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Post by tossone on Jul 12, 2014 22:32:19 GMT -5
I looked at my cam and it has the 2 small hole TDC with all the valves up but it looks like they or on the curved part of the cam and not the flat side. My cam has a bunch of holes in it and not the one with just three. When you put the cam in, does the curved part go against the head or the flushed part?
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nightriderrv
Scoot Enthusiast
Never Give Up- Ride all the time !!!!!
Posts: 177
Location: Western mountains Nebo NC
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Post by nightriderrv on Jul 13, 2014 7:50:42 GMT -5
You are setting the flywheel to the "T" mark on the case first correct, if your doing that then if it was running before it will show you the position of the cam now you can be 180 deg off and would have to spin the flywheel one full turn and put it back on the "T" mark, your 2 small holes will be level with the case on the head and a big hole straight up at the top of the cam both valves will be closed. Only one way to put the cam in but the engine has to be at TDC
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Post by tossone on Jul 13, 2014 10:57:08 GMT -5
cool thanks. I had a 69mm valves and rockers originally but when I got the bbk, they gave me 64mm head and rockers. That wouldn't make a difference right? It's a long case engine.
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Post by tossone on Jul 13, 2014 11:04:43 GMT -5
I was thinking of putting in a Naraku 72cc cylinder and piston but I have a big valve head for a 100cc bbk. Do I have to go back to my stock 50cc or can I keep the big one and put the 72cc in? It say's I can use my stock but I would really like to keep the big one.
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Post by tossone on Jul 13, 2014 12:27:34 GMT -5
also if anyone can tell me how to check my oil pump drive for the teeth count. I think it should be 16 but it could be something different
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Post by 90GTVert on Jul 14, 2014 10:49:50 GMT -5
64mm or 69mm should work as long as you have the matching heads and rockers.
You can use the 100cc head, but it's not ideal. With it you'll prob get low compression and the way the head and smaller bore match up wouldn't be good for performance (assuming the "100cc" head is actually 50mm or more combustion chamber size). You get big valves though and I assume better ports. On the other hand the stock head should give a boost in compression, but you won't have the larger ports. Could be too much compression, could work great.
The check the oil pump gear you have to remove the fan shroud, fan, flywheel, and stator. Drain the oil. Then you'd need to remove the engine side cover so you can see the gear and count the teeth. Then you'd need to clean the cover sealing surface and the surface on the engine. Use a new gasket and reinstall the cover and then proceed to install the rest of the things you took off to get to it and of course don't forget to fill it back up with oil.
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Post by tossone on Jul 18, 2014 0:01:36 GMT -5
Wow that's a lot of hassle. The only real problem I think I am having is when I let off the throttle and coast. It slows down pretty fast and I can feel the steady humming vibration likes it winding down. Is that normal or is that because of my variator weights being only 4.5 grams. I looked at the starter bendix and it's kinda worn which may be why I hear a ticking sound in under may trans cover. I have to sometimes give it throttle to start or there is a hesitation after I turn the key. Well one thing at a time. I bought a LeoVince Scoot exhaust cause even though those ebay ones say they are performance, they are still loud. So if I go to the 72cc, you suggest I put my 50cc head back on cause they don't make a 72cc one just the cylinder and piston. If I go with the 100cc, it's Naraku but it's also like 300 bucks for the cylinder and head. Is there any you can suggest that's cheaper but not in quality?
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Post by tossone on Jul 18, 2014 12:53:34 GMT -5
Ok when I let off the throttle, I can feel a strong vibration and it sounds likes the engine is winding down. Shouldn't the cvt stop cause maybe the belt is still spinning while I am slowing down causing the engine to do that?
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Post by tossone on Jul 18, 2014 16:30:09 GMT -5
I opened up the trans cover and there is a ton of black dust. I was noticing when I drove it that going slow under 2500 rpms that when I let off the throttle, it coasted like it should. When I went faster and let up, I got that engine winding down feeling like the clutch was still turning the outer cover to turn the wheel. My springs are 1500 and look ok and the pads on the clutch look new. Maybe a tighter spring would mean the the clutch would disengage when I let up on the throttle faster than the lighter ones. I don't know. My torque spring is also 1500 and weights are 4.5 sliders. I did notice the sliders have black skid marks on the tops.
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Post by 90GTVert on Jul 22, 2014 8:42:10 GMT -5
The CVT usually stays engaged till low speed. The clutch is actually responding to the RPM that the rear pulley spins at, not engine RPM. So if you are going 40MPH and let off, the variator is closed up some and the rear pulley is open so the clutch is spinning very fast and it's not going to disengage. Sometimes with loose spacing in the front, so the belt is totally free at idle/rest, you can get the CVT to free up more when you let off... but many times having it that free doesn't work so well for speed. A stiffer contra could help, but by the time you add heavier rollers to get ther right revs, it may not accomplish much.
Check your belt width and condition since you see so much dust and it wouldn't be a bad idea to clean the whole CVT out to be sure dust isn't hindering operation of anything.
I think you'd be okay with 50mm big bores that are reasonable prices off of eBay. Next step would be to look at Hoca from PFS or other Naraku kits (not the high end 52.4mm) or NCY. Really I think the 47mm bores are best (NCY, Naraku) so you aren't at such high risk of the crank failing quickly.
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