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Post by spaz12 on Mar 5, 2016 1:17:19 GMT -5
Damn bruh, you're short! Oh, you also spelled tire and center wrong.  |
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Post by Raizer on Mar 5, 2016 1:22:30 GMT -5
Haha that's my son, he wants to try to ride my scoot around the lawn, but I can just see him flipping it backwards as soon as the clutch engaged, he's too light to hold the front down! Well I bet you spell aluminium and colour wrong  |
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Post by spaz12 on Mar 5, 2016 1:26:25 GMT -5
I figured that was your kid. We might spell those wrong but at least we drive on the right side of the road  |
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Post by tsimi on Mar 5, 2016 2:55:34 GMT -5
That LED bar is very bright and might be what I need. Did you post a link to it already in this thread?
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Post by Raizer on Mar 5, 2016 3:11:14 GMT -5
tsimi it's the 30° variant from here s.aliexpress.com/V7f6rYbyPrice seems to have gone up a few $ since I got mine, still dirt cheap though! And I used one of these bridge rectifiers to convert the AC lighting circuit to DC s.aliexpress.com/26Z3UvMRAlong with a 35v 470uF cap to smooth out the DC.
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Post by tsimi on Mar 5, 2016 7:38:41 GMT -5
Thanks Raizer but I suck big time when it comes to wiring on a scooter and LED stuff. Where?, how? to install those parts you mentioned? Do you have a tutorial of some sort? |
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Post by Raizer on Mar 5, 2016 8:54:20 GMT -5
tsimi it's really super simple once you get into it, the hardest part IMO is tracing and tapping into the highbeam wire, you should be able to find the high beam wiring easily enough, I don't know Jogs but on Suzukis you can take the headlight out in seconds by undoing 1 screw. The bridge rectifier has 4 terminals 2 AC and 2 DC. 1 AC terminal needs an AC input from your wiring. 1 AC terminal gets earthed to the frame. DC+ goes to the red wire of the LED. DC- goes to the black wire of the LED. The capacitor goes between the 2 DC terminals, it's just there to absorb any fluctuations/pulses to protect the LED I think.  A fuse in there somewhere would most likely be a good idea too. Then if you want to get fancy you can start thinking of relays, switches and indicator lights (but you will know when these lights are on!!) I need to try to make a new enricher tube thing to replace the one I snapped in my carb, my cold start SUCKS without the enricher! Doesn't look like they were made with replacement in mind either. Pretty much have to hold my hand over the airbox inlet to start it cold, and my crap battery doesn't have the guts to spin the engine fast enough for long enough so I've got to jump start it. Once it catches it fires right up and runs like a champ and once warmed up it will start straight up even after being off for hours. Might try to set up a trickle charger out of a 12vdc wall plug I've got here to leave plugged in at night too.
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Post by Jwhood on Mar 5, 2016 21:22:52 GMT -5
tsimi it's really super simple once you get into it, the hardest part IMO is tracing and tapping into the highbeam wire, you should be able to find the high beam wiring easily enough, I don't know Jogs but on Suzukis you can take the headlight out in seconds by undoing 1 screw. The bridge rectifier has 4 terminals 2 AC and 2 DC. 1 AC terminal needs an AC input from your wiring. 1 AC terminal gets earthed to the frame. DC+ goes to the red wire of the LED. DC- goes to the black wire of the LED. The capacitor goes between the 2 DC terminals, it's just there to absorb any fluctuations/pulses to protect the LED I think. A fuse in there somewhere would most likely be a good idea too. Then if you want to get fancy you can start thinking of relays, switches and indicator lights (but you will know when these lights are on!!) I need to try to make a new enricher tube thing to replace the one I snapped in my carb, my cold start SUCKS without the enricher! Doesn't look like they were made with replacement in mind either. Pretty much have to hold my hand over the airbox inlet to start it cold, and my crap battery doesn't have the guts to spin the engine fast enough for long enough so I've got to jump start it. Once it catches it fires right up and runs like a champ and once warmed up it will start straight up even after being off for hours. Might try to set up a trickle charger out of a 12vdc wall plug I've got here to leave plugged in at night too. Raz could I put these on each light switching over to led lights I just bought 3,one for taillight 2 for each front blinker and 1 for main led 30 deg spot light,I'm going to use 1 at each connection |
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Post by Raizer on Mar 5, 2016 22:12:17 GMT -5
Raz could I put these on each light switching over to led lights I just bought 3,one for taillight 2 for each front blinker and 1 for main led 30 deg spot light,I'm going to use 1 at each connection I don't see any reason why you couldn't. Although since the LEDs draw such a low amount of power I'd almost consider running the blinker circuit off a key switched DC source rather than muck around with converting AC to DC. It'd be as simple as tracing back to where the power is supplied to the blinker circuit (either preswitch or preflasher unit) and swapping the wire there. I'd possibly swap the tail light too, in my experience the brake light should already be DC powered from factory. |
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Post by tsimi on Mar 5, 2016 22:16:33 GMT -5
RaizerSorry to bother with something off-topic like that but this whole AC or DC stuff is confusing. So my Jog is running on DC, I think. Don't know if that matters but I can start my Scooter even if battery is empty. So all the lights on my Jog run on DC? Or are the headlights running always on AC? If my headlight would be running on DC then I could theoretically connect the LED directly without converter or anything like that, right?
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Post by Raizer on Mar 6, 2016 0:31:28 GMT -5
tsimi no bother at all! I'm 99% sure your Jog has an AC ignition system, it should kick start even without a battery in it. Your CDI, headlight, indicators ("blinkers"), gauge light, tail light and carb enricher should all be AC powered. The starter, horn, fuel gauge, oil light, brake light and under seat light if it's got one will be DC. I found a rough wiring diagram for the CV50 Jog, your AC circuit should be fed by a yellow/white wire from the regulator/rectifier and if I'm reading it correctly after the high/low beam switch the wires will be a yellow wire for high beam and green for low. My Suzuki has a DC ignition/CDI, no battery = no go! Got given these today by a guy on my car club board, he's fitting a later variant of my engine to an old school Suzuki FS50.  Facelift tanks and seat bucket, moves the petrol filler to under the seat so I can bolt a helmet/luggage box to the carrier and still be able to put petrol in! Also my seat bucket has a couple big cracks and a torn out seal, so hopefully this one won't fill with water if I ride in the rain! Should have them later in the week. Also learned that the enrichment tube I snapped is a press fit job and just taps out from the bottom -or at least it is on the Keihin and a Mikuni carbs I played with to see if I could remove them, haven't tried on the Dellorto. So fingers crossed I'll be able to make up a new tube easily on a lathe.
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Post by tsimi on Mar 6, 2016 0:51:02 GMT -5
Oh man, if you could share that diagram that would be awesome. I have trouble to find a decent CV50 service manual or diagram.
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Post by Raizer on Mar 6, 2016 1:00:00 GMT -5
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Post by Raizer on Mar 10, 2016 23:42:54 GMT -5
Have got a pile of larger jets on the way for this now, I think the 108 is a bit lean. My battery has JUST enough grunt to crank the engine long enough with my hand blocking the airbox inlet to get enough fuel into the engine for it to start first or second kick haha. Need to find a proper battery the same size/ a bit bigger than this POS  Also had a little package arrive from China today  Replacement CHT display, seems to work well so far! But they sent a white one, so I popped the dead one out of the black housing and epoxied the screen in to water proof the screen.  The black one has a darker filter over the LED display than the white one, so I used the dark filter  It's no where near as bright as with the white filter, it's about perfect! It is a lot greener in person than in the pic! So now I really need to figure out mounting it! |
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Post by Raizer on Mar 12, 2016 0:04:02 GMT -5
Had new plates for my center stand water cut and welded on  Not bad for a box of beer! Quick blast with some black paint  Still trying to sort out mounting the CHT display, have got a couple of ideas just need to try to find the bits to do it. |
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