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Post by tsimi on Dec 10, 2014 8:33:13 GMT -5
Just read somewhere that 2 strokes have the habit to clog the exhaust with oil. 1. How can i find out if my exhaust is clogged? 2. Could this be a reason for the power loss uphill? 3. If yes how to unclog it? Don't know if you can see it but look, those idiots put a cap on the mixture screw!  And that cap is nearly impossible to remove without removing the whole carb. |
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Post by 90GTVert on Dec 10, 2014 9:29:30 GMT -5
Take the pipe off and blow through it and you can tell if there's a major clog. Plugging one end of the pipe and filling it with a caustic soda solution and letting it sit overnight is a popular method for cleaning out pipes. Drain and run water through it to clean it out and you can bang on the pipe with a rubber mallet to try and break up leftover carbon and gunk.
Hills are tough on small engined scoots and if you hit the hill and drop out of the powerband it's really bad. It may be that you need lighter weights or a stiffer contra spring to keep the revs up if you are going to be doing much hill climbing.
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Post by tsimi on Dec 10, 2014 9:41:48 GMT -5
Thanks Brent 90GTVert! I will remove the Exhaust and see if i can blow some air through it. Regarding the hill story, it used to be absolutely fine few days ago. I had good response and acceleration and steady speed with my small 50cc scoot. RPM was around 7000-7500 and speeds around 50-55 km/h. I was really happy with it but as always depending on the day it runs fine or like today not so fine. I guess i will have to replace part by part as soon my wallet allows it and see how the scoot responds to it. Currently i have the yellow torque spring installed, which here in Japan is a 3% UP (i guess 3% stiffer then stock?) and i was thinking of getting a red torque spring which is 10% UP. See how that goes. Tried already lighter rollers but that conflicts with the stiffer torque spring. Currently 6x 5.5g is the lightest i can go. Just took apart the Vario before, cleaned it and reassembled it. Let's see what tomorrow brings. Thanks again for your reliable help. Btw. you don't plan to come to Japan anytime soon?  I would love to give you my scoot for adjusting. Oh and one more thing, i saw your thread where you installed a BBK from Polini to a Minarelli and you used a torque wrench to close the Cylinder head. Can this be done without a torque wrench? |
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Post by 90GTVert on Dec 10, 2014 9:49:36 GMT -5
Sorry, I can barely afford gas to ride around here, let alone across the US, and I don't think the TaoTao and I will fare well crossing the ocean on a raft. lol
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Post by tsimi on Dec 10, 2014 9:54:39 GMT -5
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Post by 90GTVert on Dec 10, 2014 10:03:36 GMT -5
Yeah. I've been using a small ratchet and feel to tighten them lately myself since my torque wrench got out of whack and I broke the threads in a couple of cases thanks to that. I like a good working torque wrench because it applies even torque on all 4 fasteners and I don't have to guess at how it's tightened if the wrench is calibrated regularly, but as long as you understand that 10-15ft-lbs is not a lot of torque so you shouldn't be cranking on the ratchet too hard, you'll be alright. Avoid long ratchets that give you a lot of leverage, because they make it harder to tell how much force you're applying.
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Post by Clank on Dec 10, 2014 15:26:23 GMT -5
Sorry, I can barely afford gas to ride around here, let alone across the US, and I don't think the TaoTao and I will fare well crossing the ocean on a raft. lol Come on Brent! You could be a world record setter with a world wide support backing you. :riding: |
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Post by tsimi on Dec 11, 2014 6:49:02 GMT -5
Quick question regarding the Variator. I just saw this Video by 90GTVert youtu.be/2EjW-iSP-Q8and Brent says that the washer next to the drive boss is a restrictor that prevents the Variator halfs to close fully and therefore prevent best top speed. My 2003 Jog has ramp plate -> rear half with rollers -> boss -> 1mm think washer -> front face -> star shaped washer (that goes inside the front face) -> kick start thing -> -> big thick washer -> nut (17mm) When i remove the washer that comes after the drive boss the kick start thing is "i think almost" flush with the crank shaft threads. I recall to have read somewhere here in the forum that it has to be inset or flush. Offset would be fatal. Just to be sure i that it stays inset can i put a washer "behind" the ramp plate? (between starter thing and ramp plate) |
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Post by 90GTVert on Dec 11, 2014 10:01:48 GMT -5
The easy solution to keep the spacing right is to simply move that 1mm washer to the other side of the variator fan/fixed half or behind the ramp plate can work.  The stock spacer can be a restrictor, but sometimes it's more helpful than harmful. If the washer is larger than the drive boss, it can be shaved down to the same OD as the drive boss so it doesn't limit travel. Actual spacing that works best depends on the exact setup and belt width so I try with and without and go with whatever gives the results I like best. 49ccscoot.proboards.com/post/60661/thread |
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Post by tsimi on Dec 11, 2014 10:31:27 GMT -5
90GTVertThank you so much Brent! I was thinking to complex, putting the washer in front of the front face is perfect. That way i don't have to remove the whole Variator, perfect! Sometimes things are easier then they seem.
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Post by 54cc on Dec 11, 2014 11:42:44 GMT -5
Just read somewhere that 2 strokes have the habit to clog the exhaust with oil. 1. How can i find out if my exhaust is clogged? 2. Could this be a reason for the power loss uphill? 3. If yes how to unclog it? Here is a pic from my exhaust (rear view).  Oh and something else, when is was setting my carb yesterday look what i found.  Don't know if you can see it but look, those idiots put a cap on the mixture screw! And that cap is nearly impossible to remove without removing the whole carb. you sure that cap is a cap? the mixture and idle screw are together on the same side on most oem carbs. if you got 2 screws on the other side them are your idle and mix screws . they make carbs like that cause they make screws for both sides, then the side they dont use on 1, theyll cap it. if you pull it off youll probably have a leak. then you probably have to look at it andmake sure nothigns in it, then jb weld it back on. 2 screws on the other side, are your idle an mix and i dont see any other screws on there. |
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Post by tsimi on Dec 11, 2014 17:44:25 GMT -5
54ccyeah I'm sure it is a cap and behind it is the mixture screw (in Japanese called air screw) here is an image of the carbs diagram from the official Yamaha website. #17 (screw + spring) is the idle screw, the one i touched few days ago to raise my RPM a tiny bit. And then there is #11 and the cap #33 which are the mixture screw plus the cap that tou can see on my picture. Both #17 and #11 are on the same side of the carb. Since we are talking about carbs. Why is it so hard to start the scoot once you changed the main jet? Every time i empty the bowl under and change the main jet i have to kick start it over 30 times before the scoot comes back to life. Should i fill the carbs bowl with gasoline again before closing it? or is that just normal?
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Post by 54cc on Dec 11, 2014 18:35:26 GMT -5
i aint gonan answer that question since i dont nkow nothing about it. unless youve seen a better not cut off diagram, im going to disagree, and that carb looks to be the backside of it. but hey i dont got one of those bikes.
the float in yoru carb, you know that? the float, its like a toilet, its not full, the float isnt up to the top and it still fills until it reaches the top. same on teh carb. like a toilet wont flush a carb wont really run that ggreat until its full.
i dont know how to operate an electronic pump to fill it up with gas. a vacuum one witha vavle, you can take the vacuum hose off, and give it a little suction, and itll open the vacuum operated fuel valve and fill the bowl up. i got clear fuel lines and watch when mine is empty of air bubbles.
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Post by tsimi on Dec 11, 2014 18:58:55 GMT -5
The diagram is cut because i zoomed in to show the details.
Yamaha japan released a app for mobile phones.
Go to google play and search for yamaha parts
Install it and select the most top field.
Then you will see a bunch of input fields to search for a bike by name or number.
In the first two input fields type the following number.
First input field: SA16J
Second input field 302395
That should bring up my scooter. Click on it and you should be able to see all diagrams.
Choose the carb diagram.
You gotta love yamaha for this parts feature.
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Post by 54cc on Dec 11, 2014 19:34:28 GMT -5
i dont sign into google when i search the internet. and ive seen a yamaha like carb before. thats just why i said that. i dont see both screws, and it looks in a weird place. i can see a diagram, but not much, else. that should be the easily accessible area if its the mix and throttle rpm screw. the reason its called mix is you mix, fuel and air. the air comes from one and fuel from the other. it can be fuel or air. the screw adjusts one or the other. thats why i call it mix. mixing, fuel and air. air and fuel.
other, should be pulling on your throttle slide as you tighten it, i think, anyway. pulling it up and out of the throat of the venturi on the carb. before you go removing caps, just check. if you havent got one. ..
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