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Post by eltatertoto on Apr 12, 2014 21:19:31 GMT -5
hello all, i was wondering if its possible to convert from a tubed tire to a tubeless. my problem is my scooter has too much torque. (i think). seems like whenever i go up a steep hill from a start, the next day i come out to a flat tire. every single time, its either the valve stem or the seal between the stem and the tire. ive tried a grommet, ive filed down the hell out of the hole to make sure there arent any burrs, and its butter smooth. always put 38 psi in it too. i have temporarily fixed the issue with a tube that has a stem with a nut on it, but this makes it impossible to fill the tire on the bike, because its straight and has about 1/4" between the cvt case and the stem. its real annoying to take the damn tire off just to add air. my question is, do these cheap chinese wheels seal well enough to go buy a valve stem and go tubeless? if not, are there any ways i can make it air tight? i was thinking some red gasket maker all along the seam. the bead is decent enough to where i think it will hold air. on a side note.... anyone know of any vendors selling 12 or 13 inch wheels? looking to get a bit more top end out of it now that ive got the BBK installed. i feel bad for that little engine screaming so loud at just 45mph. included a picture of the scoot so you can tell what wheels i have.  thanks alot guys, this forum has become a wealth of information to me! |
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Post by Upgrayedd on Apr 12, 2014 21:35:24 GMT -5
Tons of info here, you are right  My rims are different (12 inch, mag) and came tubeless but did not hold pressure very good at all. I used 6 ounces of tire slime in each, they now hold pressure good. In my experiences the slime will help seal up a tire bead, stem, etc.. and small nail holes etc only. IDK what those rims look like on the inside that you have, particularly down the middle. but i do know the slime will seal up a leaky bead or stem with no problems. might be worth a try. They sell those 90 degree angled bolt in metal valve stems for under ten a pair on ebay and they make for an easy hookup, that'll be my next upgrade to mine, for now i still have the cheapo stock stems they came with. |
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Post by moofus02 on Apr 12, 2014 21:37:31 GMT -5
If you have enough power and too many rpm I would up gear.
On the tearing tube problem from too much power (you are joking? ) this is a 4t?
All joking aside if the wheel is turning on the rim (Mark the wheel and tire to verify that is what is going on) you could use a few evenly spacers short metal screws to anchor the tire so it can't slip on the rim. Need to be long enough to go through the wheel and into the bead of the tire but not all the way through so it would hurt the tube. We anchor drag slicks and off road tires like that. I ran a rail dune buggy with 2 ply good year Terri tires at 2.5 lbs and had to screw them down or I would rip a tube every time I dropped the clutch
Sent from my SPH-L720 using proboards
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Post by Upgrayedd on Apr 12, 2014 21:39:52 GMT -5
on the metal valve stems if you end up with them, fyi theres stems with the nut on the inside of the rim, and stems that have the nut screw on the outside of the rim. i've always got the ones with the nut on the outside, due to a horror story that involved the nut coming loose inside the rim and valve stem blowing right out of the rim while going up the road. if the nuts on the outside, its easy to inspect and cant come out of the rim even if the nut loosens.
u may already know about these, i wanted to share the info on the chance you did not.
take care, and good luck finding a solution. i've no info to share about the tubes as i havent dealt with them in 20 years.
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Post by eltatertoto on Apr 12, 2014 22:45:12 GMT -5
well, i replaced it with a double nut setup. one inside and one out. (made it fun to get the tire on without ruining the tube) i would love to redo the gear ratio. any info on how to do that? its got no variator washer. also replaced the weights with performance ones. (cant remember what weight ATM) i included a video of the acceleration. this was on about a 1- 1 1/2 block stretch. www.youtube.com/watch?v=VsPLor8RPJQ&feature=share&list=UUfLw_1xYj4m7ShyqFT00-Ugthanks again! |
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Post by 2TDave on Apr 12, 2014 23:07:09 GMT -5
From my experience working in a bike shop in the past most early tube failures are due to something ( thorn, metal, glass etc. ) still in the tire or the tube being pinched. They don't always blow right away. Make sure you run your hand on the inside of the tire and feel for anything. Some rims will pinch tubes more also. You may want to double up some rim liners or make some from tubes. Inflate slow in steps also.
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Post by 2TDave on Apr 12, 2014 23:08:03 GMT -5
Btw. It's not a torque problem. And welcome aboard.
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Post by eltatertoto on Apr 13, 2014 15:32:57 GMT -5
well, i tried the valve stem route... no luck there. wrapped the rim in electrical tape, then a layer or innertube and a layer of innertube on the inside of the tire secured with some headliner spray adhesive so it wouldn't move while re installing. will post back if it leaks after that!
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Post by towlieee on Apr 15, 2014 8:29:13 GMT -5
Get yourself a rim lock, like what they run on dirt bikes. You'll have to drill a hole in your rim, but this will keep your tire from spinning on the rim. www.motorcycle-superstore.com/32819/i/motion-pro-liteloc-rim-locksI'm not sure if that one will be small enough, I'm trying to find out what size people use on their pit bikes with 10" wheels |
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Post by towlieee on Apr 15, 2014 8:38:50 GMT -5
I agree with other posts however, that it's not the power you are putting down blowing your tubes. If anything, you would have a much better chance of spinning the tire on the rim under hard braking.
Also is your tire getting fully seated equally on the 'bead' of the rim? Put extra pressure in the tire when you mount it, like 40-60psi, then back it off to whatever pressure you like to run. I prefer around 35psi myself
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