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Post by birdman on Apr 3, 2014 1:16:06 GMT -5
So I finally got the scoot running with my OKO 24mm carburetor, intake manifold with 3D 6 valve reed block, and a nice cone filter intake. It runs lol (wich is better than not running) unlike my first attempt installing this kit. It has nice and crispy throttle response and pulls through the top end nicely. But I can feel a bog between 20-30mph. The guy says its a 107 main jet and 45 idle, so Im going to order a bunch of different size jets and start tuning. Anybody have any advice for me? Does anybody have a good place to get good priced OKO/PWK jets?
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Post by craisin on Apr 3, 2014 3:02:22 GMT -5
water getting in the carb can be a problem with open type filters. or it is with my 2t anyway,
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Post by moofus02 on Apr 3, 2014 6:36:10 GMT -5
Try treatland.tv they have a bunch of tuning parts for the oko carb
Sent from my SPH-L720 using proboards
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Post by 90GTVert on Apr 3, 2014 8:28:42 GMT -5
If the bog is always at a certain speed and not at a certain RPM and throttle position it could be in the CVT. Pay attention to where your throttle is when it happens so you know what to adjust. It helps to put marks on the throttle housing and grip so you can see 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, and WOT.
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Post by birdman on Apr 3, 2014 23:27:02 GMT -5
Yea the bog is only at WOT. Half throttle until I reach 30 or 35 mph, then WOT after that is ok. Top speed cruising feels the best at half throttle. But I have a new problem now I went for a ride today to see how the scoot would ride with my new modifications. My ride was cut short because the carburetor decided to start peeing fuel out of the port thats located next to the bowls drain bolt. The leak would slow down only when at WOT. It wasn't doing this yesterday, IDK whats going on here now. any advice? And thanks moofus02
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Post by 90GTVert on Apr 4, 2014 7:32:22 GMT -5
Take the carb off and check the float height and make sure the float can move freely and is not sticking. If you hold the carb upside down the float should sit so it looks parallel with the rest of the carb.
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Post by tomos80cc on Apr 4, 2014 7:53:21 GMT -5
And dont forget to check the diaphram. That was giving me a bogging issue recently.
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Post by birdman on Apr 4, 2014 13:00:58 GMT -5
The float is correct. It moves freely like it is supposed to. Any other help would be greatly appreciated. I was thinking about bending the floats tab to help keep the fuel at a lower level. What do you think about that?
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Post by 90GTVert on Apr 4, 2014 13:14:35 GMT -5
Try it and take a quick test run at lower throttle or let it idle for a few or cruise around a parking lot or something. You said it's overflowing at low throttle, so that should let you know if you're getting anywhere. If it doesn't work or performance drops off, just put it back. Don't change it a whole lot at once because sometimes a little change makes a big difference.
Another trick for setting float height is to put a clear hose on the bowl drain and run it up in the air. Open the drain and hold the hose up and where the top of the fuel is in the bowl should be where it is in the carb. Obviously don't run/ride it that way but it lets you kinda see the fuel level. If you decide to try that, I'd do it as-is and then after setting so you see how much you change it and where to go back to if needed.
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Post by birdman on Apr 4, 2014 13:38:18 GMT -5
Hey thanks 90GTVert. Its good to know that my mind is going in the right direction. The clear hose is an excellent idea I never even thought about that.
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Post by birdman on Apr 5, 2014 1:05:41 GMT -5
So it worked like a charm. I slightly bent the tabs that attach to the float upward (when holding carburetor upside-down) just a hair to make the line on the float slightly angled up. Now the leak has stopped thank goodness!!! But my original problem of poor performance continues. The problem is that the scoot runs great at only 1/3- 1/2 throttle. All the bogging and slowing down happens at 3/4- full throttle. What do you think? Too rich maybe?
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Post by 90GTVert on Apr 5, 2014 8:00:32 GMT -5
If you have jets around, or once you get them, I'd make some WOT test runs with a few different jets to be sure you've got that dialed in before worrying about any part throttle tuning. I always like to have the main jet right before anything else, other than usually getting it to idle well enough that I can warm it up and do test runs without it dying on me. If it feels the same as before, I'm assuming it's still rich because it should have had lots of fuel before with the float set high.
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Post by birdman on Apr 5, 2014 18:17:02 GMT -5
Yes I agree. I would do my tuning the same way. First is getting the idle straightened out then selecting the right main jet, then the needle adjustment. But I was asking, with my current setup, do you think a 107 main is too rich (my existing setup= everything in the sig line minus the 17.5 carb and the uni, and add the oko 24mm, K&N pleated style intake filter, and intake mani with 3D 6-reed block)?? The idle is a 45 and is doing good. By the way the issue with the floats is solved, there is no more flooding, leaking, or gas peeing out the overflow anymore.
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Post by 90GTVert on Apr 5, 2014 19:03:42 GMT -5
I don't know. I don't really have experience with OKOs. The only OKO I owned was about 8 years ago. Came with a "power pack" but no jets with it. Ended up never even riding with it and using the stock carb.
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Post by birdman on Apr 6, 2014 1:47:30 GMT -5
I don't know. I don't really have experience with OKOs. The only OKO I owned was about 8 years ago. Came with a "power pack" but no jets with it. Ended up never even riding with it and using the stock carb. LOL. OKO carburetors must not be worth the hype. Only the Dio and Dio clone guys swear by them.... But I already bought it in a kit with the intake manifold, cone filter intake, and a throttle cable, so Im gona use it unless it proves to be completely useless when properly tuned. My engine is only a measly 68cc and this carb is a whopping 24mm it is overkill I know but I heard others have used it on thier vertical minarellis with great success. I'm going to get a plethora of main jets, spend a day tuning, and see how good it gets. Maybe I'll have to make some changes to the CVT to suite the carb, or shoot, maybe I can use this as an excuse to get a more powerful BBK lol. But may I ask. Why did you decide to go w/o the OKO and run the stock carb?
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