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Post by pitobread on Jul 22, 2020 15:48:47 GMT -5
You want air to go from high pressure to low pressure.
If you give a path of least resistance between the frontal area and the rads the air will choose the least resistance every time. Duct and 2 sided foam tape and seal your rads so all the air passing goes thru and not around. You will see temps decrease significantly
Story time.
My buddy had a TE72 Toyota Corolla with a 4AGTE (GZE converted bottom end) as a drift car, he often complained after hot lapping it drifting coolant temps would climb to an uncomfortable level as the car is sideways and air flow thru the rad is not as good with a sideways car.
One morning before an event I went out to the garage and took a cardboard box and cut it up and used packing and duct tape to seal the rad to the front rad support and sealed all the holes in the rad support as well.
It worked so well, temps dropped and that cardboard stayed on there in some variant till he swapped in an SR and did a V mount.
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Post by pitobread on Jul 20, 2020 19:35:54 GMT -5
Honestly, fixing a chinese lathe to work good is the best way to learn how to use a lathe.
It's cheap experience in the grand scheme of things.
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Post by pitobread on Jul 17, 2020 8:00:42 GMT -5
Yeah man.
My only thing I think I would have done differently is make it so the shaft would be thicker till it got to the pulley so it could run up against something, but I assume that was done because you don't really know where the pulley has to ride yet.
Other than that you prevailed and learned some useful stuff!
Fun fact, you can use the jaws of the chuck to do indexing for hex, if you make up a bar to rest the flat on the side you have 3 indexes 120 degrees apart, switch it to the other side and you have the 180 flats.
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Post by pitobread on Jul 16, 2020 10:54:35 GMT -5
Yes those are wild. Very, very rare here in Canada.
Pop up from time to time.
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Post by pitobread on Jul 16, 2020 10:04:45 GMT -5
Uh, that is about 50mph
With a frontal area that big i'm sure this thing could be used as an air brake on an a320.
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Post by pitobread on Jul 16, 2020 9:35:26 GMT -5
People make stuff up all the time. There were no twin cylinder beats.
Also at 7hp I couldn't see this making it much past 75-80kph.
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Post by pitobread on Jul 14, 2020 18:24:46 GMT -5
3d printed plug is niiice. I will have to do that myself. Also I accidentally bought this the other day link
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Post by pitobread on Jul 14, 2020 18:11:23 GMT -5
Its for sure not ideal using a thread for precision locating. I think it could work, but without getting the pitch diameter damn near perfect it's always gonna wiggle a bit and even "perfect" would still have a bit of runout.
maybe make a mounted spigot that bolts to the face of the MVT rotor?
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Post by pitobread on Jul 14, 2020 17:40:53 GMT -5
These honda's if you loose the prime of the fuel pump can be an absolute bugger to get running again
If you can kick it, and choke the carburetor manually with your hand over the air filter side it helps prime the fuel pump quicker. Or you can pour some fuel in the carburetor from a squirt bottle to try and prime it to run for a second so the fuel pump primes.
No idea on the electric start issue, upload a video to youtube so we can see?
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Post by pitobread on Jul 14, 2020 17:33:33 GMT -5
What a great time to learn to thread! Tho internal is definitely more challenging, especially up to a shoulder.
Or get some H2 or H1 CNC taps.
I think you are up against clearance. No matter how much you mess with the tap or alignment you have .005 of clearance + error and its always compounding error. Dumb Luck is the only factor that will get you better than that.
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Post by pitobread on Jul 14, 2020 11:26:29 GMT -5
I need to know why the key is bolted to the engine.
Also grind down that chrome really good outside, Welding/heating chrome is pretty bad for your health, lots of heavy metals that stay in your system.
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Post by pitobread on Jul 14, 2020 11:06:13 GMT -5
No, I mean the best way is to turn a lump in the headstock with a taper then use a precision ground test bar in between the centers and dial end to end.
this method is more than close enough, plus on a mini lathe the amount of deflection you would get would make most measurements of such taper pretty hard to control regularly.
However for .0002 per inch that is in not enough to ever loose sleep territory. your trying to make a hole .750" deep, that's like .0001 taper over that distance.
i mean if you were turning a full 10" long diameter, maybe try screwing with it more but you are more than acceptable, in the video it looked like his was .2" out or more. That would definitely screw with everything.
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Post by pitobread on Jul 14, 2020 9:17:20 GMT -5
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Post by pitobread on Jul 14, 2020 0:35:58 GMT -5
the tap in the tailstock works well, run a little drag on it and choke up on the tap.
It will run as true as the tailstock is to the headstock!
Is your adjustable? can you center it? is it out?
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Post by pitobread on Jul 11, 2020 13:33:47 GMT -5
Neat, I traded a bike for one of these the other day. I kinda wanna do it up in 82 honda race livery and put a bunch of random parts on it to make it quick/useless.
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