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Post by Fox on Apr 2, 2015 22:04:56 GMT -5
Only thing I can think of that it might be is an air leak or low compression.
Does it fire up easy if you kick start it?
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Post by lonewolfncubs on Apr 2, 2015 22:08:20 GMT -5
Sorry kick starter doesn't work , I'm trying to drill out the broken bolt that's stuck in there
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Post by niz76 on Apr 2, 2015 23:02:56 GMT -5
Sounds like the air/fuel screw might be set too lean...
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Post by runningbuck on Apr 3, 2015 8:32:48 GMT -5
ok not sure but one of my scoots I try to start with electric starter and use the kick starter at the same time to get it to start if not it don't like to start but after it has run for a bit it will start as long as it doesn't cool off too much but it does idol a tad low as for the float check if it runs fine then I doubt its off. I would check the fuel bowl drain it sound like it might be leaking emptying the bowl then you have to prime the bowl to get the engine to start ( start the bike let it run for a few then turn it off and inspect the drain hose check for drips or wetness let it sit for a few and recheck)if it's bad replace it you might have to inspect the fuel bowl as it's cheep stuff it may be cracked and leaking also it's just things to check
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Post by Florida Antique on Apr 3, 2015 13:12:32 GMT -5
Are you pulling the manual choke/enrichener lever when you cold start? Also without a snorkel, these will be really hard to start since too much air will be pulled into the carburetor.
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Post by lonewolfncubs on Apr 5, 2015 23:38:14 GMT -5
Ok I have a few questions just to make sure things are correct
Since I have a two stroke, am I suppose to mix the gas with the two stroke oil? There is a separate section in the tank that I'm assume is where the two stroke oil is suppose to be at.
I used starter fluids and attempted to start the scoot up twice, one spraying the starter fluid BEFORE starting the scoot, once starting the scoot and spraying the starter fluid in the carb at the same time, both did not start or even hinted to start.
If you remove the head and the piston, I can see a lot of oil where I'm assuming is the crankshaft area, is that normal?
Piston came with two rings, does it matter if the rings are place in certain piston groove?
Am I suppose to put any rtv or some sort of sealant around the new gasket?
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Post by 90GTVert on Apr 6, 2015 7:53:59 GMT -5
There should be a reservoir somewhere for 2T oil and if all is working properly it will deliver oil as long as you keep oil in there.
You shouldn't have gas and/or oil accumulating in the crankcase. You may be flooding the engine. See if you can get the puddle out of the crankcase. Maybe a syringe and a piece of tubing to draw it out.
The rings should be alright in either spot unless you see any markings or differences in the two.
You can use a sealant like Permatex Ultra Grey, Motoseal, ThreeBond, on gaskets if you wish but it's prob not necessary.
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Post by Fox on Apr 6, 2015 10:42:23 GMT -5
Sounds like a bad oil pump. It's letting the oil leech right past itself when the engine is off so it's filling up the case and causing the non-starting. Fouling the plug. That's probably what was clogging the original exhaust... A big slug of tar in there. Anyway, you can negate the oil pump and pre-mix the gas/oil yourself in a gas can. Just drain the oil tank and remove the pump. You can leave the lines in there in case you ever wanna buy a new pump but you should plug them off.
When I was pre-mixin' I used 3.5 - 4 oz. per gallon.
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Post by lonewolfncubs on Apr 8, 2015 20:35:07 GMT -5
Ok well I drained the oil from the crankcase, I can see to the bottom of the case now (under the crankshaft), as usual I was unable to get her to start
I did order a new ignition coil just to make sure that's not the problem
now I'm curious to know, if I pick up one of those compression test what is the ideal range that's consider "good" compression? I thought with new head new piston and new rings, I mentally ruled out compression but now since it's been a nightmare to get on, I'm wondering if that having to start the engine for three to four minutes to get it starting means it's might be building compression
I did remove the part that's between the carb and the case of the motor (I think that's suppose to be valves), I didn't see anything that was wrong with that.
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Post by lonewolfncubs on Apr 8, 2015 21:12:39 GMT -5
Also, just assuming the oil pump is bad, wouldn't the scoot turn right on with just gas? Not saying to drive it around with no two stroke oil, just the simple logic of if the scooter turned on instantly with just gas?
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Post by 90GTVert on Apr 8, 2015 21:34:51 GMT -5
If you have spark then ignition components aren't the place to look.
Not sure about these particular engines, but you wanna see at least 100psi if you expect it to run. More like 150psi would be ideal.
It should start with no oil. Not good for it, but it should start.
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Post by Fox on Apr 8, 2015 21:38:29 GMT -5
I think you want at least 100psi but 120+ is better. It should fire up with just gas. Did you clean the plug?
FYI The crank seals are also a possible air/vacuum leak.
LOL Me and Brent musta been typing at the same time.
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Post by lonewolfncubs on Apr 19, 2015 21:37:49 GMT -5
Been working a lot of hours, sorry for the delay Bought a new peace sport 50 for the time being till I figure out this scoot. Just purchased a compression test from harbor freight $20 And unless there is something I'm doing wrong, the test doesn't even go beyond 30psi so clearly something us wrong. You said crankshaft seal can be a cause of compression? Is there anything else I should be looking for that can contribute to compression problem?
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Post by 90GTVert on Apr 20, 2015 7:07:57 GMT -5
Crank seals leaking shouldn't really change compression. They create an air/vacuum leak and can cause a lean condition.
When looking for the source of a compression loss you should be focused on the top end. Piston and rings, head sealing (plug and head gasket), and cylinder bore. Also make sure the tester itself is sealing well in the plug hole when you do the test.
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Post by lonewolfncubs on Apr 20, 2015 10:09:05 GMT -5
Thank you always a big help
I did make sure compression test was tightly screwed into plug hole and all other parts of the tester tightly screwed into that as well.....
I am about to remove head and piston and install old head and piston that came with the scooter and retest compression to make sure any of the new parts installed are faulty
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