|
|
Post by ermaganish1995 on Nov 19, 2015 6:52:45 GMT -5
We've had some members reporting trouble with that variator failing prematurely. You may be able to use it, but I would at least check the bushing and the boss to make sure there are no burrs or anything that could cause resistance. I felt a small " score " where the drive boss would ride in, i supose that's the culprit; Oh well,i'll have to see about it all. Edit; Nevermind about previous message that I typed, I orderd a bearing off china and hope for it to arrive quickly. Also 90Gtvert, wounder... In the video about 69mm vs 64mm valves, you could theoretically use 64mm arms with 69mm valves, but the only problem was the angle the " arms " where at tho my problem is.. I cant even get the camshaft holder down , Absolutely zero play, and i got about 1 mm between the camshaft holder and the " head " if so to say, And im not sure if I order a 69mm arms if this is gonna solve it or not.. ugh so tired of it all haha. |
|
|
|
Post by 90GTVert on Nov 19, 2015 10:05:33 GMT -5
If you've got the cam chain tensioner installed, try removing it and seeing if that helps you install the rocker assembly. Make sure the cam sits in the head alright. Make sure the cam fits in the rocker assembly alright.
|
|
|
|
Post by ermaganish1995 on Nov 19, 2015 14:06:37 GMT -5
If you've got the cam chain tensioner installed, try removing it and seeing if that helps you install the rocker assembly. Make sure the cam sits in the head alright. Make sure the cam fits in the rocker assembly alright. The tentioner is outside of the engine, So no chain tention at all.. It's just that the arms are " pressing " against the valves, So even if I try to install install the rocker assembly correctly It'll press against the vavles, I orderd a set of 69mm valves of CrapExpress in hopes that might get me out of a pinch for a while or just to see if it works, In worst cases I'll use the original head the bbk i have installed, tho i'd rather fancy a valve head that actually has bigger holes for intake and exhuast, Oh well. Or I'll have to buy a valve head with 64mm valves just to be on the good side |
|
|
|
Post by ermaganish1995 on Nov 23, 2015 19:36:04 GMT -5
Currently I'm waiting for the 69mm rocker arms to check how that'll fit together with the 69mm valve head,
In the meantime,
I bought a " performance camshaft " which were suposed to be brand new.. but one of the bearings is worn right out or its been installed inproperly so it makes quite alot of noise and feels " gritty ", So I wounder, Would it be work to replace the bearings? , The camshaft cost me about 15€, and new bearing for the one that is broken is about 4€ ( Tho is this something that has been done here before? I think the bearings should be replacable right?
|
|
|
|
Post by 90GTVert on Nov 23, 2015 22:10:21 GMT -5
The bearing opposite the cam gear may not be too bad to replace. The other is behind the cam gear so that would have to be pressed off first to get to it. You'd have to be very careful not to change the timing when the cam gear is pressed back on.
|
|
|
|
Post by ermaganish1995 on Nov 24, 2015 8:13:57 GMT -5
The bearing opposite the cam gear may not be too bad to replace. The other is behind the cam gear so that would have to be pressed off first to get to it. You'd have to be very careful not to change the timing when the cam gear is pressed back on. Ah, alright, got it, The bearing by the gears is the one i need to replace, i always thoght there was a " key " or like a slot that makes sure the timing stays true, but then now it feels like its almost not worth it incase i mess up the timing, can be quite hard i'd imagine to get it spot on and such. |
|
|
|
Post by ermaganish1995 on Nov 24, 2015 12:53:14 GMT -5
Now I took thbe the original camshaft out to check, the bearing close to the gear is also slightly loose-ish, i supose this might be so that the bearing has abit less strict clearances? cause the other bearing furthest away from the gear is also "firm ".. this is confusing  |
|
|
|
Post by 90GTVert on Nov 24, 2015 14:15:57 GMT -5
Even if a different clearance were intended, it shouldn't feel gritty.
|
|
|
|
Post by ermaganish1995 on Nov 24, 2015 15:21:23 GMT -5
Even if a different clearance were intended, it shouldn't feel gritty. Well, So much for that bearing, I managed to bend it even with proper supports on my friends press, Oh well, I mean,, 15€ isnt too big of a loss, still sucks that the camshaft didnt have any quality check from the factory, i supose thats why a naraku camshaft is about 40€ more for " similar " gains |
|
|
|
Post by ermaganish1995 on Nov 30, 2015 13:51:35 GMT -5
Hey, 90GTVert, I remember in your video where you replaced the gearbox bearings in a 139qmb, you spesified that you suggested to use quality replacement bearings, Unfortunently the bearings etc for my scooter is about 70€ in total, excluding the seals and such, And the for a cheaper ammount (20€) i could get some not-known chianeese bearings with rather good quality, Since I dont really commute far distances and such, i should be all set with using cheaper bearings right? Also.. the oddball bearing, the honda bearing that you used, where did you buy that one? cause apperantly i can't seem to find it anywhere. Also as for gearbox seals, is it absolutely nesseary to replace the seals if i were to use new bearings?  |
|
|
|
Post by 90GTVert on Nov 30, 2015 16:29:43 GMT -5
Kinda backwards... If your seals will still seal, no, it's not absolutely necessary to replace them. I'd pop them out when using heat if you go that route. That way you don't risk overheating them and making them brittle with a torch or heat gun (done that before  ). I ordered the Honda bearing from Honda. If you search the number given, you should find Honda parts houses that carry them or be able to walk into a Honda moto dealer and be able to get it ordered at least. I'm not a bearing expert. You don't have to buy any crazy expensive bearings. I've used Chinese bearings in the past for some things, but I try to keep them out of critical areas (like the engine internals and gearbox or front wheel). I'd think among the various brands, you could find something cheaper than 70. SKF, FAG, NTN, Koyo, or even Nachi. Again, I'm not a bearing pro, but those should at least be made in factories likely to have better quality control than any old Chinese bearing. What you're looking at may be alright. I'm quite sure the budget scoot manufacturers aren't sourcing high quality bearings and they often last for a long time. |
|
|
|
Post by ermaganish1995 on Nov 30, 2015 17:43:49 GMT -5
Kinda backwards... If your seals will still seal, no, it's not absolutely necessary to replace them. I'd pop them out when using heat if you go that route. That way you don't risk overheating them and making them brittle with a torch or heat gun (done that before ). I ordered the Honda bearing from Honda. If you search the number given, you should find Honda parts houses that carry them or be able to walk into a Honda moto dealer and be able to get it ordered at least. I'm not a bearing expert. You don't have to buy any crazy expensive bearings. I've used Chinese bearings in the past for some things, but I try to keep them out of critical areas (like the engine internals and gearbox or front wheel). I'd think among the various brands, you could find something cheaper than 70. SKF, FAG, NTN, Koyo, or even Nachi. Again, I'm not a bearing pro, but those should at least be made in factories likely to have better quality control than any old Chinese bearing. What you're looking at may be alright. I'm quite sure the budget scoot manufacturers aren't sourcing high quality bearings and they often last for a long time. I managed to find some nachi bearings from a ebay seller in turkey.. kinda feels like they might be fake nachi bearings but who knows; They all added up to about 25€ total, which was rather good, that is excluding the honda bearing, That 70€ figure was when i went to local " bearing stores" one of them offers SKF, which added up about 70€, the other place added up about 80€, i think they used primarily FAG, so other places that have bearings are no-names ones, but they do seem to have rather good feel to them, with atleast the bearings i installed in a spare front-wheel i had; the original china front wheel bearings feels crusty and im gonna replace them whenever i get the chanse; I supose the bearings (excluding the honda one) seems like a good deal for about 25€ for the nachi ones? Also about the bearings, I dont hear any mis-noises or such, but feel like coming up to 5000 miles soon feels like it might be time to change them soon ish, I guess i can take a look when replacing the gear oil, good time as any i suppose to check it out; I guess my scoot wasnt made in too much of a budget area if so to say, since i had the " roller pins " in my torque driver, Thats why I figured to replace the bearings, I manatged to install and remove th needle bearing without any problems since it seemed like it was rather other, the other bearing was making lots of noises when spinning tho; so i replaced that. Funny thing is the bearing i used was only 2€, but i guess i have to take a look at it from time to time to check if the bearing is okay, cause the other bearing shops, that had the SKF, was about 16€ for just the 6901 2rs bearing, concidering a whole new rear assembly with torque sheeves etc etc, is only 25€ then it feels stupid to use high-quality bearings that costs so much, but that's just me tho, trying to get stuff cheaply haha |
|
|
|
Post by 90GTVert on Nov 30, 2015 20:53:46 GMT -5
Sounds like a good price. I forgot to post it then, but check VXB bearings if you are looking for a group of bearings in the future. They may not ship to or be expensive to other countries. Not sure, but they are a decent source of affordable bearings in the US.
|
|
|
|
Post by ermaganish1995 on Dec 1, 2015 19:27:33 GMT -5
Sounds like a good price. I forgot to post it then, but check VXB bearings if you are looking for a group of bearings in the future. They may not ship to or be expensive to other countries. Not sure, but they are a decent source of affordable bearings in the US. Hmm, I checked them out, tho the shipping internationally seemed to be abit high, Tho I managed to get in contact with a friend who works with lots of bearings etc, He managed to give me all except the honda bearing for free! they're 2RS bearings so i have to take out the seals but i supose that's okay, tho, if one has a 2rs bearing, would it be okay to use it in a gearbox, or should one remove the seals and grease? Also is " C3 " okay to use for bearing? I've heard they're supposed to be in engines cause of the " looser clearence a engine needs " tho not sure about the gearbox tho |
|
|
|
Post by 90GTVert on Dec 1, 2015 21:48:36 GMT -5
I've always removed the seals on rubber or metal sealed bearings and cleaned the grease out if that's all I could find or they were significantly cheaper.
I've always stuck with standard (usually unmarked, CN, between C2 and C3 somewhere) in the gearbox. The C3 should work, but I haven't tried any in there to tell you how much difference it would make.
|
|
).