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Post by ThaiGyro on Mar 16, 2023 19:25:26 GMT -5
Hey silver03...is there a reason you wish to keep the original oil injection? In my world, that is the first and likely most important performance killer to eliminate. They simply suck even on a new scoot. Best test is to block it off and go directly to a "pre-mix" of gas and oil...this will ensure that your mixture has a better consistency.
Many articles here and on other sites. Total tune-ability.
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Post by ThaiGyro on Nov 20, 2022 16:52:21 GMT -5
Hi all...yes! Beam would be correct. I was always wired on adrenaline, but beaming from ear to beer. Here is my 3/8" drive beamer: That one is a cheap-o, but has worked well for many years. Importantly, should be used in a very tight temperature range...like 65 F. to 80 F. (18 C. to 26 C.) I have two 1/2" drive torque wrenches. A clicker and a dial type. The dial one is 'da-shite, if you need accuracy in larger foot pounds/Newton meters. The clicker is easy and great for lugs nutz and gross values that need be similar. The dial? I use for smashing head to block connections on higher compression engines. (Smashing expensive, but sensitive head gaskets)...It is a 1960's vintage Snap-on, fully calibratable (word?) wrench. Clicker: Dial: With a "beam" wrench, it is important to maintain the handle in "neutral"...the extended shank centered, not touching the sides to create an even pull when torqueing. Note that clickers are mostly ratchet heads. Worn heads mean lessening/variable torque values. AT least when you get to my age. The big question is what do you check any of them with and how? Lastly, small torque values, like our beloved heads and case bolts? My version of that torque wrench is years of practice with wrenches and sockets with successes, and an occasional failure. For newbies, under torque and fix the leaks...or over torque and grow money on trees.
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Post by ThaiGyro on Nov 19, 2022 20:14:22 GMT -5
Hi...Sorry for the late response. It is fffffff-ark-kkkk-ing cold here. When the shop warms up tomorrow, I will do a side-by-side picture. Assuming that I remember. Just completed a wiring project...that sucked.
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Post by ThaiGyro on Nov 6, 2022 16:21:52 GMT -5
Hey all, not contributed much lately...but I love to open worm cans.
I have quite a few torque wrenches. Clickers, dials and wires...since captincvman showed his, I decided to offer this: My most inaccurate torque wrenches are "clickers". From day one of use, they get more and more inaccurate. Maybe slow, if use is low. Dial wrenches hold up well over time, but not easily calibrated. Wire indicators are easily calibrated and much more accurate - if one assumes the correct torque range.
I have 4 or 5 ranges of indication. Old Dayton's, a few Snap-Ons, and some no names.
In my racing days on old two pokes...I used an inch pound wire bender. Never had a strip out, occasionally had a leaker. The hard part of wire type is being in position to read it straight on, which is important.
The bottom line for me? For street, under torque a bit, heat and re-torque, as offered in prior contributions. Head bolts and case bolts are problems for different reasons. This is my serious thought path...Steel is harder than aluminum/aluminium/pot metal/magnesium...bolts are cheap, cases are not. The steel will flock up the softer case materials.
Case bolts or often made of dog-doo metal, but with no consistency. Use the same caution. The base metal is rarely harder than the fasteners...though it should be! Even stainless steel threaded into mild steel will make shit happen. SO...sneak up on torques with proper patterns and good torque indicating wrenches.
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Post by ThaiGyro on Mar 30, 2022 9:51:19 GMT -5
Hi Repherence2...my old TA125 had both OEM Yamaha pipes and a few sets of center/bottom bleeders. The set that worked the best, had a convergent cone that tapered down to a reversing "cap" at the back end that was just slightly larger than the stinger ID. If I recall correctly, each pipe, (It was a twin) had the stingers at the bottom, but NOT centered in the belly. It was moved slight aft of center, toward the convergent cone. Mine curved to the rear and had small mufflers welded on. (Serviceable, via removable end caps) That was a TA engine with Lectron carbs and the center bleeds that made ~30 h.p. Power came on at 9500 rpm, but could do 14,000. A factory stock TA was 24 h.p.; power on the pipe at 8000 to 12,500. (We had to rebuild our cranks every three races.)
Much like the picture above!
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Post by ThaiGyro on Mar 17, 2022 17:46:51 GMT -5
My experiences are more race bikes than street...so everything that Brent stated works. My OEM sort of stock Honda Gyro ran best with a 17.5 carb...but with a bit-of-pipe and good ignition that little 50 could run a 19 at varied altitudes with little fuss.
That meaning...I will always run a slight bigger carb over a smaller, if ideal one. I think this way: Jets are controlling fuel transitions mostly... More air is always easier to tune with than borderline to not enough.
My old mentor would say, [Think of carb tuning as painting a car. Your spray is in a three foot arc, but your target is flat. As you make a pass, the middle section will have better coverage than the extremes.] In scooter tuning that middle is your overall range...but you must fine tune the top and bottom.
Air flow is not flat. Go big and tune to great...or start small and reach a limit? Either can work. It is just money. It is your future goals/budget that should matter most.
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Post by ThaiGyro on Mar 17, 2022 17:12:20 GMT -5
The diagram and photo tell me that this fork design has no fluid...The fact that it has a balk ring, (Baulk ring for some)on both the top and bottom is limiting the springs...stopping them, actually. (Bottom is sort of non-adjustable pre-load, top is a damping limiter) Old school common in small dirt bikes and some scooters. The lower being initial load, static load...the upper being the road load. Your diagram above shows something interesting...the lower fork tube shows a groove, or maybe a seal? That would make sense since it rides inside the upper. If that is an o-ring on the lower fork tube, that might be kind of fun. That means it is supposed to trap air as a static compression damper. Air squished between there and the cap. That is where I would play! Certainly, you can freshen up all seals, find a high quality grease that works best at your local temperatures. Measure all four springs so you can balance them side to side or find replacements. Lastly, for now...use the gravity sag method when you reassemble. That is, hang the forks in equal heights before installing the cartridge nuts. This should help balance the air inside. Could be too much! Too stiff or seals blow out easy. However, that should be cheap to figure out. (Your shop manual should cover this) If you can fab up an air release in those caps, you can fine tune to your weight, style and such with out disassembly.
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Post by ThaiGyro on Mar 17, 2022 16:33:18 GMT -5
Welcome Antonio! I am old enough to recall the older Garelli's looked like Suzuki dirt bikes...then some like Honda endurance or Yamaha's. Those would have been a big hit in Thailand!
Have fun here!! Who is your favorite futbol team?
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Post by ThaiGyro on Jan 9, 2022 0:32:50 GMT -5
Not sure if it helps, but my short experience with more modern poop is limited. However, I have seen many, many 2T engines/ignitions with a GREY wire as a tach lead.
Some aftermarket tach's can condition that "pulse" and some cannot. The pulse can be different in both frequency and some other measure...brain farting.
The method that 90GTvert mentions above, is known as an inductive tachometer. Quite accurate, but the gauges are either ugly and cheap or expensive and cute.
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Post by ThaiGyro on Jan 9, 2022 0:10:38 GMT -5
808...(I have had mini-strokes); My experience with reeds and reed blocks is quite long. Not to say great... In the 70's, we used OEM Yamaha and Honda stainless reeds, but tended to modify the block thickness to increase/decrease case volume a tiny bit. Reed efficiency was only made better by "honing" a reed by hand to give an "early" or later bend curve. That was a hyper tune to match, uhhh, the overall tune of the engine. Ignition timing, chamber scavenge, and rpm curves...Haha, EASY? As far as your issues with breaking? Stainless is always more reliable. Carbon fiber seems like new joo-joo magic, but you must remember...those fibers are bonded in epoxy. Plastic! Easy to form and engineer for initial use. No bueno for reliability. Edges crack without good overlap of the cage. Actually, they crack earlier than stainless any way. The answer? Replace often and/or buy cheaper stainless reeds and learn to massage them. It is not an easy art form, but it can make POWAAAA! I think it is like heat cycles in a road race tire. Break in a bit, get it on for a while then get fresh ones. No easy answer. Heat cycles and bending exercises. Better when young.
I have hours of potential conversation material, if you dare...great untapped subject!
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Post by ThaiGyro on Dec 10, 2021 22:34:42 GMT -5
Sorry dandeman, but your question is quite vague. Thus, few can give you a proper answer.
A plus 2.2 ? Over what? I have a chart with near 40 different bore and stroke combo's...that is just 49 to 70cc and only my own work.
What engine? What scooter? What year? What was the OEM specs? Or, what is your current spec?
What is a stroker crank? (I am not young and believe that (EX): "3/4 race cams" are shit...for dumb PPL with too much $$) HINT: stroker is just a word! What does that mean?
So, just need for you to give as much detail as you can! Many good brains and experiences here, yet no crystal balls...just balls, and other fun gender parts.
I apologize if that is a bit harsh...but, your question is just way too vague.
(BTW...waste is the proper word for careless, no longer needed, or weakened. "Waist" is space between your ribs and hips.)
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Post by ThaiGyro on Oct 26, 2021 14:48:20 GMT -5
My first guess would be your ignition pick up. Usually a Hall effect coil/sensor located in your alternator cover. Should have a pickup coil and a rotating trigger. The coils go bad from heat, over time. If it is bad...no saving it. Easy to replace. I keep spares, even from trashed engines, if they work still. Truth be told, I often buy old motorcycles, scooters and now a jet ski, with just that problem and often only that. The owners get bad advice from less trustworthy mechanics. They see big bills and dump the lump. Hopefully that is all you need.
P.S. - also called a crank trigger or similar sounding pick up....it feeds a signal to your CDI box.
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Post by ThaiGyro on Oct 16, 2021 14:47:19 GMT -5
I agree with the boys above regarding any SKF offering. The India thing seems a bit random or the person who claimed that got the info from who knows?
SKF has an unbelievable high quality control standard and rarely is there much deviation at their many, many, many plants. India built? Sure!! They have 5 or 6 different plants in India. A bearing gone bad from a manufacturing defect, while possible...maybe, but highly unlikely, me thinks. I believe that hey would have made good on that, if put forth.
Whilst in Thailand, we used them almost exclusively for motorcycle and scooters. Some were from their Thai plant in Rayong, but most came from India. (The SKF Rayong, Thailand plant primarily supported the motorcycle and cars plants in Southern Thailand, but also Suzuki and Honda in the greater Bangkok area.)
Thailand used to have shortages of bearings and other parts, during high production years, so the overflow was from India or China SKF. We did often buy ABEC 4 or 5 stuff from them or Lily, depending on cost.
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Post by ThaiGyro on Sept 28, 2021 17:52:42 GMT -5
Thanks all! FrankenMech...I am thinking that the way this power plant in engineered is uber-simple, thus the mild advance? Idle to 6000 rpm seems a good range for my Suzuki Sidekick.
190mech...same thoughts. Flat and quick off the line.
snaker...thank you for the reference. I have had a few sno-blowers, but I was young and not tuned...in...that might be a good place to look.
woodini...see below:
For more project fun---I am planning on maxing out this engine with the "improved" impeller. OK, OK...it is fun for a 65 year old, but it ain't shite, really. Thus, I will ignition tune, then carb tune, then hull, (kinda like CVT tuning+handling, but not really)
After that? I am converting this from a jet pump to a surface drive. Yes! I have enough cahones left to test a 30-40 h.p. with a REAL prop setup. My 40 mph, (wind aided) WaveDoggy should be capable of 60 or more mph. (70??)
That is the real reason for thinking ignition timing. I need to keep the low end torque and then figure out the "power-on-the pipe" thang...Because? A jet ski does not need to wheelie. It must...just...thrust and behave like a scalded ass APE!
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Post by ThaiGyro on Sept 20, 2021 14:34:14 GMT -5
Haha! After so many years of tuning and testing, I have a problem and need some guidance.
I recently picked up an '89 Yamaha Wave Runner. It is a 500cc 2T twin that looks like leftover TZ 500 cylinders, except it is super de-tuned to 32 h.p. Some of that is exhaust, which I am NOT going to mess with for now. (other than cleaning)
In looking at parts and tuning, I have found nothing wrong. As third owner, this thing has near new compression and runs super good. That said, it is a curious setup. Though I did get some good spares with it, I have seen some stories about CDI box failures. No big deal...except Yamaha, (Hitachi) does not build them any longer.
The big issue is having a spare or maybe even a better CDI without rev limiter, so I can do some testing. (OEM is set about 6050 rpm+/-) My new impeller can handle that and a bit more, so PLAY TIME!
My search (and therefore problem) has turned over something strange. The PWC forums have suggested to use GY6 ignitions...$15 instead of $300 for a used OEM CDI. First off, I have never used a 4T ignition on a 2T, because it was not even a close match. However, this engine is very much not a monster, so I am looking closer. They are a wasted spark setup, thus fire every rotation.
Does anyone know the approximate timing curve of a typical GY6? The stock Hitachi spec sheet is quite pathetic...1 degree BTDC at 1000 rpm, 7.5-8 at 3000, 12-15 at 5000. The PWC forum info is all old, like 2013 to '15....however the GY6 CDI's are all over Amazon/eBay.
Wet butt dyno, here we come.
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