminate fogging of the visor. If you can keep the visor clear when closed it goes a long way to keeping your head and face warm. Different makes and models of helmets have different opening and closing characteristics. I find that a helmet which allows me to barely crack the face shield open lets me defrost the shield if necessary without letting in lots of air and freezing my whole face. If you opt to skip the full face helmet, a 3/4 helmet with a large face shield would be the next best thing.

Tip : It is best to try on helmets before buying. Proper fit is important for comfort and safety. You'll find that not only size, but also brand matters for fit. Even if you buy online to get a lower price I suggest trying to find the helmet you're interested in locally to see how it fits before making a purchase. CLICK HERE for info on fit and more details about motorcycle helmets from the Motorcycle Safety Foundation.

If you find that your head or face are still cold, adding a balaclava or ski mask under the helmet should help. An added benefit of those items is that they may also cover your neck. If your head and face are comfortable but your neck is cold you can use a scarf or neck warmer. There are neck warmers that look like a turtleneck with most of the shirt cut away, leaving just enough material around it to tuck into your shirt or jacket to better seal in warmth.


Hands And Feet

Hands and feet, especially fingers and toes, are the toughest parts to keep warm. The extremities suffer from less blood circulation in frigid temps. Blood vessels in extremities are constricted when it's cold to help keep your core and vital organs warmer by reducing heat loss through the extremities. Maintaining core temps should assist to some degree in prolonging comfort in fingers and toes. I read one message board participant's post which claimed that the use of a heated vest allowed him to wear summer gloves for winter riding. I have never used a heated vest, but there have been occasions where my body was hot and perspiring on a frosty ride and yet my fingers were numb or in pain while wrapped in thick winter riding gloves and liners. Perhaps it's poor circulation on my part, but I don't believe the affect to be anywhere near as defined as the aforementioned poster stated. Consider this scenario. You are standing in a room that is heated to 100°F and you place your hands in a freezer  or a bucket of ice water. Are your hands going to remain toasty warm because your core and everything aside from your hands is warm? I certainly encourage you to keep your core warm, but you will still require gear for your hands and feet for cold weather riding. They can be treated with layers as described earlier (wicking, insulating, shell).

For the feet you can get moisture wicking socks as the base layer. Wool socks are a good thermal layer. You can also find thermal socks made of synthetic blends or perhaps double up on regular socks. The shell layer will most likely be your shoes or boots. Leather work boots are a relatively cheap option for riding boots. Purpose built riding boots are available and they may offer better protection in an accident, but they can be expensive. Choose a pair of boots without steel toes. Once the steel toes get cold they will chill your toes. If you can't get used to boots and insist on shoes look for something waterproof and with thick material. Breathable athletic shoes will not serve you well for winter riding. You can also get shoe covers that are meant to seal block wind and water. If you like to keep your feet on the ground at times for slick conditions I'm not sure that many shoe covers will have a long life.

Tip : Don't wear socks or layers of socks so thick that your feet are squeezed. The pressure reduces circulation and can make your feet feel colder. If purchasing shoes or boots for cold riding, try them on with the socks you'll wear when riding if possible.

Hands again use the 3 layering principals. Glove liners can be used for a base layer. Winter riding gloves should have insulation and an outer shell for wind/waterproofing. The problematic bit of keeping hands warm is that we operate the throttle, brakes, lights, horn, and so on with them. Thick gloves with lots of insulation hamper mobility as well as our ability to feel the controls without needing to look away from the road. This makes other methods of keeping the hands warm, which will be discussed later in the article, quite beneficial. Riding mittens are available that position all of the fingers together inside instead of separate like gloves. This allows the four fingers to share warmth and I would think reducing the surface area of the shell exposed to the elements helps as well. Not everyone is comfortable operating the controls in mittens, particularly riders accustomed to using only a couple of fingers to apply the brakes. Whether you choose gloves or mittens, longer gauntlets aid in keeping the wrists warm and sealing air out of your jacket.



Accessories And Alternatives

Comfort and safety in extreme cold or extend cold riding may require more than the conventional layering techniques described above. You can only add so many layers before limiting mobility. If you are dressed to the max and still cold, it's time to consider these options. You can also use the tools below to reduce your gear in milder temps and wear thinner clothing.


Heated Clothing And Gear

All sorts of heated clothing and accessories are available. Heated grips, gloves, vests, jackets, liners, insoles, mats/pads... pretty much anything you would want heated is for sale somewhere. I'm primarily referring to electrically heated items, but there are chemical and gel heating options. The chemical and gel heated garments are most commonly gloves with a pouch at the back of the hand. A single-use chemical hand warmer or a gel pack can be inserted. Chemical hand warmers make use of a chemical reaction that produces heat. Manufacturers quote times anywhere from 30 minutes to multiple hours. Gel packs are usually heated in a microwave prior to use and are quoted at times of minutes to a few hours that they can supply heat. Reviews I've read of gel packs are usually on the low end at around 30 minutes. Chemical warmers get better reviews for longevity, but their price will add up if you ride regularly since they're one-time use. I question the ability of either chemical or gel packs to provide sufficient heat for comfortable riding, but it may be worth picking up a few hand warmer packs and seeing how they work in your pockets or between layers. They should never be placed directly against the skin and if you start feeling uncomfortably hot pull over and remove them or relocate them farther from your skin.

Electrically heated accessories use resistive elements to convert electrical energy into thermal energy. Electric heating elements can usually exceed the temperatures that gel and chemical heaters produce. I have measured grip heater elements at over 250°F, though actual temp coming through the grips isn't as high. They also give off heat or as long as you need it, provided you are able to supply enough power. Some clothing uses batteries or battery packs. These are limited by the amount of energy stored in the batteries. Creating a substantial amount of heat for very long requires a lot of energy. If you could get enough data from the manufacturer you could calculate approximately how long the items would work, but all manufacturers don't offer up enough information. An easier way to evaluate what works and for how long is to search for reviews on the exact item you are considering. Amazon and google searches are good places to start looking for reviews.

Tip : Invest in a rechargeable solution if your gear uses standard (AA, C, etc...) batteries and you plan to use it often.

Other gear is meant to connect to your scooter's electrical system. Heating duration and intensity in this case will depend on your scooter's battery and charging system. The average 50-150cc scooter won't support multiple heated accessories and charge the battery or even maintain it. Some single items consume more power than the charging system can supply. If you use more current than the charging system can supply, then the battery will be drained over time. The charging systems on my 1E40QMB (Chinese 49cc two-stroke) and 1P39QMB (Chinese 49cc four-stroke) scooters have been able to support up to about 1 to 1.5 amps of current, roughly 10-20 watts, while maintaining their batteries. Beyond there the battery charge suffers. The actual numbers will vary depending on your scooter, what else it's powering, and how you ride. If you have an 11 pole stator and run LED turn signals and brake/tail lights with no other accessories you'll have more energy for heaters. A 6 pole stator on a scooter with incandescent bulbs and a stereo on the other hand wouldn't have much or anything to spare without draining the battery. The charging system produces less power at idle and low RPM than it does at cruise RPM so stop and go riding will be tougher on the battery than open road cruising.

If you will be using a battery charger/maintainer after each ride a little drain may be of little to no concern. If you will be parking out in the cold and expecting the electric starter to work later you need to pay close attention to your battery and charging system. Chilly temps are already rough on batteries and degrade their performance. A battery that's been drained by heating gear then left in the cold will have little chance of supplying sufficient power for the electric starter later. Even once it's started you won't be able to use full power on the heating accessories with a weak battery. Consider installing a voltmeter on your scooter. You can find models that plug into a cigarette lighter/12V receptacle or that are wired to the battery to display voltage. If you see 13V or above at the battery, it should be maintaining or charging. If it creeps much below 13V your battery is being drained. If your heated gear is adjustable you can use these numbers to help you keep the battery up. For example if you are seeing 12V on high, consider switching to low or if the system is totally adjustable by a dial, dial it back a bit until you see 13V+. You'll have to decide how much battery power you're willing to sacrifice for warmth and vice versa for your needs.

Tip : Turn your heated accessories off or down for a little while before you reach your destination to let the battery regain some of it's charge before parking if you can handle the cold without them briefly.

Whether you are using battery pack or scooter powered electric gear, look for items that use pulse width modulation instead of resistors to regulate heat. Using resistors or variable resistors to alter heat output has a couple of negative side effects. The resistor will use a little power and make the system less energy efficient. A resistor could get very hot, depending upon the exact setup. I measured a resistor in a set of grip heaters at over 350°F, which is potentially dangerous to have bundled with wires and near plastics. Pulse width modulators basically turn the power on and off to the heating elements rapidly. Typically you'll have a dial for the heating control with a PWM. At max the signal is allowed through without being switched off, to provide 100% power (100% duty cycle). At halfway on the dial, assuming it's linear, power is on and off for the same amount of time (50% duty cycle). In the 0 or off position, power should always be off to provide no heat (0% duty cycle). This rapid switching uses much less energy and produces less unwanted heat in the controller compared to resistive regulation.

Due to these power limitations, you will need to decide which areas are in the most need of electric heating. Most often it's easier to stack up layers on the body and limbs so the feet and hands are the best candidates for heating. The feet don't have to do much when operating a scooter, so preserving mobility in the hands with electric heat is priority number one in my opinion. I find it much easier to maneuver my scooter when I can feel my fingers and move them somewhat freely. Heated grips or grip heaters and heated gloves, mittens, and liners are all available. Grip heaters (placed under existing grips) and heated grips (replacement grips with built-in heating elements) warm up your palms and the insides of your fingers. Gloves, liners, and mittens usually heat the back of your hand. Some heat the fingers and others do not. I would suggest choosing gloves, liners, or mittens that do heat your fingers. Some choose to combine grip heating and glove heating to keep the whole hand warm. It sounds like a winning plan, until you consider power limitations. Consider starting with the option that fits your needs the best and then adding the other later if needed.

Tip : Shop around and do your research when choosing heated accessories. They are not all created equal and there is a big price spread when shopping for heated gear. Make sure you know what you're getting. For example, some electric clothing and accessories include no heat control or power supply and may require it to be purchased separately.

Check out the grip heater installation later in this article for more information about heated gear installation, modification, and power consumption. CLICK HERE


Windshield



A windshield is an excellent way to block a lot of cold air from hitting your torso and head. There are even some windshields shaped to shield your hands as well. I suggest choosing a windshield that is tall and wide enough to cover the majority of your exposed area above the handlebars while in your normal riding position. A smaller windshield will force you to lean down to keep the air off of you. The cold is bad enough without needing to ride in uncomfortable positions. I've heard riders report small windshields at bad angles that make matters worse by directing all of the air into their face. I find that with a large shield, approximately 2'x2', I am able to leave my visor open even in sub-freezing temps if I choose too without being uncomfortable. This is nice if you're a heavy breather that has trouble with visors and/or glasses fogging up no matter what tricks you've tried.

As long as I've been a member of scooter forums I've seen discussion regarding changes in speed and fuel economy. Some say they go slower, some say they go faster, mileage goes up, mileage goes down. I thought I had a pretty good idea of what would happen, but I tried a windshield for myself and took notes of the results. I kept everything as constant as I could, with the windshield being the major variable. The windshield I used was a Slipstreamer Scoot 50 ( Parts For Scooters Part#172-88 ). It had a little more frontal area than I did, but the windshield is a more aerodynamic shape than I am. I found that cruise speed, sitting up in my regular riding position, remained the same. Fuel economy was also essentially the same. The only times the windshield had a negative effect on performance were max speed and max acceleration. I usually tucked down to reduce wind resistance and speed up for those, but tucking down accomplishes very little when you've got a windshield in front of you anyway. If you ride in a standard upright position you'll probably never notice these things or at least it will be worth the losses in speed for the gains in warmth.

Windshields do take some getting used to if you've never rode with one before. One thing I had trouble with is the outline of the shield. I had difficulty with my eyes fixating on the edges for some reason when I first used a shield and it made turning feel strange to me. Windy weather takes some getting used to as well. Suddenly the scooter and every sound it makes gets louder without the wind noise. That's not necessarily a bad thing. Some people grow to love windshields and leave them on year-round. I see them as a very useful tool for cold weather riding, but I'll be glad to remove it when spring and summer come around again. If you have to brave the elements all winter long, it's not a waste of money in my opinion if you only use it seasonally.

Check out more windshield tips and info later in this article. CLICK HERE


Handguards and Mitts



Handguards are basically windshields for your hands. They mount just in front of the grips and levers as you could probably guess. You can find them fairly cheap and they come in handlebar mount or mirror mount so you can attach them to about any scooter or bike. If you go this route, choose solid handguards rather than vented brushguards that will let some air pass through. Also look for the larger ones. Some are small and don't block enough air to be effective. I tried a set of handguards and found them to be better than nothing, but they didn't do a lot for me. Mine were on the small side though and I liked them mounted farther forward so I had more room for my hands to move, both of which allowed more air to hit my gloves.



Handlebar mitts (also called hippo hands, bar muffs, and scooter mitts) wrap around each side of the scooter's controls. They're a mitten or glove for your hands and the controls. Mitts shield you from airflow and create a little warmer environment for your hands. I found that I could wear thinner gloves than normal when using mitts on mild nights. On colder nights I still needed thick gloves and possibly other solutions, but the mitts provided a noticeable difference. Mitts serve their purpose of keeping hands warm well, but they can have a major drawback... mobility. Some mitts aren't very roomy inside and that can make it difficult to use certain controls, especially with thick gloves on. Anytime you want to move your hands you have to remove them from the mitts and then re-insert them. Removal is easy. Getting your hands back in without looking can be cumbersome and staring at the handlebars instead of the road is a safety hazard. I move around a lot and I stopped using my mitts because I had too many close calls related to them. I've seen homemade mitts before with frames to keep them open. That may be a good option if you can build your own. Read more reviews than just mine if you think mitts may be for you. Some riders love them. I just can't get past the mobility issues, though I enjoyed the warmth.

Check out more details about the mitts I owned and how I modified one pair later in this thread by CLICKING HERE.


Aprons

I've heard these go by many names. Lap blanket, scooter skirt, scooter apron, leg apron, and more. Whatever you wish to call them, they're covers made to shield your legs and lower body from the elements. CLICK HERE to view examples. Some attach to the scooter and I believe some attach to the rider. They're usually a windproof fabric, leather, or vinyl outer layer and those intended for winter use rather than just rain protection are insulated. Aside from keeping the wind out and keeping you dry, they may allow a bit of heat from the engine to aid in warming your lower body. When using an apron, verify that it is secure and properly sized so it cannot find it's way into any moving parts before riding.



Putting It All Together

Now that you know the basic ways to create and preserve warmth it's up to you to choose your best options. Obviously if your hands are aching and everything else is okay, you should look into gloves, liners, heated gloves or grips, handguards, and so on. You also need to consider your mobility requirements and what you're comfortable with. If you can't function in heavy gear, you may need to look to heated gear or scooter mounted items like a windshield and heated grips. If you ride more than one scooter or bike it may be easier and more affordable to use heated or non-heated clothing versus windshields, handguards, grips, or anything else that is mounted to your two-wheeler and not easily transferable. If your electrical system is lacking or bogged down by other accessories or if you aren't able to keep your battery charged for any reason you should look into things that don't draw power from the scooter like additional layers, battery heated clothing, and windshields. Luckily there are a lot of choices so you can take your needs and preferences into consideration when choosing gear.

Scroll down or CLICK HERE to see some setups that 49ccScoot members use.

Remember that just because you are prepared for the cold, that doesn't mean you are ready to brave snow and ice. Please evaluate the current and future weather conditions when you consider riding/commuting in the winter. Ice should be avoided at all costs. Avoid snow if possible as well, but if you wish to brave the snow I strongly advise seeing what it's like in an empty parking lot before you decide to head out into traffic. Sometimes the risks of riding far outweigh the rewards so please use your best judgement and ride safe. Stay warm and keep scrolling down for some additional information. Thanks for reading!


Scroll down or use these links to navigate :

Member Submitted Gear Setups
Tusk Heated Grips :Installation And Observations
Windshield Experiences And Tips
My Experiences With Handlebar Mitts
Handguard Installation

[90GTVert]

Member Submitted Gear Setups


If you'd like to submit your cold weather setup, please fill out the template below and PM it to me (90GTVert).

Template to copy (ctrl+c) + paste (ctrl+v)
Temperature :
Riding Range :
Head, Face, & Neck :
Body :
Legs :
Feet :
Hands:
Scooter Mounted Gear :

Submitted by 90GTVert
Temperature : 50°F ±5° @ Night
Riding Range : 10 miles +
Head, Face, & Neck : HJC Full Face Helmet
Body : T-Shirt, Joe Rocket Ballistic 3.0 Jacket w/Liner or Flannel Shirt
Legs : Thermal Long Johns, Jeans
Feet : Regular or Thermal Socks, Sneakers or Work Boots
Hands: First Gear 40g Thinsulate Textile Gloves or Olympia Winter Leather Gloves
Scooter Mounted Gear : None

Temperature : 40°F ±5° @ Night
Riding Range : 10 miles +
Head, Face, & Neck : HJC Full Face Helmet
Body : T-Shirt, Flannel Shirt, Joe Rocket Ballistic 3.0 Jacket w/Liner
Legs : Thermal Long Johns, Jeans
Feet : Thermal Socks, Sneakers or Work Boots
Hands: Olympia Leather Gore-Tex Gloves, Glove Liners
Scooter Mounted Gear : Windshield & Heated Grips Optional

Temperature : Freezing And Below @ Night
Riding Range : 10 miles +
Head, Face, & Neck : HJC Full Face Helmet, Neck Warmer
Body : T-Shirt, Flannel Shirt, Joe Rocket Ballistic 3.0 Jacket w/Liner
Legs : Thermal Long Johns (2 pairs), Jeans
Feet : Socks, Thermal Socks, Sneakers or Work Boots
Hands: Olympia Leather Gore-Tex Gloves, Glove Liners
Scooter Mounted Gear : Windshield & Heated Grips

Submitted by sitticuss
Temperature : 55-60@ Night
Riding Range : 5-10 miles
Head, Face, & Neck : glasses baseball cap
Body : T-shirt,sweater,rain jacket
Legs : jeans
Feet : socks,work boots
Hands: Gore-Tex Gloves
Scooter Mounted Gear : none

[90GTVert]

Tusk Heated Grips
Installation And Observations


I found this Tusk grip heater kit cheap. You can get them HERE for $25 at the time of posting.



It comes with a heating element to install under each grip, wires, a resistor to change heat settings, and a low/off/high switch as well as instructions.








Before I installed anything, I wanted to see what kind of current draw these create. I didn't see specs online. I hooked up the kit and installed a 1ohm 10W resistor in line with the ground.



This way I could measure voltage drop across the resistor to find current. Using a 1ohm resistor makes it very simple, because voltage drop = current. Otherwise I = V/R, where I is current, V is volts (the difference in voltage before and after the resistor in this case), and R is resistance. So using a 1ohm resistance means you divide by 1 and simplifies the exercise.

On low I measured 1.85A (12.18V before the resistor, 10.33V after). On high I got 2.64A (12.08V before, 9.44V after). Converted to watts that's about 22.5W on low and 32W on high.

The most powerful thing I've ran pretty much full time before was a stereo on my Venus 2T scooter. That averaged around 1-1.5A at the levels I normally listened at it. I found that I needed to keep my idle above 2000RPM on the 2T to keep charging up if I wanted the battery to be tip-top at the end of a ride. The stereo would vary amperage too, so 1.5A would be about the peak. These grips are drawing 1.85A constantly on low and 2.64A constantly on high. I suspected that this would be do-able for me, since my scoot sits in the garage then goes out for an hour to two hours and then back in the garage with plenty of time before the next ride. As long as the battery and charging system can keep them going for 2 hours, I'll be fine since I can plug in the Battery Tender between rides. This kind of draw could be bad for someone that rides to work, then leaves their scooter in freezing and below temps, and then relies on the e-start to get the scoot going so they can ride home unless they have a better charging system than the typical 50cc scooter.

I removed the 1ohm resistor and reconnected the heater system, just leaving the heaters on the bench.




I connected a Battery Tender to help the scooter's battery and turned the heaters on low. After giving them some time to heat up I checked the temps until I saw them level out. The grip heating elements maxed out around 145F nearest the wires. The farther I checked away from the wires, the cooler they were but the temp seemed to rise as I gave them more time. I touched the resistor that is inline with the wiring (not the one I was using for checking current, the one included in the kit). It burnt my fingers when I touched it. When I used the thermometer on it I saw over 350F.




I switched over to the high setting for the heaters. This time the elements peaked out around 250F nearest the wire connections. The resistor that started off around 350F on low gradually cooled. It ended up around 50F before I quit checking, with the garage temp at 41F.

I didn't like the 350 degree resistor when set on low. Considering I've watched my plastics melt 100 degrees cooler and I believe a lot of wiring insulation is rated at 80-105C (176-221F), it just doesn't seem like a great idea to have that stuffed into the fairings with other wires. I'm sure hundreds or thousands of people have done this before, but I don't want to continue with the grip heaters as they are.


I ordered this LED dimmer from and eBay seller. $5 to eliminate a heat source, cut power consumption at lower heat, and have adjustable heat. I had no desire to attempt building my own PWM circuit and I'd prob spend well over $5 on it anyway. According to the add it can handle roughly double the amps/watts I'm seeing.




The LED dimmer came in.




It was hard to tell where the dial was set, so I used a razor to scratch in a line.




Here is the wiring diagram from Tusk showing how the grip heaters were wired.




I tried both series and parallel wiring with the dimmer/PWM. I assumed parallel would be the way to go, but I wanted to see what they did in series anyway.






Here are current, power, and temperatures of the heating elements with the dimmer set at 3 levels. I used degrees relative to what would be straight up when the dimmer is held as shown in the photos below.

90°	180°	270°(Max)

		Series			Parallel
	Amps	Watts	Temp	Amps	Watts	Temp
90°	0.22	2.85	N/A	0.7	8.9	130°F
180°	0.56	7.17	N/A	1.82	22.81	220°F
270°	0.83	10.57	135°F	2.62	32.59	275°F

I did not test series below the max setting because it's max setting was about as low as I'd expect to do much good. I would think if you wanted to limit power consumption and liked a low heat setting, you could simplify the circuit a bit by just wiring an on/off (SPST) switch into a series circuit. Then you should see the same as max when on. You wouldn't get much heat, but it wouldn't use much power either.

Parallel wiring gave the best result unless low draw is the goal. Wired as directed by Tusk, the heaters used 22.5W to reach 140°F on low. Now they're using about the same power to reach 220°F and probably only around 10W at 140°F.

I tested the current draw with the dimmer set to OFF and found 0.01A and 0.13W. It's almost nothing, but not quite, so a switch should be used inline to be sure the battery is not slowly draining.


Installation

I began the installation by disconnecting the negative battery terminal.


Then I removed any panels where I'd need to be running wires later.


Then I moved to removing the left side grip. The end of my grip was cut open to clear a bar end mirror at one point, so I used a small screwdriver to pry the grip up a bit and then stuck the nozzle of a WD-40 can under the grip.


You may need to work on the grip from the other end if yours are sealed. You can try using a screwdriver to gently pry the grip out enough to get the WD-40 nozzle in or you may need to remove the controls.


A little WD-40 in a couple of spots should be enough that you can grab the grip and twist as you pull so it will come off.



I moved to the right side. Initially I tried an old trick using an air compressor and blow gun. Sometimes you can remove grips by blowing air into the end of the grip (if there's a small hole as many have) as you twist and pull the grip off. In this case too much air was escaping around the throttle and other areas for it to work.


I decided to remove the switch assembly partially on that side so that I could get behind the grip easily. There are 2 screws that hold the halves of the control assembly together on this and many common scooters. I removed those.


Once part of the control assembly was out of the way, I had no trouble getting behind the grip to remove it by spraying some WD-40 under it as I did on the other side.




Once the grip was removed, I reinstalled the control assembly with the 2 screws previously removed.


I cleaned the metal handlebar on the left side with brake cleaner to remove any WD-40 or other residue. I cleaned the plastic/rubber parts with a general purpose cleaner/degreaser. You can clean the metal with cleaner/degreaser, but do not clean plastic and rubber parts with brake cleaner or they will be ruined.


After everything was cleaned, I wiped the left handlebar with alcohol and then wrapped it in electrical tape. This is done to help insulate the handlebar to reduce heat transfer and also to reduce the risk of the heating element wearing and shorting on the metal. I only did one wrap. In hindsight I would have wrapped it at least one more time. Just don't wrap the bar so much that the grip won't fit over the wrapped bar and heater later.


I held one of the heating elements so that the wire connections were pressed between my thumb and forefinger. Then I bent the wires out at roughly a 90 degree angle. This is the method Tusk describes in their twist throttle addendum (linked at the bottom of this section). They show it for the throttle side, but since I'm not running wires straight out I used the same method for this side.
*Please also read the updates at the bottom of this section for farther information about protecting these wires from damage.*


I wiped over the electrical tape with alcohol and then peeled the backing off of the heating element and stuck it on so that the wires were toward the center of the scooter and clocked to the bottom. Make sure you work the air out from under the heating element when it is applied.



I wrapped electrical tape around the wire end of the heating element a couple of times to help protect the connections.


I also wrapped tape around the other end and down the seam of the heating element in hopes that this would protect the heater if I need to remove the grip later.


Then I re-installed the grip. You should be able to push the grip on or tap the end of it with a rubber mallet. Pay attention as the grip goes on to make sure you aren't pushing the heater element around. If you have a lot of trouble getting a grip to go back on you can use a small amount of window cleaner that contains alcohol. Use a very small amount and the alcohol should evaporate on it's own fairly quickly. Try to avoid using any liquid if possible though, since you are dealing with electric elements.


I moved to the throttle side and repeated most of the process. Before sticking the element on, I checked where the wires would move as the throttle was twisted. I chose to install the heater with the wires at the bottom on this side as well. The throttle assembly is plastic so I did not use electrical tape under the heating element. I wrapped the whole element after it was applied to protect it and for a small amount of added insulation. The throttle side tends to get hotter, so I thought the insulation would be a good idea. I'm not sure that it made much or any difference. Then I re-installed the throttle grip.



I used zip ties to secure the wires along other cables on both sides and then left them until I finished the wiring later. You need to leave slack on the throttle side so the throttle can move without tugging on the wires. Double check that everything moves freely before proceeding.





Next I found a spot to mount the heat controller (LED dimmer).


I marked the input and output sides and then removed the sticker and applied double-sided tape. I would prefer 3M double-sided automotive tape instead, but I had this around.



I cut the connectors off of each end so I could fit the wires through smaller holes.


I soldered directly to the wires, but if you want to keep the connectors intact you can get their male/female counterparts to plug in cheap if you search eBay for "cctv connectors".


I drilled a hole at each end for wires and mounted the control with the double-sided tape. Always be aware of what's on the other side when drilling through panels.


I used small zip ties on the opposite side of the panel to help hold the controller and prevent tugging on the wiring should the double-sided tape ever fail.


With the major components mounted I moved on to wiring it all together. Here's a diagram showing how I wired my grips. I opted to use a relay instead of a traditional switch so that the controller could only get power when the ignition is turned on. This way I can't forget and leave the heaters on. You can tap into the switched power wire coming out of the ignition switch or tap into the positive side of a switched accessory. You don't need much power for a switching signal to the relay, so about anywhere you can get 12VDC+ that is off with the key off and on with the key on will work. You can use a tap/splice connector or I prefer to strip about 1/8" of wire insulation off of and then solder a wire onto that point then electrical tape it.


I mounted the relay by the horn and rectifier/regulator. If you mount anything above suspension components, make sure there is no contact at any point of the suspension's travel.


I used a 5A fuse between the battery and relay to protect the scooter's electrical system should anything malfunction.


I made sure everything worked and checked over wiring and components to be sure nothing was getting hot that isn't supposed to before putting the panels back on. I had a Battery Tender on the battery and it was fully charged before I turned on the heaters. I let the heaters run for 30 minutes to be sure everything was up to temp and to check temps. The temps below are max temps. There are spots that are much cooler on the grips.

Time Elapsed	Left Temp	Right Temp
0 Minutes	43°F	43°F
2 Minutes	50°F	78°F
5 Minutes	85°F	120°F
10 Minutes	118°F	140°F
15 Minutes	132°F	170°F
30 Minutes	127°F	158°F

When I saw the temps drop after 30 minutes I removed the charger and turned everything off to check battery voltage. It was down to about 10V. That's the drain with a Battery Tender connected to help out while the scooter was off. You'd have a dead battery in no time leaving these on accidentally.

To me, with bare hands 120-140°F felt nice and warm. Beyond that and it's uncomfortable. It probably takes a lot more with gloves on.

I setup my idle next. I let the engine warm up and settle into a normal idle and watched my voltmeter that's plugged into a 12V outlet with the heaters off and then on max for just a few seconds. Voltage sways a bit, as does idle speed, so I recorded the range as I upped idle speed from 1700-1800 where I had it. The tail light (LED), wideband, TrailTech Vapor, and oil temp gauges were all on as well since I can't turn them off.

Engine Speed	Off	Max
1700-1800RPM	12.4-12.5V	11.8-11.9V
1800-1900RPM	12.5-12.7V	11.8-12.1V
1900-2000RPM	12.6-12.8V	11.8-12.1V
2000-2100RPM	12.6-12.9V	11.8-12.1V
2100-2200RPM	12.7-13.1V	11.8-12.2V
2400-2500RPM	13.0-13.5V	12.0-12.4V
3000-3100RPM	13.4-14.0V	12.2-12.5V
3500-3600RPM	13.5-14.2V	12.3-12.7V
4000-4100RPM	13.6-14.4V	12.3-12.8V
4500-4600RPM	13.8-14.6V	12.3-12.9V
5000-5100RPM	14.0-14.7V	12.4-12.9V

You can see that after just over 2000RPM I started going up in larger RPM increments between checks and I went well beyond any reasonable idle speed. It looks like it will be draining the battery at idle regardless of where it's set so I set mine to about 2100RPM. I tried revving it to 7-8000RPM and I still didn't see 13V with the heaters on.

I got out for a ride for some real world info. It was my first ride for the grip heaters and a pair of Bikemaster handlebar mitts I modded. I had the scoot hooked up to a Battery Tender, so I removed that 1 hour prior to the ride. Just before the ride I checked and the battery was at 12.8V. Outside temp was 31F. I hoped that with the heaters and the mitts I may be able to use a little thinner gloves. Normally I wear my thickest leather gloves and glove liners for 40F and below. I stop wearing my textile gloves with thinner linings at about 50F, but I gave them a try with the heaters and mitts.

I cranked the heaters to max and headed out. Within 2 miles my right hand was getting very warm, somewhat uncomfortable. I could feel warmth with my left hand, but nothing at all like the right. I left the heaters on max and eased my grip on the right side to negate some of the heat.

My left hand started feeling nice and warm by about 5 miles in. At that point the right hand grip was really hot. Well beyond comfortable temp to me. I took my left hand out of the mitt so I could try to adjust the control, but I couldn't see to tell where the dial was set. In most circumstances this would make no difference, but I was trying to keep track of what worked and what the voltmeter showed. A car was coming behind me so I decided I better quit trying to mess with that and just leave it on max till I got to town 3-4 miles away by then.

I got to town a total of 9 miles from the start of the ride. Even with the new mitts that I spent a bunch of time modifying, I found them difficult to deal with when moving my hands in and out. They were nice once my hands were in and I had no issues operating any of the controls so that was a minor win. Unfortunately I can't keep still so the inability to safely transition in and out of the mitts was a real letdown.

I pulled over and removed the mitts for in town riding. I also cranked the heater dial back to half. I had been seeing 11.1-12.4V while riding mostly WOT to town. As I rode in town, still 7000-8500RPM regularly, 1/2 power was fluctuating within 11.7-13.0V. 1/2 wasn't enough to maintain good heat, so I adjusted the dial to 2/3 after a few minutes. The voltmeter read 11.5-12.5V on that setting and the grips stayed pretty warm.

I decided to see how the heaters would work without the mitts on the ride home. I turned the heaters back to max as I left town and kept them there all the way home. I won't say they worked any miracles, but I was surprised they worked as well as they did. Even without the mitts the right grip got uncomfortably hot and the left grip was warm. I tried to reposition my hands from time to time to press my fingers in more. My hands remained warm all the way home, though my fingertips were a bit chilly. That's a little better than I can normally expect from the thicker gloves with liners in these temps. With the gloves I was wearing, I'd be in pain from my fingertips without the heaters well before I made it home.

When I parked the scoot I turned it off and turned the heaters off. I turned the key back on and the battery was at 12.1V. Not too bad for 30 miles / 1hr 15min of riding with the heaters on.

It looks like 1/2 power and below would allow me to maintain and even slowly charge the battery. 1/2 to 2/3 should be a minimal drain. Above 2/3 and it's a definite drain. I never checked draw at 1/2 power before, but from my other numbers I'm guessing the scooter could support something like 1.5 amps without much trouble. To run them on or near max at approximately 2.6A, a battery charger/maintainer should be used between rides and I wouldn't suggest leaving them on high if you'll be riding for multiple hours if you expect the electric start to work later. I'm not so sure it's advisable to even drain the battery to 12V as I did if you had to leave the scooter in the cold and without a charger for very long, such as a work/school day or overnight. You definitely need to pay attention to battery condition if you decide to use these grip heaters, but I think it's worth the effort if you have to ride in the cold.


Tusk Grip Heater Instructions
www.49ccscoot.com/manuals/GripHtrInstall.pdf

Tusk Grip Heater Twist Throttle Addendum
www.49ccscoot.com/manuals/GripHtrTwist.pdf


Updates : I noticed that my left hand was getting hot and my right hand was getting cold while riding one night. Looked down and the voltmeter was at 13-13.4V so I knew something was up. It was very obvious by the time I got home since one hand was really hot and the fingertips on the other were stinging from the cold.

Found that one of the wires broke where they're soldered onto the heating element by Tusk. Took it apart and fixed it. All I had to do was strip back 1/8" or so from the broken wire and solder it back into place. Of course this requires removal of the grips and electrical tape previously applied.




While I was in there I wanted to see just how much thicker the grip is on one side than the other, since the right hand is always warmer when everything is working. I didn't have any easy way to measure without slicing the grips open so I used a snap gauge for the ID and caliper for OD to figure out thickness. I came up with 1.6mm thick for the throttle side and about 3.4mm thick on the left side. Prob not terribly accurate, but basically twice as thick on the cool side. I figured a lot of it is prob transfer into the metal bar on that side, but still I wanted to try a set of BMX grips I had that are equal on both sides.



I let the heaters run on high for 5 minutes and then checked temps. 94F on the left, 109F on the right. Last time I checked at 5 minutes with the old grips it was 85 left, 120 right. Approx a 34% difference before, 15% now. May be able to get them closer if the bar were wrapped more under the left side heating element. I didn't want to peel off the element at the time.


35 miles into the ride after the above repair the throttle side grip went off. Once again the wire had broken. The wire was very hard at the end. I think I may have overheated it during the last repair. I didn't remove the throttle cable that time and was trying to solder while holding the throttle open as well so it was not ideal.




I disconnected the throttle cable so I could work with the connections straight up, then cut about 1" off the end of the broken wire. I soldered it back on much quicker this time and the wire didn't stiffen up near the joint. I applied hot glue to try and take stress off of the connections.




Wrapped over it with electrical tape again and re-secured the wires to the throttle cable with zip ties.




I turned the heaters on to check before re-installing the grip and this side didn't get warm. When the wire broke the very first time the connection had came off of the backing of the heating element. You can see the goo that once glued it down around the area in an earlier pic. That's how it looked after heat from soldering the first time so it was hard to see, but the path of the heating element was broken.




The element is plastic coated past where it broke. I made a slit on each side of the element track about 1/8" back with a razor. Tried peeling the plastic off, but that didn't work so I used the soldering iron to melt the plastic there. No trouble soldering after that.



I tested before any reassembly and it worked so I put it together again with hot glue and tape. The glue seems to be working, but here's another suggestion from 190mech.

Jan 20, 2014 20:13:39 GMT -5 190mech said:

What about wrapping the wire a turn around the grip housing before grip installation,that way it wont tend to twist the stiff solder joint loose??

Jan 23, 2014 0:19:23 GMT -5 gmac said:

Next time try looping the output leads around the grip and then zip tying them to the flange of the grip to prevent lead pull out. Also, look at the Dual Star grips with a dual grid and no resistor. I also loop the leads around the bars inboard of the switch to allow the lead freedom to follow the rotation of the throttle.

www.fjr1300.info/mods/tom3.html

Cheers Garry

[90GTVert]

Windshield Experiences & Tips


I sat on the scooter in a normal riding position and used a tape measure, starting level with the tops of the control assemblies, to measure how high the top of my helmet was. I measured roughly 2ft. Then I measured straight across my shoulders and got a little over 2ft. I wanted a windshield that would cover the majority of my upper body and head so I was looking for a windshield about 2'x2'. Something smaller should provide less frontal area and drag and potentially increase cruise speeds and fuel economy to some degree, but I don't want to have to lean down to be covered.

I checked out some cheap shields on eBay that could be purchased for around $50. I had read reviews saying the hardware and shields on these were low quality so I also looked at more expensive Slipstreamer windshields. Everything appeared to be good quality and the Scoot series windshields got 4-5 star (of 5) reviews. I had also seen a Slipstreamer on a scooter in person a few years ago and the owner was happy with it. The Scoot 50 was listed as 23.8" x 22.7" and is one of the largest shields I found so I chose it. The Slipstreamer Scoot series windshields are considerably more expensive than the cheapest on eBay, but I wanted a quality product if possible. You can check out Slipstreamer's Scoot windshields at Parts For Scooters or HERE.
 

Here's a look at just how big the Scoot 50 is compared to the TaoTao ATM50-A1's front.



The windshield takes time, but it's not difficult to install. Most of the time is spent once it's on, trying to get it situated how you want it. I suggest getting all of the parts in place, but leaving everything loose enough that it can be moved. Sit on the scooter and make sure you mirrors can be adjusted where they need to be once the windshield is basically where you want it. Once it's all in position, tighten all fasteners enough that they'll hold. Then go through the fasteners one by one and remove and apply a thread locking compound then reinstall and tighten. I found that vibrations from the scooter and wind regularly loosens fasteners if this is not done.

Here it is installed.





It leans back a little, and the top curves up to direct air over you better. The only issue with the curve at the top is that it makes the view a bit distorted there. It's not a big deal though.





If you decide to ride without the shield, this is all that's left on your bars. Not bad.




On the first ride my windshield was rattling against my mirrors. I thought I had sufficient clearance when I set it up, but I didn't realize the shield would move.




I later found two fixes for this issue. First I bent the mirror to gain more clearance. I took the mirrors off, put them in the vice, and used a long piece of steel tubing to bend them without a lot of effort.



Bending the mirrors gave me more clearance and also made them better for seeing around my shoulders/arms while riding. This wouldn't be a bad mod to do without the windshield if you are always looking at your own arm in the mirror.





I also modified my mounting hardware so it would stay tight and not wobble. I used a crayon to mark where the windshield bars sit in the thumbscrew mounts as well as where up is on the bars.



Then I removed the bars from the shield and used a square file to make notches where the thumbscrews make contact. The flat surface helps the thumbscrew make better contact with the bars and the notches help prevent movement of the bars as long as the screws don't get very loose. I used thread locker on the thumbscrews when they were reinstalled to keep them secure.



The windshield stays put with the mods and thread locker. The whole assembly still moves from big wind gusts at times, but with the addition of thread locker to the fasteners it stays tight and doesn't rattle and move otherwise. Even when it does sway, there's plenty of room between the shield and mirrors now.


If you will be riding in rain, snow, or fog consider applying Rain-X or a similar product to the windshield.


Slipstreamer Scoot Windshield Instructions
www.49ccscoot.com/manuals/SlipstreamerInstructions.pdf

[90GTVert]

My Experiences With Handlebar Mitts


I first tried ScootR Logic Scooter Mitts. You can get these for under $20 at Parts For Scooters (part# 112-5). They're easy to install. All you have to do is slide them over each side of the bars and around the mirror posts secure them with the attached velcro.




I went out for my first ride with the mitts when it was a little under 50 degrees. Normally I'd wear the gloves on the right for that, but I put on my mesh backed summer gloves instead to see how effective the Scooter Mitts were.



The Scooter Mitts worked well. With mesh gloves at below 50 my hands were just a little chilly on a 30 minute ride. I found it difficult to use the turn signal with my thumb though, because the mitts are tight in that area (at least for me and this scooter).


Later I took a 1.5hr ride at 26 degrees at night. I wore glove liners and thick leather gloves. Usually in that gear I come home with my fingers in a lot of pain. With the mitts my fingers and hands were much better. There's generally a process where my fingertips hurt, then get numb, then really hurt. I just made it to hurt, and they didn't hurt all of the time.

While they did keep my hands much warmer, the mitts impair movement when riding with winter gloves. I have a hard time using my blinkers as I should and sometimes the high/low beam gets switched accidentally. Worse than that, my hand is tight enough in the mitt that when I let off the throttle my glove is still pushing on it enough to hold it at least partially open. Between the difficulty using controls and the sticky throttle action, I came real close to crashing once. I was trying to work the signal and the mitt started falling off so I was fooling with that and then had to slow down, but the throttle stayed almost wide open. Not cool. I can get my hands in and out without ripping them off of the handlebars every time, but I have to be careful about it. Every time I need to adjust a mirror or crack the visor open or whatever, I have to remember to make sure I don't lose a mitt and slowly work my hand back into the mitt.

I really liked that my hands felt so much better after riding with the mitts.... but I didn't like not being able to use the hand controls properly and it is looking like a major safety issue. They worked OK with thin gloves on the warmer day, but big thick gloves take up too much room in the mitts. Maybe it would work for someone with smaller hands and arms? My thought was that I would need to find something similar, but more roomy, and they would be an amazing addition.



I bought a set of Bikemaster mitts from Motorcycle Superstore for about $40. They sell different models, so I chose the ones listed for a Yamaha Zuma which ended up being a one size fits most.








Here's a look at a ScootR Logic mitt on the left and a Bikemaster mitt on the right. Obviously the Bikemaster mitts are much larger. They seem to be a little more insulated. They use more velcro and attach pretty securely.




Here they are side by side mounted on the scoot.






The issue I have with the Bikemaster mitts is that they're tough to get my hands into, even just sitting on the scoot in the garage. The way they angle downward and their length makes it awkward to get into them. I can't picture doing this while riding safely. I have more room though, so I wanted to modify these a bit and see if I could make them work better.

I wanted to cut a slit by the mirror so I could face them more straight back and it would help with getting my hands into them while riding. I also wanted to shorten them somehow.



I bought 1" nylon strapping to use on the edges. The binding for regular jobs didn't look beefy enough. Sew on velcro could come in handy? The thread is heavy duty and thicker than standard thread.




I made a cutout and sewed up the edges of the mitts, then sewed on the nylon to protect it. This may win an award for worst sewing ever.




Ugly or not, the cutout does it's job and lets me position the mitt so it's not facing the ground.





I cut the seam shown below back a bit so I could open it farther. Then I tied up the old threads and sewed the edge to reinforce it.






Then I sewed velcro to two spots to allow me to fold the mitt over onto itself.



I added two velcro strips to the opposite side as well to be sure it would hold.




Here's the modified one on the left vs stock on the right. Definitely easier to deal with, at least sitting on the scoot stationary.



Then I repeated the whole process for the opposite side as well. If you are new to sewing like me, this takes quite a lot of time.




I tried out the modified Bikemaster mitts on a cold night and they did well at keeping my hands warmer as expected. The Bikemaster mitts had plenty of room for me to operate the throttle and any thumb controls. As long as my hands were in the mitts I was happy with them. Once again the problem for me was getting my hands into the mitts after removing them. Even with the mods it's awkward to me. I can't get my hands in and out quickly and I move my hands around to mess with my visor or mirrors or whatever fairly frequently. I think handlebar mitts, as well as they work for warmth, are not for me. Perhaps someday I'll try adding a frame of some sort to hold the mitts farther open. I'm not even sure that would work well enough to suit me. If you hop on the scooter, put your hands on the bars, and hardly move them until you get where you're going... you may love these things.

[90GTVert]

Handguard Installation


I picked these handguards up for $16.95 shipped from eBay seller forwardpowersports. The stickers with them say they are "Raider" brand. I do have one complaint about these (read on and I'll explain), but there are lots of other affordable deals out there so you can find a style and price that suits you.



My problem with these guards is the plastic mounting system. It's sturdy, but a tapped bolt hole on each bar clamp is very shallow and cannot withstand even normal tightening force. I was using a 1/4" drive ratchet being reasonably gently and stripped the first side. Then I was cautious on the other side and it stripped even easier than the first. The hole can be drilled deeper and re-tapped to accept a longer bolt and fix the issue, but you may wish to pay a little extra from something with a metal mounting system or simply a better designed product using plastic.





O.K., let's get to the installation. I began by installing the U-shaped portion of the clamp on my handlebar as shown. If you have separate controls and brakes you may wish to install these between the two instead. A little trial and error will show what works best for you.



The other part that forms the clamp will need to be installed next. Notice that the piece for the left side angles to the left and the one for the right heads to the right. Make sure you use the proper part.



Pry open the clamp that portion of the clamp already installed, and insert this piece as shown.





Start the short bolt from the kit in the location shown here. Do not tighten this bolt yet.



Start the medium length bolt from the kit in the top hole. Again, do not tighten this bolt yet. You need the clamp to be maneuverable on the handlebar for now.



Now attach the guard. One is intended for the left and the other for the right side, so choose the appropriate part. Just slide the long bolt from the kit through with no other mounting hardware. Right now you just want to see exactly where you need to locate the guard.



There are two attachment holes to choose from in the mount. Choose the one that works best for your setup. Decide where the guard needs to be mounted laterally as well so you can choose the appropriate mouting hardware. Adjust the angle of the clamp/mount.



Once you have the positioning figured out, tighten the two bolts that secure the clamp on the handlebar.



Then use whatever moutning hardware you need to position the guard securely where you determined it should be. I ended up using a nut (not included) and the small spacer from the kit. The larger spacer from the kit could have been cut down and used instead.



Once everything is secured, you can repeat the process for the other side. As you can see below, when properly setup the handguards will shield your hands and should be clear of the levers to ensure safe operation.











Here are the instructions that came with the kit just in case they help anyone. Sorry, I don't have a scanner so these are just photos.