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Post by gramstaotao on May 24, 2014 12:20:51 GMT -5
ok cool so should i just tie it around the frame so its facing down towards the ground? ...Also got the new carb and helix hoses hooked up check it out
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Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on May 24, 2014 14:02:07 GMT -5
yup just tie it up so it dont lop and hit omething hot.
the lines look good!
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Post by hawaiigy6moder on May 24, 2014 14:06:37 GMT -5
Ive never had a problem with a bike after removing the PAIR system, infact ive purchased bikes that came with it connected, BUT no port on the head for the PAIR to connect to lol...and it connected to the exhaust. Ive also worked on bikes that had the PAIR system connected to the head but not to the exhaust.... (Alot of Tao-Tao's) I work at a Moped shop in hawaii that sells Tao Taos, and SYM DD50's almost all of the Tao-Tao's we got have the pair system but it is not connected to the exhaust
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Post by 90GTVert on May 24, 2014 14:29:31 GMT -5
They got you straight before I did. That's why I edited your original thread title... we're lucky to have many helpful people here, not just me. A zip tie or two is all you need to deal with that tube. You do not need to remove it, but just in case it's of any use or reassurance for routing, you can see all of the tubes in this vid. www.youtube.com/watch?v=ubUosWJUhM4
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Post by gramstaotao on May 26, 2014 23:27:52 GMT -5
I have not a had a whole lot of time to work anymore on my scooter because of work. I did get it running but it is still not idling and is cutting off shortly after start up. with in the first 5 mins and then it seems to be harder each time it after that. I am gonna my valve adjustment tomorrow, I have seen it done but have never done it myself. I am a little confused on where the fly wheel needs to be set to but I am sure to try my best to figure it out. Thanks for the help, I am happy that even though i am clueless you guys are supportive and take time to help which means a lot. I bought this just as temporary transportation until I could save up for a new vehicle but now with all the work and fun I have had learning how it works and it has grown into something I enjoy and I dont usually have hobbies but I admit this is something I actually enjoy. I bought the scooter not even 3 months ago brand new with intentions on selling it this summer as soon as I got a Truck and now that time is approaching I do not think I am gonna be able to sell it lol. I really hope I can get it going back up to speed. I will post tomorrow and let u guys know how its going.
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Post by Upgrayedd on May 27, 2014 0:52:45 GMT -5
I have not a had a whole lot of time to work anymore on my scooter because of work. I did get it running but it is still not idling and is cutting off shortly after start up. with in the first 5 mins and then it seems to be harder each time it after that. I am gonna my valve adjustment tomorrow, I have seen it done but have never done it myself. I am a little confused on where the fly wheel needs to be set to but I am sure to try my best to figure it out. valve lash adjustment is piece of cake just take your time, do it when the engine is cold, double check your lash after you tighten up the adjustment nut, hook the ground wires back up to the valve cover, and remember to not to overtighten your valve cover bolts. The holes are different size on the big gear on the cam - once you get in there and turn your flywheel to line up those marks, itll show itself to ya real easy. use a wrench on the flywheel and turn it over a time or two, and youll see the valves open and close, and see where it sets with both closed and the big hole in the gear at the top. and youll be able to slide a feeler gauge in both at that point. it is an easy time to check your spark plug too since you're already right there.
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Post by gramstaotao on May 27, 2014 11:31:02 GMT -5
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Post by gramstaotao on May 27, 2014 12:13:44 GMT -5
Readjusted the valves.. i did notice that they are both loose to the tap, dunno if they are supposed to be like that and I know this makes me sound pretty newbish but I am trying to learn so this is the only reason i am asking questions so sorry if they are dumb questions lol
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Post by gramstaotao on May 27, 2014 12:42:43 GMT -5
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Post by hawaiigy6moder on May 27, 2014 13:14:23 GMT -5
Screw In = Lean Mix Screw Out = Richer Mix
Best technique so far from what i understand is, screw all the way in.... Unscrew 2 1/2 revolutions, then adjust in/out till you hear your revs go up
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Post by gramstaotao on May 27, 2014 13:35:00 GMT -5
thnx bro did just what u said and she is running perfect just took her for a 30 min ride and i swear she has not ever been that fast!!! I AM SO HAPPY GUYS THANKS SO MUCH!!!
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Post by gramstaotao on May 27, 2014 13:35:35 GMT -5
Once i get the body repainted and put back on i will post pics when she is done
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Post by hawaiigy6moder on May 28, 2014 1:08:55 GMT -5
thnx bro did just what u said and she is running perfect just took her for a 30 min ride and i swear she has not ever been that fast!!! I AM SO HAPPY GUYS THANKS SO MUCH!!! Were just glad your back on the road! I can wait to see your bike in its painted glory!
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Post by dan50 on May 28, 2014 10:16:41 GMT -5
The 2 1P39QMB's that I own are 9.5:1 compression ratio and 90 octane is recommended by both manufacturers. I run 93 octane premium. For the difference of 10 cents a gallon, it's worth it to make sure your engine doesn't spark knock.
My 2t 1E40QMB is 10.5:1 compression ratio and requires 93 octane premium.
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Post by craisin on May 31, 2014 3:18:03 GMT -5
check this out
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