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Post by Deleted on Sept 2, 2014 13:45:56 GMT -5
My headlight isn't working, the running lights are. I tested using a test light at the headlight bulb socket, and there's no current coming in. I have a 2 wire clip that's not connected to anything. It is wired up to the battery (green negative, brown positive), and not a light or gauge etc. I have pulled apart some of the tape to figure out what I'm looking at, and as far as I can tell, the headlight should be working with no problems. But it's not, and I've still got this disconnected clip. There's 2 other clips that are basically identical, they both go to the turn signals. I'm starting to think that maybe it's just an extra clip for optional accessories, but the headlight isn't working, so..
If anybody could pull off that front panel below the headlight assembly and above the turn signals and send me some pictures, I think it might help.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 2, 2014 14:32:46 GMT -5
So, with my test light at the headlight socket, there are 3 wires, green, blue, and white.
With the test light connected to the positive battery terminal and the key on, the green lights up, which is normal, because green is ground right? It also lights up on the white wire, weird.. this wire should have a positive connection right? The blue wire also lights up positive. I'm thinking there is a short somewhere, but wouldn't that cause the fuse to burn out?? None of the wires from the socket light up when the test light is connected to the negative side of the battery.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 2, 2014 14:38:32 GMT -5
The blue and white wires go to the high/low beam switch. There's also a yellow wire connected to the switch. Based on logic here, you would think the yellow wire should be positive, but it's negative and lights up when my test light is connected to the positive battery terminal.
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Post by stevec on Sept 2, 2014 14:51:59 GMT -5
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Post by Deleted on Sept 2, 2014 15:15:51 GMT -5
I found this in the tech library. s259.photobucket.com/user/turbostang331/media/mydiagrams/LightChargeDiagram.jpg.htmlApparently when the engine is running, the yellow wire turns from negative to positive. And the same goes for the white and blue wires, so the headlight works while the scooter is running. Now I'm still trying to figure out why my starter isn't working, which is why I started taking things apart in the first place. Sometimes I have to turn the wheel to get it to kick over. Now it's not working at all. The reason I was looking for a picture instead of a diagram is because I was looking for the physical location of the clip itself. The diagrams do nothing for me in that aspect. It still doesn't tell me what the extra clip does. |
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Post by 90GTVert on Sept 2, 2014 15:37:34 GMT -5
It's not uncommon for Chinese scooters to have unused connectors. Mine had 2 bare wires coming out of the harness stock. Real quality stuff. The connectors are pretty generic. Most 2 prong connectors are the same throughout the scoot, with just male and female variations so they can connect, so the only thing that will look any diff is the wire color or if it's M/F. Is the connector up by the headlights or elsewhere? Can you describe the starting issue in any more detail... like is it not trying to e-start at all or what? Here's some starting info that may be helpful : 49ccscoot.proboards.com/thread/647/start-troubleshooting?page=1 |
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Post by Deleted on Sept 2, 2014 15:43:22 GMT -5
It's up under the front panel. I'm pretty sure it does nothing, extra connector. Might be useful for mods.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 2, 2014 15:51:04 GMT -5
So moving on to the starter issue... Maybe I should start a new thread for this.. but, there's 2 wires on the switch. One is yellow/red, the other is green/white. At the solenoid towards the starter, there's positive, negative, and then there's yellow/red yellow/green that runs up to the front cluster.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 2, 2014 16:02:56 GMT -5
the yellow/green yellow/red connect to a clip, not far from the solenoid
Yellow/green = green/white
Yellow/red = yellow/red
With the left(Starter) brake held down, and the starter switch pressed, the green/yellow wire that goes up to the cluster is negative when the key is off, and positive when the key is on. The yellow/red does nothing regardless of any of these variables or when the starter switch is pressed.
Jumping the positive and negative on the solenoid causes the starter to kick. Which tells me the starter is fine.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 2, 2014 16:06:43 GMT -5
I connected a pair of test wires to the yellow/green and yellow/red and touched them to the battery. That causes the starter to kick over so the solenoid is working fine. Yellow/red leading up from that clip and to the cluster has to be the problem.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 2, 2014 16:14:15 GMT -5
Removing the clip from the starter switch, the test light shows me they are both negative, even with the ignition off and no brake, and with the connector at the solenoid connected or disconnected, they're both negative regardless.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 2, 2014 16:21:33 GMT -5
I found another mystery clip. This one is green (negative) and black/white
It's between the solenoid and the battery.
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Post by 90GTVert on Sept 3, 2014 14:37:22 GMT -5
If you put one probe from a multimeter on each on the two small wires at the relay, you should fine that you have 12V when the brake levers are held and the starter button is pressed.
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