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Post by ermaganish1995 on Nov 3, 2015 6:58:16 GMT -5
Method # 3 here requires hardly any tools to remove valves : 49ccscoot.proboards.com/thread/11800/remove-install-valves-different-waysAFAIK there are only 2 kinds of rockers so if you have one kind, the other kind should be what you need. You could miss out on a little power with the standard head. It depends. Sometimes the aftermarket combustion chambers are so large that compression drops enough to negate any gains from flow. The combustion chamer is 47mm so is the bore (47mm), the exhaust and intake ports on the upgraded head is 19mm, meanwhile the stock is only 17mm, So i supose, if the stock head has 64mm valves, its safe to say its 69mm valves on the other one right?I just measured both to be sure, Sure thing,the new head has 69mm valves, My original has 64mm.. And no moped online store has 69mm.. and a moped shop was gonna look over if they can get 69mm rocker arms.. tho what would be the fastest and best way to get the rocker arms for 69mm? I need them really soon, I could always buy from aliexpress, tho like 30usd for shipping for 3-7 days kinda feel abit eh... :/
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Post by 90GTVert on Nov 3, 2015 8:25:30 GMT -5
PFS has both sets of rockers. 69mm are part # 151-247.
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Post by ermaganish1995 on Nov 6, 2015 21:21:00 GMT -5
So I got some of the rocker arms and some other goodies comming in as a A9 camshaft,some main jets and slow jet tuning kit, Would like 40/42 for slowjet be good start? Aslong with mainjet somewhere between 90-100 ?
Also, How much RPM should I " limit " myself for the engine with the 72cc kit and or original 50cc? I've been at very few times where I've reved about 10 000rpm breifly, I doubt its any good and i doubt the engine gets lubricated properly at that RPM; I have no idea how to get a CDI with adjustable Rev limitor.. I got one of them " motoforce rev limiters " but it doesnt work, I tried on the CDI pulse wire as per insrtucted, tho didnt work for my application, so sucks.
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Post by niz76 on Nov 6, 2015 23:10:05 GMT -5
I've never had to change an idle jet- "slow jet" due to installing a BBK... You can limit your RPM by tuning the CVT with heavier weights...
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Post by katastroff on Nov 7, 2015 4:33:43 GMT -5
Iwould not trust any engine parts coming off CrappyExpress.
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Post by ermaganish1995 on Nov 7, 2015 8:33:43 GMT -5
Iwould not trust any engine parts coming off CrappyExpress. Some of the things on Aliexpress is actually rather good, but it all depends, some sellers are cunts and rip you off, ebay is best cause you can get your money back from crap items but on aliexpress... havefun xD
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Post by ermaganish1995 on Nov 7, 2015 9:48:52 GMT -5
So, when looking at my engine.. i kinda noticed this; the bushings for the bolts, at the front and at the shock is kinda dry cracked and such, would this be hard to change by one self? or would one need a press and such to remove and install the bushings...
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Post by 90GTVert on Nov 8, 2015 7:49:41 GMT -5
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Post by ermaganish1995 on Nov 8, 2015 16:41:36 GMT -5
Seems like I could just cut out the rubber part and such, cause on my engine i dont have any " stop " for the bushing from what i can see.. Tho.. i wounder, the bushings are sliiightly dry rotted on the inside, should i change them out or should i not worry about it? was thinking when i got the engine out it might be a grant idea or something.
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Post by 90GTVert on Nov 8, 2015 21:11:08 GMT -5
They probably don't have to be changed immediately, but it's not a bad idea either. You may be able to do it with a nut/bolt/washer/socket sorta like this if all goes well. www.youtube.com/watch?v=lt7GCyDsVpo
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Post by thatcrazyguy on Nov 9, 2015 9:43:15 GMT -5
They probably don't have to be changed immediately, but it's not a bad idea either. You may be able to do it with a nut/bolt/washer/socket sorta like this if all goes well. www.youtube.com/watch?v=lt7GCyDsVpoThis is what I did to get my bushings out, still tricky and a pain in the ass, but it works!
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Post by ermaganish1995 on Nov 9, 2015 17:46:13 GMT -5
They probably don't have to be changed immediately, but it's not a bad idea either. You may be able to do it with a nut/bolt/washer/socket sorta like this if all goes well. www.youtube.com/watch?v=lt7GCyDsVpoThanks for the video, I did not see this in time, I actually used this kind of method to take out the bushing from my bike, I used a socket on one side to " accept " the bushing so it would slide out easily, Didnt take much force, i didnt have an long enough M10 bolt, so i had to use a M8 one, which kinda got ruined but I supose its cheaper then to pay 100$ for some scooter shop to do that simple job. Ah I love this scoot forum, Its filled with such nice people and very well-educated scoot people haha cheers
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Post by ermaganish1995 on Nov 10, 2015 18:59:25 GMT -5
By the way, when installing the bushings, should i put something like either grease or maybe copper paste to ease future removings? or should i just clean up the hole + bushing with a wirewheel on my demel along with shrinking the bushing and heating the case?
Nevermind I just put some copper paste, a very thin layer so i dont get any problems with the bushings rusting or such
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Post by ermaganish1995 on Nov 15, 2015 20:32:22 GMT -5
So when checking the " Koso " Variator I've got (which is brand new) it doesnt " spin " easily on the variator bushing as the " OEM quality " ones do, is this normal or should i avoid using that variator?
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Post by 90GTVert on Nov 16, 2015 12:40:11 GMT -5
We've had some members reporting trouble with that variator failing prematurely. You may be able to use it, but I would at least check the bushing and the boss to make sure there are no burrs or anything that could cause resistance.
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