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Post by 90GTVert on Jul 21, 2014 18:38:11 GMT -5
Having to hold the plug to the battery for it to work I would check all cables. There should be fairly large wires tying together batt -, the frame, and the engine. Connection in all places need to be clean and secure. 0 compression is probably a false reading. Redo. Make sure the fitting it secure and that you are holding the throttle wide open. www.youtube.com/watch?v=l_RMl5IIenA
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Bobbe
Scoot Member
Posts: 26
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Post by Bobbe on Jul 22, 2014 7:57:50 GMT -5
I ran a couple of test on compression. And had it tight as it would go. The unit I had was a hood one and had a o-ring to help with seal. If I do the test with just my finger it does not even try to push my finger off. Only a little puuuu around my finger.
But thanks for your reply.
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Post by 90GTVert on Jul 22, 2014 8:09:40 GMT -5
Still don't think 0 is correct. If there's a "puuuu" when it cranks, there's some pressure. At any rate, sounds low. I think going to a big bor eis the way to go. The cost is not that much worse than going with a stock bore, but you should get nice gains in power. Don't forget to order some main jets for the new big bore and you may need to do some CVT tuning (roller/slider weights) as well to work best with the new cylinder.
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Bobbe
Scoot Member
Posts: 26
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Post by Bobbe on Jul 22, 2014 18:50:18 GMT -5
Thank you for your advice I had just about talked myself into big bore kit. Lol. Yes will need jets. Will be looking at later getting new muffler and better air filter. What size jet do you think I would look for.
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Post by 90GTVert on Jul 23, 2014 9:42:25 GMT -5
I always have a selection, because I'm rarely right on where I think I need to be with jet size. PFS sells a kit for roughly $15 with a wide selection. Till the end of July code MURICA for 10% off. Should be Mikuni VM11/22 mains if you wanna look for them elsewhere.
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Bobbe
Scoot Member
Posts: 26
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Post by Bobbe on Jul 23, 2014 10:33:35 GMT -5
Well today I took the engine apart. What a mess it was in. During the process of taking it apart I found out why the engine failed and it was not it's fault. I feel like a dumb a** I put the wrong hose on were the oil line was support to go, so engine was not getting oil. No wander the piston looks like a chain saw as used on it. I am still learning this 2 stroke engine technology. So now to get a big bore kit and carb jets with what I can afford right now. There is so many kits out there and some do not show the needle bearing others jump high in price.
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Post by 90GTVert on Jul 23, 2014 10:48:38 GMT -5
A lot of them don't include the needle bearing. For a reasonably priced kit that's decent quality, if you want a sport/street type, check out Autotech355 on eBay. He's good about including needle bearing and exhaust studs with his usually. Down side is it's from Taiwan so it won't be as quick getting here as some US sellers may be.
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Bobbe
Scoot Member
Posts: 26
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Post by Bobbe on Jul 26, 2014 14:36:13 GMT -5
Well I am back. Need some more advice. Put the engine back together, making sure the arrow on piston was pointed down. Got a torge wrenk tigten head bolts to 15 foot lbs. Got all the other components on. Tried to start it, it hit a couple times or sounded like it. Took plug back out looked at it did not see any gas on it. Checked for spark and had good spark. Used the carb drain to check if the carb was getting fuel. Had good flow there. Waiting for battery to recharge and will try again. Any advice on what to check next if no start.
OK read some more on hear of others who had starting problems on first start after rebuild of taking the air breather of and cover it with you hand. Got gas on my hand and when I pulled the plug it had gas on it. Still no go so got another plug put it in and still no start.
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Post by 90GTVert on Jul 26, 2014 15:39:33 GMT -5
Hold your hand over the mouth of the carb and open the throttle and see if it fires up. Put the airbox back if it does.
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Bobbe
Scoot Member
Posts: 26
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Post by Bobbe on Jul 26, 2014 15:41:25 GMT -5
Tried that no go thanks though
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Post by 90GTVert on Jul 26, 2014 15:49:39 GMT -5
Did you check the ring end gaps on the new kit? Feel like it's got compression or do you have a new reading?
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Bobbe
Scoot Member
Posts: 26
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Post by Bobbe on Jul 26, 2014 16:24:46 GMT -5
While I had the plug out I put my finger in and hit the starter had a lot of compression. Blow my finger of of plug hole.
Update after changing plug with one that was working good when I took it out I open the thottle wide open and smeld gas so carb is now for sure sending gas in
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Bobbe
Scoot Member
Posts: 26
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Post by Bobbe on Jul 26, 2014 17:43:02 GMT -5
Another question, while cranking over should there not be air coming out exhaust. For when I crank it over there is not air coming out even if I put my hand over it.
Added question can the timing get off from a soft seze
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Post by 90GTVert on Jul 27, 2014 15:31:23 GMT -5
There should be air coming through the exhaust. You should be able to feel a pulse there when cranking. Perhaps your exhaust is clogged.
A soft seize should not change the timing.
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Bobbe
Scoot Member
Posts: 26
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Post by Bobbe on Jul 28, 2014 19:21:42 GMT -5
Well it took some work but after a 70cc big bore kit I have it running but only with the muffler off. Will now have to buy one of those.
Want to say thanks for all help I have received here.
I do need to ask how long in run time should it take for the oil pump to pick up and start pumping oil to the carb. I put a new mostly see though hose and in the short time I let it run there was no oil in the hose from pump.
Also is it save to run it with the muffler cut off and just a little over a foot of pipe.
Again thanks all for the help.
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